Questions tagged [rock-climbing]
This tag should be used for all questions about the activity rock climbing, books, gear and accessories used or necessary to do rock climbing. The term Rock Climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls.
390
questions
7
votes
2
answers
5k
views
What prevents indoor climbing gyms from making a v18 boulder even if one hasn't been found outside?
To be honest this is very much a bouldering/rock-climbing question but hardly a question about the outdoors. Let me know if there is a better home for it.
It seems like it should be very easy for ...
- 773
2
votes
2
answers
139
views
Solo top-roping: use static or dynamic rope?
I'd like to spend a lot of time on a specific rock climbing route. My plan is to do a lot of repetitions in order to be able to red-point it. It's a sport route and is mostly vertical (slight or no ...
- 4,592
3
votes
2
answers
175
views
Extending Anchor Chain using Static Rope over Edge
I have a fixed anchor consisting of a ring through a bolt, connected to another bolt with a chain, as show in this image:
Since this anchor point is at the top of a rock, I want to extend it over the ...
- 33
2
votes
1
answer
177
views
Equivalent of on-sight for an aid climb?
On the team first attempt of a climb with no prior information (because we had gotten off published-route) I was the lead climber on the pitch through the crux. I managed to make it through without ...
- 633
1
vote
1
answer
347
views
Why is it safe to check in climbing gear onto a flight?
In the manual that comes with my rock climbing rope I bought (black diamond) there's a picture with a death sign when the temperature goes below -62 Celsius. Temperatures outside of planes reach well ...
- 111
17
votes
3
answers
3k
views
Mortality statistics: Ski touring vs rock climbing
In Switzerland, where I live, the communities of rock climbers and ski tourers are quite overlapping. I often rock climb in sport setups (single or multi-pitch and bouldering) but almost never go ski ...
- 273
8
votes
2
answers
2k
views
What do you call a nearly vertical step on a ridge?
Here is an example where someone climbing strictly on the ridge would encounter a vertical section:
What do you call this feature?
- 183
6
votes
2
answers
993
views
Why not use Reverso in autoblock/guide mode for top roping (or lead climbing)?
I'm simply wondering why we don't use reversos or similar belay device in guide mode when we top rope or lead climb.
During normal use, letting go of the brake rope removes any braking in case the ...
- 61
1
vote
1
answer
232
views
When did the manufacture date became mandatory written on labels in Europe?
Equipment like ropes, slings, harness, etc. have the manufacture date on their label. I still have some older equipment without any manufacture date written on their label.
When did it become ...
4
votes
1
answer
358
views
Is there a reasonable way to build a toprope anchor if the only available natural anchor points are greater than 90 degrees apart?
I generally use the Joshua Tree anchor system for toproping, as taught to me by a professional guide. Essentially, a static rope is tied to two anchor points to make a "V" shape of 90 ...
- 43
5
votes
2
answers
2k
views
How are different terrains, defined by their angle, called in climbing?
I started climbing 6 months ago and finally need to understand the climbing nomenclature when it comes to terrain angles. So, I would like to ask the climbers how the following angles would be called. ...
- 153
12
votes
1
answer
4k
views
Why are climbing hangers/anchors that thin?
I've always wondered why the typical plates bolted to rock in order to secure climbers are that thin. I imagine them behaving like a knife under a sudden load in a falling scenario. Wouldn't ...
- 255
3
votes
2
answers
606
views
Soft catch for much lighter climber
One of my friends is just starting to get into lead climbing. I'd like to find some good approaches for providing them with a soft catch if they fall. However, there is a big weight difference ...
- 273
4
votes
3
answers
4k
views
Indoor Rock Climbing (Boulder) - Finger Skin Coming Off - How to Treat and Avoid It?
I started indoor rock climbing 3 weeks ago. I do it 2-3 times a week. I noticed after today's climb that my pinky finger right hand skin is coming off. Also two other fingers skin is kinda loose. How ...
- 141
6
votes
1
answer
223
views
Bouldering in Font
I will be heading to Font and am beginning to plan specific areas to head to.
I'm bouldering up to 6b but have heard the grades are stiffer over there (compared to the UK) - if there is a difference, ...
- 365
14
votes
4
answers
5k
views
Climbing attached to a carabiner rather than tying in
I've just started rock climbing at an indoor climbing gym with a few friends.
I noticed on the auto-belay walls, the was a carabiner you clip to your harness (I assume in the belay loop).
Is it safe ...
