Questions tagged [ice-screws]

Questions about ice-screws

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29
votes
2answers
4k views

At what angle should an ice screw be screwed into the ice?

Recently we were climbing up a glacier with the ice at an angle of around 80°. We were placing the ice screws angling slightly upwards with respect to the slope of the ice wall. However, one from ...
4
votes
3answers
193 views

How to follow an existing angle when sharpening?

This question was prompted by the advice to "follow the existing angles" in this answer on sharpening ice screws. I have heard the same advice when it comes to resharpening knives. Of course, there ...
4
votes
2answers
108 views

How and when to sharpen ice screws?

Ice screws need to be sharp to be placed into the ice, and just like anything with an edge they will get dull over time. How would one know when to sharpen an ice screw, and once they do need to be ...
9
votes
2answers
212 views

Where do you place ice screws?

There was a question about when a placed ice screw is not reliable. Now I want to know where to best place an ice screw in advance. So what are features of the ice I should look for or avoid when ...
11
votes
1answer
476 views

Under what circumstances would you not use a recently planted ice screw?

I've done a lot of bouldering, sport climbing and some aiding. Awhile back I went ice climbing with some guys for about a week. I didn't participate much simply because I didn't feel the confidence ...