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Questions tagged [climbing]

Questions relating to climbing can include any activity that requires the use of your hands and feet to move vertically up an object, obstruction or terrain. This varies from trees to boulders to cliff faces and everything in-between.

2
votes
2answers
262 views

Internal (unseen) damage from a 40ft climbing fall [closed]

I am aware that the statistics regarding a 40ft climbing fall, which result in "decking-out" are not favorable. I survived such a fall only recently. Major injuries seem to have only been a broken &...
8
votes
5answers
283 views

When did wearing a helmet become the norm for climbing?

This is going out primarily to those who have been climbing for 20yrs + Back in the day, helmet use was optional and not particularly popular. These days, things seemed to have taken a dramatic change....
8
votes
2answers
207 views

Is there a good way to be kept up-to-date with climbing gear recalls?

In the last years, there were a few occasions when companies would put out recalls on their climbing gear due to manufacturing defects. For example, Black Diamond recalled some improperly riveted ...
3
votes
1answer
91 views

How use a nylon cordelette as an adjustable tether for rock climbing?

Sometimes when clipping in people who are rappelling, or setting up anchors in some places from above or showing people how to get onto a fixed line, I need an adjustable tether. I often carry a ...
12
votes
1answer
836 views

What is the best way to place a sling on a rock spike so that it's prevented from lifting off?

I occasionally place slings on rock spikes as trad climbing protection. If the spike is not very tall or thick the slings can become easily dislodged as the rope passes though the quickdraw/carabiner. ...
17
votes
5answers
2k views

Is clipping onto the rungs of a via ferrata bad practice?

I did my first via ferrata this weekend and noticed there were often long vertical distances separating the cable anchors. At times this length was around 10m. This meant that a fall before reaching ...
7
votes
4answers
319 views

When did indoor climbing gyms start to become popular?

I am trying to learn some history about rock climbing. I know initially rock climbing was purely an outdoor activity, and according to this article in the 1990s indoor climbing gyms started to spring ...
3
votes
1answer
166 views

Climbing outdoors makes the skin of my palm red and sensitive

I mostly climb at a rock climbing gym, and I can climb for hours until my forearms run out of gas. However, when I climb outdoors, usually the reason I have to stop is because the skin of my palms ...
6
votes
2answers
300 views

How to tape torn skin to continue climbing?

I have got this annoying issue when bouldering: a sheared callus on the small finger: I would like to tape this and continue climbing (with extra caution). I am not an expert in taping, and any tape ...
2
votes
1answer
101 views

What would make one brick wall harder than another?

Inspired mostly by this question, where a person was asking what the climbing rating of a brick wall was. Compared to all of the varied climbs in nature with the many different rock features and ...
15
votes
1answer
993 views

How fast does a climbing rope recover its dynamic properties after a fall?

The defining feature of a climbing rope (arguably) is its dynamic properties, i.e. it stops your fall gradually to decrease the peak force. Not exceeding a fixed peak force is a/the integral criterion ...
17
votes
1answer
181 views

Can I use SteriGENE broad spectrum disinfectant on abseil rope?

I work in ecologically sensitive areas in NZ and my ropes routinely get soiled. I have been asked by the Dept of Conservation to clean and disinfect my ropes to minimise the chances of accidentally ...
25
votes
4answers
6k views

What is the point of belay glasses?

I was going through the REI website for some of the products and I stumbled upon this one here. It's called Y & Y VERTICAL Classic Belay Glasses The product punchline says: Stop wrenching ...
15
votes
1answer
902 views

What extra gear to take up a multipitch climb?

When climbing single pitch routes, it makes sense to carry as little as possible while actually on the route, as almost every eventuality can be easily dealt with by simply lowering back to the ground ...
6
votes
2answers
163 views

What's the proper way to establish a triaxial connection with carabiners?

I love free climbing but have never climbed with ropes. While reading through this question, I realized I would never have thought of these scenarios, but due to the answers on that post, the physics ...
17
votes
5answers
4k views

How to instruct someone how to take off a climbing harness?

