Questions tagged [carabiners]

Questions on the selection and use of carabiners, either as part of a safety system or simply to attach gear. Also spelt "karabiner".

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34
votes
2answers
25k views

What does it mean to cross load a carabiner?

What does it mean to cross load a carabiner? I know it's bad, and not to do it, but I don't really know what exactly it is.
24
votes
10answers
5k views

What are creative uses for retired carabiners?

I seem to have accumulated a good number of carabiners that, while probably still safe, I won't climb on anymore. They might be worn, of questionable origin, or just plain made obsolete by an upgrade. ...
5
votes
1answer
1k views

How do you set up a z-pulley?

A z-pulley or z-drag is a way of gaining leverage to pull a rope tight or to pull an object or person closer to the anchor. It is commonly used to tighten Tyrolean traverses, recover pinned boats in ...
16
votes
3answers
4k views

Safe way to mark a carabiner gate?

At the crag this weekend I noticed that my climbing partner's carabiner had a great feature: a red line painted such that you know the carabiner isn't locked until the red is hidden. I love this ...
13
votes
2answers
1k views

Why are carabiners so much weaker if the gate is open?

Carabiners like this, are marked with the force rating. The one in this picture is rated, 20kn the long way 8kn the short way 5kn with the gate open Why are carabiners so much weaker when the gate ...
12
votes
1answer
2k views

What are opposite and opposed carabiners?

It is often said that when using two carabiners at the same point, such as an anchor, they should be opposite and opposed. What exactly does this mean?
8
votes
2answers
480 views

Can I re-use a via ferrata carabiner/harness for climbing?

I just started climbing and I am wondering if it's safe to use my body harness and the 2 carabiners from via ferrata kit - they are 25|10|8KN resistant - for climbing too.
8
votes
4answers
672 views

Is there any evidence that attaching a biner to both seat and leg loops results in a 3-way load?

It is commonly known that loading your carabiner in three directions is bad, as it reduces it's strength. This is apparent when talking about belay stations, as e.g. described in this blog post by the ...