Questions tagged [climbing]

Questions relating to climbing can include any activity that requires the use of your hands and feet to move vertically up an object, obstruction or terrain. This varies from trees to boulders to cliff faces and everything in-between.

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13
votes
2answers
2k views

Is this harness defective for having the belay loop around the belt webbing instead of the tie-in loop?

I am a beginner to climbing and bought this ClimbX harness from Go Outdoors in the UK. Someone at the gym today told me it is defective because the belay loop passes through the thin piece of webbing ...
16
votes
6answers
5k views

Why is there so much emphasis on in-person professional instruction in outdoor sports?

In the month of June I am looking to take my lead climbing from indoors into the outdoors. To bridge the gap between my gym skills and whats required in the "wild", I've decided to go on ...
6
votes
1answer
410 views

Must you always have something in the master point of a belay?

When building a belay with a sling, and tying an overhand knot to create a master point, I’ve seen it stated that you must always have something in all the master point loops. I assume this is to stop ...
3
votes
1answer
111 views

Climbing rope diversion, different scenarios

I'm just getting into climbing, and I have to say I still find it hard to trust the equipment, bolts etc sometimes (even though I know accidents with that are really rare.). Anyway, I try to ...
4
votes
2answers
122 views

How to rig a haul bag so I can move it up/down while midair?

I have a fixed vertical line that can be ascended/descended. I need a bag (a bucket with tools, actually) when I'm hanging mid-air, and need to move it up/down. The bag is over 20 lbs / 10 kg so I ...
1
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0answers
31 views

Ascending/descending single climbing rope without any other gear [duplicate]

I am interested in emergency ascending/descending a climbing rope, where there is no other gear and time is of the essence. Basically, I wonder if anyone has had success with a swiss seat from a bight ...
6
votes
2answers
358 views

Why are twist-lock carabiners considered dangerous for some applications?

There are different types of locking carabiners. A screw-gate carabiner requires multiple rotations of the screw in order to lock it. A twist-lock carabiner locks automatically whenever you close it. ...
1
vote
1answer
210 views

What is causing climbing shoe toe blowouts?

I recently had two pairs of climbing shoes die in a very similar fashion: the right toe blows out, leaving a flapping piece of rubber near the bottom tip of the shoe (see photos). This is very ...
0
votes
1answer
253 views

Why are there so few face climbs above V12 on boulders?

It seems like all of the futuristic projects (V15+) we see are on overhung, cave-like features. This makes sense because being overhung automatically adds difficulty since you are working against ...
3
votes
4answers
436 views

Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?

I started climbing a year ago, at the age of 36. I really enjoy the sport and try to climb a lot. However, lately I've been thinking if it is possible to achieve anything (worthy of mention) for ...
5
votes
1answer
538 views

Belaying/rappelling with a rope thicker than allowed by belay device

I've got an 11mm static rope. Can I use it safely for top-rope belay/rappel with a belay device that is designed for "9.5 - 10.5 mm rope"?.. I actually rappelled three times with no issues ...
1
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1answer
196 views

Influence of little finger length on climbing performance

Is there any scientific study in climbing which investigates the length of the little finger compared to the middle finger in terms of climbing performance on a professional level (grade > 5.12)? ...
-1
votes
1answer
143 views

is the shoe sole based on kirigami likely to change climb ratings and rules for climbing competition?

For the source, see this article in the Smithsonian. A material based on a technique, called kirigami (a relative of the folding technique, origami) of cutting a flexible three dimensional pattern ...
7
votes
1answer
335 views

Climbing indoors: emergency situations

We should always do the partner check and tie a stopper knot, but... Lead climbing: If you are half-way up a climbing wall and see that your knot, which attaches you to the harness is loose/untied/...
-2
votes
1answer
203 views

Yosemite bowline - stopper knot?

I would like to switch to the Yosemite bowline knot. I don't want to compare the pros and cons of figure 8, double bowline and Yosemite bowline. I am interested in single-pitch climbs and gained some ...
3
votes
2answers
657 views

How to attach climbing holds / rungs to a tree trunk without harming the tree

I've got a tall tree in the backyard that we use to practice belaying / abseiling (rappelling). However, the lowest part of the trunk does not have any branches until up to 20' / 6m, so we use a lean-...
6
votes
1answer
194 views

Can a full body harness help reduce the chances of suspension trauma?

