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Questions tagged [climbing-anchors]

Questions related to anchors used for climbing sports, such as rock climbing

5
votes
2answers
112 views

Can an overhand loop be used to shorten nylon webbing as a personal anchor?

Is it safe to girth-hitch nylon webbing through my harness tie-in points and then shorten the webbing via an overhand loop (assume it is too long) and clipping the non-bight part to the bolt in the ...
6
votes
1answer
103 views

Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?

I have a 120cm nylon runner that I want to use to tether me to an anchor bolt while cleaning the anchor. The runner has a small fray (pictures below). Is it safe to use?
10
votes
3answers
162 views

What to do when one point in a climbing anchor breaks?

Climbing anchors usually have 2-3 redundant protection points, which distribute weight. So if one point breaks, this will not be a catastrophic failure. However, what should I do in practice if this ...
7
votes
2answers
674 views

When making an anchor with static rope around a boulder, what knot should I use

If I'm using a natural feature such as a boulder or a lump of rock as part of an anchor by tying a static rope around it, what are the best knots to use? I'm thinking that there would be different ...
6
votes
2answers
179 views

What's the proper way to establish a triaxial connection with carabiners?

I love free climbing but have never climbed with ropes. While reading through this question, I realized I would never have thought of these scenarios, but due to the answers on that post, the physics ...
5
votes
2answers
349 views

How to use a static rope as a tether at the anchor of a top rope climb?

I just recently returned from a course where we utilized a static rope to construct a top-rope anchor from a top-accessed ledge: the system was like that described in this answer - the resulting ...
2
votes
1answer
205 views

Is amsteel blue appropriate for a use as a runner? [duplicate]

Would amsteel blue rope be appropriate for use in anchor building for climbing or mountaineering? I expect it's not very abrasion resistant so it wouldn't be good up against some rock or an edge. But ...
9
votes
4answers
2k views

Lowering other members of a party on belay after rappelling

I, an experienced climber who knows how to rappel, would like to take some people on a scramble route that requires rappelling into a notch. The other people on the trip have standard top rope ...
8
votes
1answer
178 views

Can you clean new bolt holes with water?

When drilling new holes for expansion anchor bolts, you need to clean the dust out of the hole before you hammer in the bolt. People will accomplish this by either using a blow tube or a bellows and a ...
8
votes
3answers
359 views

Which option should you use for a multi-pitch climbing anchor after traverse?

I am going to do a climb that has a long lateral traverse I drew up three options, and Option #2 seems to me to be preferable to the other options. What do you think the best option is for this ...
14
votes
2answers
548 views

How much stronger is a vertical v-thread than a horizontal one?

I was out ice climbing with a group today and they were using three-point anchors using two vertical v-threads (abalakovs) with one backup ice-bolt. They said the vertical v-threads (one hole over top ...
9
votes
5answers
831 views

Extending a two bolt anchor with one sling?

I took some kids out climbing last night at a small crag popular for top roping, but I wasn't too impressed with their choice of anchor placements, or lack of additional hardware considering their ...
10
votes
3answers
3k views

Top Rope Anchors - is a figure-8 on a bight stronger or just easier to untie than an overhand knot?

I've been learning to build basic TR anchors; a sling clipped to two bolts with a master point in the loop of a figure-eight on a bight. While learning this I struggled to get a tidy figure-eight ...
7
votes
2answers
480 views

How can I transfer my weight to a toprope anchor at the bolts?

I'm going to the crag with some friends in a few days and I plan to lead the first route, clip into a quickdraw on one of the anchor bolts and build a top rope anchor on the bolts. I've been ...
11
votes
4answers
3k views

Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?

I'm signed up for an AMGA single-pitch instructor course (to learn how to teach other people single-pitch climbing). One of the pieces of gear we're supposed to bring is a 30 meter static rope "for ...
13
votes
3answers
2k views

Is a single strand of webbing unacceptable for climbing anchors?

