I was just looking at an article about an expedition on Eiger.

I came across this picture.

enter image description here

Is this setup right?

For more info on the expedition: http://www.markseaton.com/stories/eiger.htm
Kudos to the team :)

  • 1
    Being the second UK guided team to climb the eiger NF is actually a thing? :P I know quite a few "unguided" teams who made the ascent... Still kudos from me too, 3 bivis on this mountain is far from comfortable.
    – imsodin
    Nov 6 '15 at 13:27
  • 1
    You have also got to ask yourself, did they have any choice. A crappy anchor is better than no anchor sometimes
    – user2766
    Nov 6 '15 at 13:56
  • 1
    you have got to ask yourself about the use of wire biners on the wires. They obviously have screwgates, if your going to cross load something better to cross load a screwgate than a wire biner.
    – user2766
    Nov 6 '15 at 13:57
  • 1
    This is a keyhole view of both the anchor and the situation. We don't know what's outside the frame of the picture. We don't know what happened before or after this in time. We can't tell what the three lockers are being used for. We can't tell whether this anchor is being used for hanging packs off of or for a belay. We don't know if the person who built this had all this gear available, or if they were almost out of gear, and then the rest of the team then showed up and handed the leader a bunch of lockers, etc.
    – user2169
    Nov 7 '15 at 0:19
  • 3
    Not sure if this is a serious question but you might enjoy this websites collection of terrible anchors Nov 10 '15 at 16:44

I couldn't have come up with a better example of "how carabiners should never be used" if I tried!

In fact, the most likely explanation for that picture is either such a deliberate bad example, or a joke.

A quite likely incomplete list:

  • Use of non-locking carabiners in an anchor - rightmost arrow shows a nut wire just waiting to slip through a wire gate
  • cross-loading, so much cross-loading! The middle arrow shows the most egregious instance - crossloading straight across a wire gate. That drastically reduces the strength.
  • metal on metal in a veritable daisy chain pattern (at the bottom there is a carabiner clipped into a carabiner, which itself is clipped into two other carabiners. This stuff can too easily lever itself open (or broken).
  • The whole thing is a complete mess, visually as well as technically, increasing the chance for anyone who adds or removes equipment to do make dangerous mistakes.
  • The sling going to the left (left arrow) indicates that the thing is loaded sideways as well as downwards - paving the way for those nuts to wiggle themselves loose.
  • One of the screwgate carabiners isn't locked. From the picture it can't be seen whether it actually serves any (critical) purpose, but if in doubt it should be closed properly.
  • 6
    I agree but it may be more helpful to describe what is wrong with the set up so people can learn.
    – DQdlM
    Nov 6 '15 at 16:22
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    I added the fact that one of the lockers isn't actually locked. I hope you agree with the edit!
    – anderas
    Nov 11 '15 at 9:59

If it is load bearing, then hell no. This is a mess of cross- and ring-loading, which will break the biners.
If it is just a material storage placement, then it is simply confusing. And of what I know about the Eiger, when you find a good placement, you will never ever only use it for hanging up your gear, always for protection.
So all in all more information about the context would be needed to make a definitive answer, but I cannot imagine why this should be legit.

Edit: Unfortunately the pictures in the link given in the question are probably not in chronological order, so there is no information extractable about when or where this photo was taken.

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