Bolt Conditions at the New River Gorge

Question

I am getting back into sport climbing and I am planning a trip to the NRG.

I get very nervous about safety issues in regards to climbing, almost to the point where I don't want to start again. One thing that makes me most nervous is bolt and anchor quality.

I was wondering what are the general quality of the bolts at NRG? I know there have been significant rebolting efforts in the last five years, are there old bolts left?

Should I only assume the bolts will be good on more popular routes and walls?

Are there any places to avoid?

Answer 1

Generally you should be able to assess the quality of each anchor you're going to use by your self. Please read the article "Bolts: Check Your Safety!".

Snippet:

Make a constant effort to maintain awareness while climbing. When you get to a bolt, even if it has a fixed draw, as you clip the rope: Check your safety! It only takes a casual split second glance. Is the rope end carabiner sharp? Is the sling/dogbone new or is it faded and frayed? Is the bolt end carabiner grooved and ready to break? Does the bolt look safe and shiny or more like a Titanic relic?

It only takes a second to survey the scene and a further second to decide whether to back down or engage the next sequence. Make it part of your routine, like checking your knot, and soon enough it will become almost mindless allowing you to maintain focus on the climbing at hand. It's always your judgment call and only you are responsible for your own safety. Do not clip fixed gear blindly.

Additionally I recommend to check the route if it is possible to place additional protection (nuts, friends). If I climb routes I don't know and can't overview from the bottom, I always carry a trad rack (at least some nuts) to be prepared.