Questions tagged [rock-climbing]

This tag should be used for all questions about the activity rock climbing, books, gear and accessories used or necessary to do rock climbing. The term Rock Climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls.

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3 answers
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Indoor Rock Climbing (Boulder) - Finger Skin Coming Off - How to Treat and Avoid It?

I started indoor rock climbing 3 weeks ago. I do it 2-3 times a week. I noticed after today's climb that my pinky finger right hand skin is coming off. Also two other fingers skin is kinda loose. How ...
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6 votes
1 answer
100 views

Bouldering in Font

I will be heading to Font and am beginning to plan specific areas to head to. I'm bouldering up to 6b but have heard the grades are stiffer over there (compared to the UK) - if there is a difference, ...
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  • 361
14 votes
4 answers
2k views

Climbing attached to a carabiner rather than tying in

I've just started rock climbing at an indoor climbing gym with a few friends. I noticed on the auto-belay walls, the was a carabiner you clip to your harness (I assume in the belay loop). Is it safe ...
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  • 243
3 votes
2 answers
311 views

Belaying with two hands below atc

I was trained to belay at a summer camp by an adventure group. The way I was taught was to always have two hands below the atc and to pull up with both hands to tighten the rope and then brake with ...
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  • 31
3 votes
2 answers
130 views

Rock climbing around Seattle area

I recently moved to Seattle from the bay area. Does anyone have any recommendations on climbing areas close to Seattle. I know of Index, but I have heard it's pretty hard. I am more of a beginner.
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2 votes
2 answers
291 views

Lead climbing and descending with a repel

After you finish a lead climb and are ready to descend by repelling off the top anchors, do you pull the rope through all the quick draws or do you just clean the quick draws on the way down?
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9 votes
3 answers
3k views

Does it make sense to use fall arresters in rock climbing to reduce the forces involved?

I understand that the fall factor depends on the actual length of the rope that will absorb the energy during a fall. The longer the rope, the smaller the rigidity of the system, and thus, the smaller ...
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1 vote
2 answers
310 views

What's the best way to carry a stick clip while climbing?

In this article and this Outdoors.SE answer, the following use for stick clips is mentioned: Having a clip stick means you can take a quickdraw out at a time. Just lower to the next bolt, clip ...
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-5 votes
3 answers
287 views

Why would placing bolts on a trad climbing route make it inconvenient to climb?

In this question, an interesting comment was added by @endolith: If the route is listed in a guide book as a trad route, it would be seen as … very rude to install bolts on it Is there a practical ...
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7 votes
4 answers
5k views

Can anyone just go ahead and install a rock climbing bolt?

As per Who places the anchors that rock climbers use? it seems that there usually isn't a legally established authority managing rock climbing routes. As such, its up to groups of volunteers to ...
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18 votes
5 answers
6k views

In outdoor sport climbing, why are bolts placed so far apart?

In indoor gyms, lead climbing routes would usually have bolts spaced around 6 feet apart. However in outdoor routes, something like 10 feet seems to be the norm, which is quite perplexing given that ...
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27 votes
8 answers
11k views

Is it okay to “free solo” in popular climbing spots?

Our climbing group had a disagreement today with another set of climbers over the fact that my friend was doing “free solo” on what normally would be a 5.6 top rope route. Personally I wasn’t happy ...
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2 votes
1 answer
266 views

Overhand versus underhand loop in tying up a bowline knot [duplicate]

I have never seen any experienced climber tie up a bowline knot starting up with an underhand loop (*). Bowline knots are most typically started with an overhand by flipping the standing part of the ...
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2 votes
1 answer
238 views

Why is it considered good practice to not remain attached to just a Personal Anchor System?

I'm watching videos on how to lower while outdoor climbing (sample video) and it seems that the accepted practice is to always be attached to the wall with both a rope and the PAS. But what is the ...
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5 votes
4 answers
992 views

How do I know the local ettiquete on lowering vs. rappeling?

From reading up on the rappel vs. lower dilemma, I often see references to "local etiquette". For example a related question mentions that: Some exceptions to the "climber's choice&...
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2 votes
1 answer
177 views

Which way is which on the Wild Country variable controller belay device?

