Questions tagged [prusik]

A Prusik is a friction knot used to grip a section of rope. It is typically used for ascending ropes or providing a backup lock to a belay device.

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votes
2answers
367 views

Is it safe to depend only on a prusik?

This weekend I got myself into (for me) a hairy situation while rappelling. I got to a set of rap anchors that I needed to transfer to in order to get down to the next ledge, so I transferred myself ...
12
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3answers
3k views

How to arrange 2 Prusiks when ascending a rope?

If I want to ascend a rope with minimal equipment, I use 2 Prusiks: one tied to my harness, and the second one for my foot. However, there are two ways to arrange the Prusiks on the rope - the foot ...
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1answer
2k views

How to tie a Purcell Prusik from a single end?

There is the regular Purcell Prusik, which can be used for adjustable tethers or create foot loops for ascending a rope, but it is also useful to know how to tie it with only one end of the rope ...
12
votes
2answers
3k views

How do I know when to choose between a Klemheist or prussik knot?

Both effectively do the same job, grip a rope as an auto bloc or an ascender. What are the pros and cons of each? Why/when would I choose one over the other?
7
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1answer
1k views

How to tie a Purcell prusik?

One of the more useful knots for climbing is the Purcell prusik (related to but not a regular prussik), which can be used as an adjustable tether or for ascending a rope among other things. How would ...
1
vote
0answers
49 views

How to do a prussik with end of cordellete only? [duplicate]

Doing a Prussik with a small cordellete that is tied together in a O is relatively easy. Now some maneuvers require to do a Prussik/blocking knot with only one side of a long cordelete... how do you ...
16
votes
2answers
34k views

What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik

If I'm using two prusik's to climb a rope (one as a foot loop and one attached to harness directly) What's the minimum diameter of cord I should be looking for to remain safe?
10
votes
2answers
564 views

What is a bloquers?

Simple question, which has been prompted from this answer. What is a bloquers? I'm guessing it's some kind of prussik and it's a French term. But I'm not familiar with it. A quick google search ...
10
votes
2answers
843 views

In canyoning, [why] do people skip a backup prusik?

I am used to abseiling with a prusik cord, which gives me protection for the case I lose control of the descent speed. However, I have heard that in canyoning, in some situations, using the prusik is ...
10
votes
1answer
2k views

What is the difference between accessory cord and prusik cord?

Aside from Prusik cord being a different weave, what's the big difference? When would I choose one type of cord over the other? Is there anything I shouldn't I use the different types of cord for? ...
9
votes
3answers
2k views

Abseiling on one rope: should I attach the prusik to the other one?

We were abseiling into a cave (about 15 metres height) using a rope hanged by its middle from an anchor: _ /o\ | | | | | | | | | | My experience on abseiling is mostly from climbing, where I ...
1
vote
0answers
47 views

How do to a safety knot when abseiling with 2 ropes? [duplicate]

If I'm abseiling with a double rope what's the common way to add a safety knot? Is it a prusik knot around the 2 ropes instead of 1 or something like 2 prusiks?
15
votes
5answers
5k views

Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)

What's the best knot for turning a piece of cord into a loop? The cord would then be used for a prusik so needs to be very secure and load bearing.