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From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?

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    Related outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/6029/2766 – user2766 Nov 3 '14 at 15:45
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    Climbing grades are amorphous things. Different people's ratings of the same climb could differ by as much as .5 on the YDS. Even if people agree on a grade, there are many different reasons that a particular climb could have a certain level of difficulty. Different types of climbs are qualitatively different. – Ben Crowell Nov 3 '14 at 16:30
  • @BenCrowell: Yeah, you are right. Difficulties and grades are always something blurry. The campus boards etc. are always described as intermediate|advanced training tools. I try to find the period when you should start to use these tools. – Jon Nov 3 '14 at 19:23
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As the comments have mentioned, grades vary somewhat between gyms, but I think you can still provide some rough guidelines.

  • Peg boards can probably be done by anyone at any climbing level. You're not stressing your fingers really, so there's little chance of injury. It's essentially like practicing pull-ups. It probably won't help your climbing too much (except for lock-off moves).

  • You should be at least a solid V4-5 climber to start hangboarding. You should be able to do crimpy climbs at that grade range, since that is basically what hangboarding is. If you can hold onto a hangboard grip >15 seconds, you're probably not stressing your fingers too much (thus, relatively safe). But make sure to take it easy at first and stop at the first sign of pain. Also, make sure to take at least a day off between hangboard workouts.

    For hangboarding, you could start even earlier if you wear a harness and attach a weight on the other side of a pulley system to take weight off your fingers.

  • Campusing is more intense on fingers than hangboarding, so you should probably be a solid V6 climber to start. Again, you should be able to do crimpy climbs rated V6+.

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    Peg boards are not just for climbing up. You can set the pegs into a configuration that allows you to do laps around them. This helps train the lateral muscles used in reaching sideways that's hard to do on anything else. I also use them as ever widening pull ups, x pull ups close together, move apart, repeat, move apart again, etc. – user2766 Nov 4 '14 at 10:20

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