I purchased a Wild Country Variable Controller a while ago but have only used it a couple of times. It has an asymmetrical profile meaning one side provides more friction (for belaying) and the other ...
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3 votes
0 answers
79 views

Creating climbing ladders with webbing strap

I have a webbing spool (some meters long) and would like to create climbing ladders out of it. Could I attach some single bar buckles+tie knots on the extremes to make loops? Is that a bad idea? The ...
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4 votes
2 answers
158 views

How to rig a haul bag so I can move it up/down while midair?

I have a fixed vertical line that can be ascended/descended. I need a bag (a bucket with tools, actually) when I'm hanging mid-air, and need to move it up/down. The bag is over 20 lbs / 10 kg so I ...
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  • 1,706
6 votes
2 answers
775 views

Why are twist-lock carabiners considered dangerous for some applications?

There are different types of locking carabiners. A screw-gate carabiner requires multiple rotations of the screw in order to lock it. A twist-lock carabiner locks automatically whenever you close it. ...
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  • 476
1 vote
1 answer
256 views

What is causing climbing shoe toe blowouts?

I recently had two pairs of climbing shoes die in a very similar fashion: the right toe blows out, leaving a flapping piece of rubber near the bottom tip of the shoe (see photos). This is very ...
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6 votes
2 answers
502 views

Is it safe to depend only on a prusik?

This weekend I got myself into (for me) a hairy situation while rappelling. I got to a set of rap anchors that I needed to transfer to in order to get down to the next ledge, so I transferred myself ...
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1 vote
0 answers
136 views

How can I identify the woman interviewing Alex Honnold at the beginning of Free Solo? [closed]

The documentary Free Solo begins with footage of Honnold climbing and a voice over and cut to this interview, with the interviewer saying: Our next guest is a free soloing phenomenon, please welcome ...
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3 votes
4 answers
576 views

Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?

I started climbing a year ago, at the age of 36. I really enjoy the sport and try to climb a lot. However, lately I've been thinking if it is possible to achieve anything (worthy of mention) for ...
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  • 1,706
6 votes
3 answers
232 views

Top rope installation on an anchor

Let's suppose we have two bolts which are connected with a chain and a ring for rappelling at the top of a climbing route and we would like to install a top rope setup. I hear on a monthly basis that ...
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  • 959
1 vote
1 answer
308 views

Influence of little finger length on climbing performance

Is there any scientific study in climbing which investigates the length of the little finger compared to the middle finger in terms of climbing performance on a professional level (grade > 5.12)? ...
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  • 959
5 votes
2 answers
526 views

Is there a resource for learning ethics/etiquette of outdoor climbing?

Does there exist a book, website, or article that codifies the rules/ cultural norms/ ethics/ etiquette of outdoor climbing. Things like the first party to the base has dibs (as opposed to the first ...
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  • 126
4 votes
1 answer
197 views

Liquid chalk spill on climbing gear

So we were climbing today with some friends and an accidental liquid chalk explosion occurred in one of the backpacks. Contents of said backpack include: carabiners, a nylon sling and the nylon ...
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  • 143
2 votes
2 answers
227 views

How would you describe "leading a pitch" to lay people?

I'm working on a personal statement that turns on a challenging climbing trip in the Sierras and I'm having trouble conveying the story without relying on lingo, like "leading a pitch." In ...
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  • 21
5 votes
3 answers
370 views

Multi-pitch sport climb: Rope too short for rappelling, but having a backup rope

Let's assume you're on a multi-pitch sport climb with a pitch length of 40m and you know how to rappel using an ATC. The single rope you are climbing on is 50m. After 35m you are not able to continue. ...
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  • 959
7 votes
1 answer
401 views

Climbing indoors: emergency situations

We should always do the partner check and tie a stopper knot, but... Lead climbing: If you are half-way up a climbing wall and see that your knot, which attaches you to the harness is loose/untied/...
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  • 959
-2 votes
1 answer
255 views

Yosemite bowline - stopper knot?

I would like to switch to the Yosemite bowline knot. I don't want to compare the pros and cons of figure 8, double bowline and Yosemite bowline. I am interested in single-pitch climbs and gained some ...
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  • 959
8 votes
3 answers
545 views

Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner

I've been shopping for a tri-state self-locking carabiner for clipping into personal anchors but made a mistake and ordered a twist-lock 'biner instead :) Since product return is a hassle during those ...
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  • 1,706
6 votes
2 answers
235 views

Rappelling using the Munter hitch - stopper knot at the end of the rope?