After rappelling near waterfalls, or during the rain, the harness often becomes wet and hard to remove -- particularly for inexperienced people. How can I instruct someone in how to remove the ...
19
votes
1answer
278 views

Compromised Ropes in Retail Stores

Reposting this from a Facebook discussion. It's a picture taken from a retail store where they have attached a pin-tag through the rope to prevent theft; a common practice at this location. My gut ...
2
votes
1answer
157 views

Is amsteel blue appropriate for a use as a runner? [duplicate]

Would amsteel blue rope be appropriate for use in anchor building for climbing or mountaineering? I expect it's not very abrasion resistant so it wouldn't be good up against some rock or an edge. But ...
3
votes
2answers
327 views

How to tie a super eight / double figure eight / bunny ear knot?

Note, I am not asking how to tie three different types of knots, but rather one knot that goes by three different names. Its a knot that can be useful in building anchors especially at the top of ...
1
vote
1answer
116 views

How to tie a figure eight on a bight?

One of the more common knots in climbing is the figure eight on a bight (being tied on a bight means that it is tied without using the ends. How exactly would one tie this knot?
2
votes
2answers
444 views

What are the steps in the PBUS method of belaying?

The more common way of belaying is called PBUS which stands for Pull, Under, Brake, Slide. What is the correct way to do this (including illustrations)?
1
vote
1answer
117 views

Are there ways to make the skin on my fingers last longer while climbing/bouldering? [duplicate]

My main problem when bouldering and sometimes while climbing is, that after some time the skin/flesh of my middle and lower phalanges start to hurt and the skin comes off so further climbing becomes ...
0
votes
0answers
68 views

In rock climbing what does the term “Flash” mean? [duplicate]

If someone "flashes" a climb what does this mean?
7
votes
3answers
163 views

Do climbing shoes wear out from age alone?

This article says that Running shoes only last about a year regardless of mileage. Is there a similar time frame for climbing shoes? I searched the internet and it seems that most climbers wear ...
8
votes
3answers
1k views

How to progress in rock climbing after grades v4 / 5.11+?

I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. Indoors, I ...
9
votes
1answer
298 views

How to carry a German Shepherd up and down ladders on the trail?

I am planning to hike a section of the Bruce Trail next year with my German Shepherd. It's mostly low hills but every once in a while I run into vertical ladders. How can I carry my German Shepherd ...
9
votes
4answers
375 views

Is there any evidence that attaching a biner to both seat and leg loops results in a 3-way load?

It is commonly known that loading your carabiner in three directions is bad, as it reduces it's strength. This is apparent when talking about belay stations, as e.g. described in this blog post by the ...
26
votes
5answers
4k views

What are the benefits of learning to climb outdoors rather than indoors?

I would say I'm a fairly experienced hiker, and would love to begin climbing some more challenging mountains, i.e. mountains that require actual climbing, rather than just hiking. I have next to no ...
10
votes
1answer
100 views

What are the different techniques to jam in a crack?

I have been told that climbing cracks is very much a methodical procedure. Especially in places like Yosemite and Indian creek, where the cracks can be the only feature of the rock that can be used to ...
11
votes
5answers
188 views

How to painlessly remove gunk left by tape gloves?

After using tape gloves for crack climbing, I always have some tape gunk left over on my skin. While it doesn't hurt and goes away a few days of rigorous scrubbing, it doesn't look super great at the ...
8
votes
2answers
215 views

How to “store” excess rope in a running belay?

A recent question made me wonder how a running belay is really done. Suppose you are climbing an alpine route, maybe of difficulty UIAA 5. You encounter a stretch of 100m of UIAA 1 terrain with no ...
8
votes
3answers
636 views

Climbing harness: clip two carabiners to avoid cross-loading

For reasons of time-saving and avoiding retie figure 8 knots all the time, can I clip the figure 8 knot via two carabiners each clipped to either loop of the harness? This way there will be no cross ...
10
votes
2answers
775 views

What do classifications of belays (like “4th class belay”) mean?

In this answer about mountaineering on a glacier, @StrongBad mentioned 4th and 5th class belays. I have never heard of belays being classified into such classes. In what context are these classes used ...
10
votes
1answer
599 views

What is a nose-hooked carabiner and why is it dangerous?

In rock climbing a carabiner can get nose-hooked and it is a very dangerous situation. What exactly is a nose-hooked carabiner and why is it dangerous?
43
votes
12answers
24k views

Should overweight people ever climb?