Those who are well-versed with rock-climbing (and other variants of climbing) are aware of the dangers posed by Suspension Trauma. Here at The Great Outdoors there had been a healthy discussion on ...
0
votes
3answers
394 views

Munter hitch + prusik for rope solo lead climbing

Disclaimer This is a question regarding a theoretical technique, and not a tutorial, advice or recommendation. This technique has not been tested, and might potentially be completely unsafe. Climbing ...
9
votes
2answers
244 views

How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope

How do lead climbing falls add up over time based on their fall ratings? For example, the rope I have is rated to 8 UIAA falls. A UIAA fall is a fall factor of 1.77. Lets say over the course of a ...
9
votes
2answers
3k views

Can you Rappel with an Old Climbing Rope?

I received an old climbing rope, whose history is unknown. I know this rope should not be used for any situations where a fall is possible since it may have already sustained one. However, can it be ...
5
votes
1answer
225 views

What kind of Rope for a Bosun's Chair

I'm going to make a bosun's chair to lift me 40 ft in the air to a tree platform (with at least a 6' clearance, so closer to 50'). Of course I would like the right type of rope with the right tensile ...
4
votes
1answer
207 views

Question about climbing in “A Line Across the Sky”

I've been watching "A Line Across the Sky" which is a short-ish movie about Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold doing the Fitz Roy traverse. During which Tommy Caldwell mentions Alex doing a 1000 and ...
4
votes
2answers
371 views

Are “fall-arrester” devices used in climbing/mountaineering?

I came across an interesting looking device on the Petzl website. As per the description, the mobile fall arresters follow the user automatically as he moves, whether on an inclined or vertical ...
5
votes
1answer
259 views

Why are full body harnesses uncommon in mountaineering?

In principle, it is known that full body harnesses are useful for situations where the center of gravity is higher - e.g. for children, or for Alpine situations involving carrying heavy loads. A full ...
3
votes
4answers
546 views

What knot was used by my mountain guide to tie me in to the middle of a rope?

Twice now I have been out winter hiking with a guide and another person and I'm trying to work out what knot they used to tie the middle person onto the rope. Let's say the guide is in front, my ...
3
votes
10answers
721 views

What’s the main appeal for climbing outdoors?

I am a long time gym climber, and I climbed outdoors for a couple of times. I fail to understand why climbing outdoors is more appealing than climbing indoors. If the goal is to climb harder, while ...
2
votes
2answers
233 views

Guide mode ATC with locker to belay loop

So just questioning some advice I received once: When in guide mode when belaying a second from above, is it ok to take the locking carabineer and attach it to your belay loop? The primary benefit is ...
5
votes
2answers
187 views

Where can I get little durable cases you can hang on your climbing harness?

On longer climbing sessions I like to keep my cell phone close by, but most of the time I have no backpack with me. So I would like to pack the cell phone in a little case that I can put on my ...
4
votes
0answers
163 views

Cotton climbing pants with a zipper pocket (outdoor rock climbing use for small female climbers) [closed]

the "politicised" debate of female clothing not having pockets (it is especially about skirts and dresses) left aside, I wonder if there are any cotton climbing pants left on the market that have a ...
7
votes
4answers
605 views

Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

Why do climbing professional use less than 5 fingers on some holds? From https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/ I mean, why don't they put the other fingers, even if they don't quite fit, ...
7
votes
1answer
233 views

Is there a utility / method to organize trad gear so that each piece is immediately accessible?

When preparing for a trad climb, I usually divide my rack into separate groups where each group is connected to a single carabiner. So for example all the small nuts go into carabiner 1, middle range ...
12
votes
6answers
3k views

What is the term for completing a climbing route uncleanly?

If a climber completes a route without using their protection that is called sending. What is the term if one completes the route but had to depend on the rope either for a rest or for a fall? Let's ...
6
votes
2answers
297 views

Can a Gri-Gri work if the cam is prevented from engaging?

Based on comments on this question. If the moving cam on a Gri-Gri is prevented from engaging (perhaps by a belayer firmly holding onto the device), can you still brake effectively? By "brake ...
8
votes
2answers
397 views

What are known failure modes of the auto-braking mechanism of Grigris?