Usually I rappel using a tubular belay device such as an ATC and tie a stopper knot at the end of each strand of the rope such as a fisherman’s knot. Is there a safety knot which you can tie before ...
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  • 959
6 votes
1 answer
217 views

Can a full body harness help reduce the chances of suspension trauma?

Those who are well-versed with rock-climbing (and other variants of climbing) are aware of the dangers posed by Suspension Trauma. Here at The Great Outdoors there had been a healthy discussion on ...
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5 votes
4 answers
542 views

Why do the GriGri and rope tie into different points on a rock climbing harness?

As far as I understand: When you're climbing, you tie your rope through your harness' 2 tie-in points, using a figure 8 knot. When you're belaying, you tie your GriGri or ATC to a carabiner that goes ...
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  • 151
0 votes
3 answers
647 views

Munter hitch + prusik for rope solo lead climbing

Disclaimer This is a question regarding a theoretical technique, and not a tutorial, advice or recommendation. This technique has not been tested, and might potentially be completely unsafe. Climbing ...
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2 votes
3 answers
234 views

Alternating between twin and half rope technique

Is it possible to change within one pitch the climbing style from twin to half rope mode or vice versa? The assumption is that the ropes are certified as twin and half ropes.
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  • 959
2 votes
1 answer
148 views

Dynamic belaying in trad climbing

In the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0GGsBgPic4 they say at 10:49 that you should forget dynamic belaying in trad climbing, because falling more causes more stress on the gear. Is this ...
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  • 959
9 votes
2 answers
284 views

How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope

How do lead climbing falls add up over time based on their fall ratings? For example, the rope I have is rated to 8 UIAA falls. A UIAA fall is a fall factor of 1.77. Lets say over the course of a ...
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1 vote
3 answers
198 views

Where can I find videos of rock climbing competitions?

I'm working on a school project where I'm trying to analyze rock climbing videos. Does anyone know where I can find a good source of rock climbing videos? Ideally, I'm looking for videos with as ...
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  • 129
7 votes
1 answer
161 views

Historical data about rock climbing / bouldering ascents

I am always interested in the history of rock climbing. Lately, I tried to collect data about male and female first ascents to visualize progression in rock climbing over time (I have a small blog ...
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  • 391
9 votes
1 answer
316 views

Earliest in the year one could deep water solo in Majorca?

I'm planning to go deep water soloing in Majorca as soon as weather conditions will allow it, I don't mind cold water as long as it's reasonably warm outside (~20°C). Since I'll probably be ...
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4 votes
3 answers
2k views

How to make it easier to untie a figure-8 knot after finishing a climb?

If you tie a figure-8 knot while rock climbing and fall a few times (especially if they're dynamic lead falls), the knots will become so difficult to untie that you sometimes have to use a carabiner ...
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4 votes
2 answers
361 views

Are there GriGri-like devices that support auto belay rather than assisted belay?

An answer to a related post mentions that: It's worth pointing out that these are assisted and not auto belay devices, you can't just not pay attention and expect them to work. Does this mean that ...
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3 votes
10 answers
911 views

What’s the main appeal for climbing outdoors?

I am a long time gym climber, and I climbed outdoors for a couple of times. I fail to understand why climbing outdoors is more appealing than climbing indoors. If the goal is to climb harder, while ...
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10 votes
1 answer
379 views

What counts as on- or off-route while outdoor climbing?

I did a few sport climbs this week, and on two, it seemed that the area between bolts was just blank, and if I went to the side it was easier. I could still reach the bolts, but I was afraid I was "...
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  • 762
9 votes
1 answer
194 views

Would top-roping in this limestone quarry be reasonable?

So there's this limestone quarry that looks like a beautiful place to rock climb. It's about 40 feet high, and the top is easily accessible and has many trees that look like they'd make fine top-rope ...
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  • 191
6 votes
2 answers
362 views

Transferable skills between rock and ice climbing

I would like to understand if skills/experience gained in rock climbing are going to be useful in climbing steep ice/hard-snow. Of course the gear as well as techniques involved in either are ...
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  • 1,717
3 votes
2 answers
280 views

Jelly Knees while climbing

I have been climbing for more than 10 months now. I had been climbing regularly for 6 months before, unfortunately, I had a 2-3 months break from climbing. When I have gotten back to it now, I find ...
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2 votes
2 answers
293 views

Guide mode ATC with locker to belay loop

So just questioning some advice I received once: When in guide mode when belaying a second from above, is it ok to take the locking carabineer and attach it to your belay loop? The primary benefit is ...
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