While browsing the DumbAnchors blog, I came across a post which points out the poor use of a single strand (not a loop) of webbing for building top rope anchors. The blogger doesn't say why these are ...
14
votes
1answer
494 views

Why are these acceptable and safe anchors?

Everyone knows redundancy is chief when building climbing anchors. However, I have seen several types of anchors that don't appear to be fully redundant due to a single ring providing the master point....
11
votes
2answers
979 views

Is this anchor set up right?

I was just looking at an article about an expedition on Eiger. I came across this picture. Is this setup right? For more info on the expedition: http://www.markseaton.com/stories/eiger.htm Kudos ...
9
votes
1answer
205 views

Bolting Canyons, can your bolt be under water?

So I've been thinking about developing some canyons around here for canyoneering, but while scrambling up Red Rocks Canyon in Waterton and looking at all the large logs jammed rather high up in the ...
5
votes
3answers
4k views

How long of cord do I need to make a three-point cordelette?

I was looking at buying some cord to make a three point cordelette (I am American, after all). I see that REI sells a pre-cut length of 7mm cord that is 6.4 meters (21 feet), but one of the review ...
10
votes
4answers
2k views

Learning Anchors - How is single cordelette loop anchor redundant?

I have climbed for a long time, but I want to switch to cordelette anchors for speed on multipitch. My main concern is in redundancy with the cordelette. I mentally check the anchor for any problems, ...
14
votes
4answers
2k views

Rappelling from tree

My friend and I were on a tough sport climb and couldn't make it to the chains. Thus, we had one quickdraw still on a bolt and we didn't want to leave this behind, (a quickdraw on this same project ...
12
votes
1answer
7k views

What is an equalette anchor?

When setting up belay there are many ways to connect the anchors. One way is called equalette and is supposed to adapt to a certain extent to the direction of pull. How is such an equalette ...
13
votes
1answer
514 views

V-threads (Abalakov): How many holes are too many?

V-threads, or Abalakov threads (after the inventor Vitaly Abalakov), can be tricky to make (especially left handed in the dark...), but when you miss the mark on your first attempt, or second attempt, ...
15
votes
2answers
2k views

Is it ok to use rolled aluminum descending rings in permanent anchors?

Rolled aluminum descending rings like the SMC Descending ring are light (11g) and cheap ($3) which makes them great for carrying and leaving behind on long descents, but in my mind they are disposable ...
8
votes
3answers
4k views

Should I be using Dyneema slings for lead climbing anchors?

I've seen a few of these comparisons around but I've always struggled to make sense of them. At the moment I do quite a lot of Alpine style routes (lowish grade (HS), long multi pitch routes, ...
11
votes
3answers
733 views

Avoiding building a belay anchor too low down

Sometimes when I'm trad climbing it seems really tough to avoid an awkward belay, and a common type of awkwardness is when the belay device ends up too low. Below is a drawing of a situation I was in ...
12
votes
2answers
4k views

How should I choose between setting up a Cordelette or an Equalette climbing anchor?

I was going through anchoring techniques and I came across this well-received question: Anchor without cordelette? How should one decide when to go for a Cordelette or an Equalette?
12
votes
1answer
575 views

Why are unequalised anchors acceptable for fixed-point belay systems used while ice climbing?

The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides demonstrate Fixed-Point belay systems in this video. Fixed-point belay systems as demonstrated make no effort to equalise the loading on the two anchors, ...
12
votes
2answers
2k views

Why should the angle in a rope attached to two anchors be 60 degrees or less?

This question asks how to set up a top rope anchor. It states that No angle of tension shall exceed 60 degrees. Why?
11
votes
4answers
3k views

Anchor without cordelette?

I have the John Long book on climbing anchors and also a couple of others that describe the subject more briefly (Pesterfield, Traditional Lead Climbing, and Freedom of the Hills). When it comes to ...