Disclaimer first: The brake-hand principle (always hold the braking strand of the rope) always applies to assisted braking belay devices, including the Grigri. This question is in no way targeted at ...
12
votes
6answers
3k views

How to belay top-rope climbers who are ascending quickly?

Some of my climber friends are pretty fast climbers with a speed of about 20s for a 10m long route. The really fast ones use auto-belaying-systems seen on speed climbing competitions. Those auto-...
6
votes
2answers
987 views

What to look for in climbing shoes?

Having just completed my Boulding induction at a local rock climbing gym, what requirements should I look for in a pair of my own climbing shoes? Assume here cost is not a primary factor.
6
votes
1answer
1k views

What are the strongest knot(s) for using on FLAT webbing slings? (joining and bight termination)

I'm trying to make myself a foot-loop that's connected by rope to one's handled-ascender (alongside an opposing-foot's ankle-ascender this allows rapid ascension up a single leg up of rope!) and have ...
3
votes
1answer
276 views

Redundancy in rappel systems

What is the simplest setup for rappelling that is fully redundant? The most common system seems to be rappelling off of both strands of a rope passing through two rappel rings on separate anchors. ...
3
votes
1answer
150 views

Does a Mammut Smart Alpine belay device go well with a Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner? Any other recommendations?

Has anybody ever tried to use a cross-load protecting Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner with a Smart Alpine belay device? I do think the Smart Alpine does not go very well with the CRAG Smart HMS ...
7
votes
2answers
550 views

Transition from ascending to descending a rope

Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer: Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope ...
8
votes
3answers
1k views

“Large” eye of tie-in knot: dangerous?

There's a dispute in my climbing group whether a "large" eye of the tie-in knot can be considered dangerous. While I don't see a problem with a loop that is about 10 cm across, others argue that the ...
8
votes
1answer
116 views

What is the v-notch on top of the “Clickup” climbing belay device for?

I’m wondering does anyone know what this part of a Click Up is for: I’m taking about the rounded cutouts on each side of the device on the climber side. In the normal position I can’t see what these ...
9
votes
2answers
205 views

How do I know when it's time to replace my climbing shoes?

I've been climbing off and on for about 3 years now, but only started going regularly in the last 6 months. I've had the same pair of shoes for about 2 years now. My brother recently pointed out that ...
8
votes
2answers
3k views

What is the strongest knot using a steel-thimble to make a steel-eyelet at the end of the line?

(to be clear, I know I can just check knot-strengths for a general end-of-line attachment, it's the inclusion of the steel thimble - I'll find a link to add to end of post - it's that inclusion that ...
1
vote
1answer
452 views

Climbing-line “rope-thimbles”, unsure how to utilize these (got several 1/2" 'steel rope thimbles' with my climb-rope!)

I got some 1/2" steel-thimbles for my climbing-rope but sadly I'm not sure how to safely use them, I'd thought "I can just tie a knot at just the right spot so that the thimble is securely nested in ...
3
votes
1answer
338 views

Rappel: How do I start rappel from a ledge when using rappel extension

I'm using a rappel extension similar to what is shown in this video and that one. When the rappel start is a straight drop-off from a ledge and the anchor is low to the ground, I find it difficult to ...
1
vote
1answer
151 views

Have a couple basic Q's on climbing-line (1 on safely descending/rappelling, another on using multiple lines and/or hardware to achieve “1+1=2”?)

Hoping to ask a couple basic Q's before my order arrives, I suspect I may've gotten insufficient gear.. 1 - Is doubling-up ropes, or hardware, ever acceptable in climbing? IE, my 8mm prusik cord is ...
2
votes
0answers
185 views

What are the components of a good climbing kit for recreational tree climbing?

I've enjoyed climbing and cutting trees for many years. I now want to go to higher levels, but safety is a primary concern, because I am afraid of heights. I'm about to order gear for recreational ...
7
votes
2answers
1k views

How to heal a flapper quickly

I've noticed when climbing and bouldering I have a tendency to get occasional flappers on my palm. A flapper being a callus or blister that has peeled back and hangs on like a flap of skin. I trim the ...
8
votes
1answer
2k views

What to do with chalk when deepwater soloing?

I have been climbing for a short while and loving it. Now that I've gotten a fair bit of practice with indoor climbing I'm thinking about where this new love of mine can take me. The obvious answers ...

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