I used to be a regular climber, and unfortunately I have put on some serious weight over the last 4 years, and I have not been able to climb as much as would have loved to. While, I am still working ...
6
votes
4answers
232 views

What would be the disadvantage of racking trad gear around the shoulders rather than the harness, if any?

At the moment I have a sport harness which is not ideal for trad climbing. I might buy a trad harness for outdoor climbing only, however I for the moment, I've been focused on Grivel Lynx and have ...
10
votes
2answers
283 views

Can a click-up belay tool cause rope wear?

I am regularly using the Click-Up belay device from Climbing Technologies together with a 40-meters rope from Edelrid I bought recently. Now, after using the two only about 10 times together (always ...
6
votes
2answers
262 views

Rock climbing grading theory

How to grade a route when cumulating grades for multiple sections? Is it based on the overall feeling of difficulty or is there some cumulative formula to apply which yields a more or less accurate ...
1
vote
1answer
140 views

With what specific techniques are various bouldering grades associated? [duplicate]

Some I've noticed: V0 – hanging by one's arms; shifting weight for balance; pushing with one's legs V1 – pinching, edging V2 – laybacking, pockets, backstepping, flagging V3 – 'more strength'? 'More ...
11
votes
4answers
2k views

Does “Sport Climbing” refer to bolted climbing outdoors only or both indoors and outdoors

I was having a debate with my friend on the definition of "Sport Climbing". We both agree it means rock climbing with no pre-setup ropes on a bolted route. I think regardless of whether this route ...
6
votes
1answer
454 views

What is the Origin of the Word “Sendtember” in Rock Climbing?

Does anyone know the origin of the word "Sendtember"? I'm trying to figure out what it means and Google isn't being helpful. I think it has something to do with temperatures in the month of September ...
9
votes
4answers
2k views

Lowering other members of a party on belay after rappelling

I, an experienced climber who knows how to rappel, would like to take some people on a scramble route that requires rappelling into a notch. The other people on the trip have standard top rope ...
1
vote
0answers
132 views

How long does it generally take to stop feeling climber's elbow? [closed]

I've been climbing 1-2 times / week (usually once) for about a month. After each time I climb, I feel joint pain in my elbows. From my understanding, this is likely Tennis Elbow. Slowly but surely, ...
18
votes
6answers
4k views

How can someone fall 3m to the ground while top-roping & how to prevent it?

My boyfriend and I do top rope climbing quite regularly in our indoor climbing centre. On attempting a harder route, he slipped and fell, reaching the ground. I am trying to understand what went ...
3
votes
2answers
217 views

What type of rope should I use to make a 1.5" Gym Climbing rope?

Use Climbing rope double up as braided as 1.5" Gym Climbing rope. What type, diameter rope, No of Strands? Found these sample videos but curious to know what would be the best way to do this? https:...
9
votes
3answers
381 views

What's the easiest way of improving my strength without a large investment of time?

I've been climbing for about 7 years starting when I was 31 years old. Initially I made rapid progress as I learned the various techniques etc, but after about a year I plateaued and I haven't really ...
8
votes
2answers
180 views

How do I strengthen my ankles for long, steepish, snow and glacier routes?

I had to turn around on a long (5000ft) glacier route last week because one of my ankles had really begun to hurt. The ankle was so fatigued after 1000ft that I doubted my ability to safely finish the ...
9
votes
1answer
227 views

Selling older gear - is it likely to be safe?

My late husband died 7 years ago & I still have his gear. I'm not comfortable leading (and I've lost half my shoulder tendons anyway), so I won't use it. I think the ropes, etriers, etc should ...
6
votes
1answer
189 views

Is it OK to keep a dyneema sling under constant tension (slackline)?

The comment on a previous question I posted here: I am not sure whether this biner was aluminum, but it could be, so a warning (please excuse me if the biner is steel): Aluminum biners are not ...
6
votes
1answer
638 views

How to tie an EBSB bowline?

According to the most comprehensive reference ever written on bowlines, the EBSB bowline (which is a variation of another variation, called the EBDB bowline, together with a sort of Yosemite finish) ...