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Questions tagged [carabiners]

Questions on the selection and use of carabiners, either as part of a safety system or simply to attach gear. Also spelt "karabiner".

8
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4answers
4k views

Titanium Carabiner: what is its ideal use case?

I have the specs of a pretty interesting carabiner. It's made from titanium, it's lightweight and strong. These seem to be great attributes, but there are two caveats. It is pretty expensive ($50). ...
6
votes
2answers
179 views

What's the proper way to establish a triaxial connection with carabiners?

I love free climbing but have never climbed with ropes. While reading through this question, I realized I would never have thought of these scenarios, but due to the answers on that post, the physics ...
9
votes
4answers
434 views

Is there any evidence that attaching a biner to both seat and leg loops results in a 3-way load?

It is commonly known that loading your carabiner in three directions is bad, as it reduces it's strength. This is apparent when talking about belay stations, as e.g. described in this blog post by the ...
5
votes
1answer
205 views

Why are large/pear shaped locking carabiners called HMS carabiners?

Carabiners like this one, Image Source are called HMS carabiners. Why are they called that and what does HMS stand for?
10
votes
1answer
659 views

What is a nose-hooked carabiner and why is it dangerous?

In rock climbing a carabiner can get nose-hooked and it is a very dangerous situation. What exactly is a nose-hooked carabiner and why is it dangerous?
12
votes
1answer
810 views

What are opposite and opposed carabiners?

It is often said that when using two carabiners at the same point, such as an anchor, they should be opposite and opposed. What exactly does this mean?
6
votes
1answer
647 views

How do you set up a z-pulley?

A z-pulley or z-drag is a way of gaining leverage to pull a rope tight or to pull an object or person closer to the anchor. It is commonly used to tighten Tyrolean traverses, recover pinned boats in ...
13
votes
2answers
732 views

Why are carabiners so much weaker if the gate is open?

Carabiners like this, are marked with the force rating. The one in this picture is rated, 20kn the long way 8kn the short way 5kn with the gate open Why are carabiners so much weaker when the gate ...
9
votes
2answers
353 views

Can I re-use a via ferrata carabiner/harness for climbing?

I just started climbing and I am wondering if it's safe to use my body harness and the 2 carabiners from via ferrata kit - they are 25|10|8KN resistant - for climbing too.
4
votes
3answers
331 views

A method to retrieve a carabiner

I saw this a few times, years ago I met some guys who were top roping next to us in Jackson Falls, IL 25 years ago who showed us a method of retrieving your top carabiner(s) when you were done top ...
3
votes
1answer
523 views

Using Gri Gri 2's Carabiner with Another Belay Device?

I've been using an AustriAlpin autolock carabiner with my Gri Gri 2 for around 9 months, a few times a week (1 to 3 times). It's a very solid, robust and big carabiner, which means that's not too ...
4
votes
2answers
254 views

How does a carabiner handle make sense?

There are a few camping mugs with a carabiner handle. I wonder how it makes sense? I mean wouldn't it be more flexible to just take a separate carabiner with you? You would be able to use it for ...
11
votes
4answers
4k views

Uses for different size locking carabiners

What are the advantages/disadvantages and typical use cases for different sizes of locking carabiners? For example, a Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate vs a Mini Pearabiner Screwgate (or the ...
23
votes
9answers
5k views

What are creative uses for retired carabiners?

I seem to have accumulated a good number of carabiners that, while probably still safe, I won't climb on anymore. They might be worn, of questionable origin, or just plain made obsolete by an upgrade. ...
16
votes
3answers
4k views

Safe way to mark a carabiner gate?

At the crag this weekend I noticed that my climbing partner's carabiner had a great feature: a red line painted such that you know the carabiner isn't locked until the red is hidden. I love this ...
11
votes
2answers
3k views

Preventing cross-loading on belay carabiners

It happend to me a couple of times now that I've cross-loaded my carabiner when belaying; the frequent change from slack to tension and back, moving the carabiner up and down and all that, can easily ...
33
votes
2answers
20k views

What does it mean to cross load a carabiner?

What does it mean to cross load a carabiner? I know it's bad, and not to do it, but I don't really know what exactly it is.
8
votes
1answer
416 views

How do I choose a good quality carabiner?

If I was looking to purchase some carabiners, what sort of things should I look out for to ensure they're good quality? I'm not planning on using them for climbing, more in the way of general use so ...
23
votes
3answers
1k views

Are carabiners useful tools to have in the wilderness? If so, what would they be used for?

Carabiners are obviously essential in certain circumstances, such as with any type of climbing / rappelling. But are they a good tool to have generally as well, and if so what might be some example ...