- 273
4
votes
2
answers
972
views
Belaying with two hands below atc
I was trained to belay at a summer camp by an adventure group. The way I was taught was to always have two hands below the atc and to pull up with both hands to tighten the rope and then brake with ...
- 41
4
votes
2
answers
147
views
Rock climbing around Seattle area
I recently moved to Seattle from the bay area. Does anyone have any recommendations on climbing areas close to Seattle. I know of Index, but I have heard it's pretty hard. I am more of a beginner.
3
votes
2
answers
492
views
Lead climbing and descending with a rappel
After you finish a lead climb and are ready to descend by rappelling off the top anchors, do you pull the rope through all the quick draws or do you just clean the quick draws on the way down?
- 31
9
votes
3
answers
3k
views
Does it make sense to use fall arresters in rock climbing to reduce the forces involved?
I understand that the fall factor depends on the actual length of the rope that will absorb the energy during a fall. The longer the rope, the smaller the rigidity of the system, and thus, the smaller ...
- 91
1
vote
2
answers
790
views
What's the best way to carry a stick clip while climbing?
In this article and this Outdoors.SE answer, the following use for stick clips is mentioned:
Having a clip stick means you can take a quickdraw out at a time. Just lower to the next bolt, clip ...
- 3,017
-5
votes
3
answers
542
views
Why would placing bolts on a trad climbing route make it inconvenient to climb?
In this question, an interesting comment was added by @endolith:
If the route is listed in a guide book as a trad route, it would be seen as … very rude to install bolts on it
Is there a practical ...
- 3,017
7
votes
4
answers
6k
views
Can anyone just go ahead and install a rock climbing bolt?
As per Who places the anchors that rock climbers use? it seems that there usually isn't a legally established authority managing rock climbing routes. As such, its up to groups of volunteers to ...
- 3,017
18
votes
5
answers
7k
views
In outdoor sport climbing, why are bolts placed so far apart?
In indoor gyms, lead climbing routes would usually have bolts spaced around 6 feet apart. However in outdoor routes, something like 10 feet seems to be the norm, which is quite perplexing given that ...
- 3,017
27
votes
8
answers
11k
views
Is it okay to “free solo” in popular climbing spots?
Our climbing group had a disagreement today with another set of climbers over the fact that my friend was doing “free solo” on what normally would be a 5.6 top rope route. Personally I wasn’t happy ...
- 3,017
2
votes
1
answer
989
views
Overhand versus underhand loop in tying up a bowline knot [duplicate]
I have never seen any experienced climber tie up a bowline knot starting up with an underhand loop (*). Bowline knots are most typically started with an overhand by flipping the standing part of the ...
- 321
2
votes
1
answer
454
views
Why is it considered good practice to not remain attached to just a Personal Anchor System?
I'm watching videos on how to lower while outdoor climbing (sample video) and it seems that the accepted practice is to always be attached to the wall with both a rope and the PAS. But what is the ...
- 3,017
5
votes
4
answers
1k
views
How do I know the local ettiquete on lowering vs. rappeling?
From reading up on the rappel vs. lower dilemma, I often see references to "local etiquette". For example a related question mentions that:
Some exceptions to the "climber's choice&...
- 3,017
2
votes
1
answer
395
views
Which way is which on the Wild Country variable controller belay device?
I purchased a Wild Country Variable Controller a while ago but have only used it a couple of times. It has an asymmetrical profile meaning one side provides more friction (for belaying) and the other ...
- 2,433
3
votes
0
answers
96
views
Creating climbing ladders with webbing strap
I have a webbing spool (some meters long) and would like to create climbing ladders out of it.
Could I attach some single bar buckles+tie knots on the extremes to make loops?
Is that a bad idea? The ...
- 611
4
votes
2
answers
229
views
How to rig a haul bag so I can move it up/down while midair?
I have a fixed vertical line that can be ascended/descended. I need a bag (a bucket with tools, actually) when I'm hanging mid-air, and need to move it up/down. The bag is over 20 lbs / 10 kg so I ...
- 1,770
6
votes
2
answers
4k
views
Why are twist-lock carabiners considered dangerous for some applications?
There are different types of locking carabiners. A screw-gate carabiner requires multiple rotations of the screw in order to lock it. A twist-lock carabiner locks automatically whenever you close it.
...
- 476
1
vote
1
answer
330
views
What is causing climbing shoe toe blowouts?
I recently had two pairs of climbing shoes die in a very similar fashion: the right toe blows out, leaving a flapping piece of rubber near the bottom tip of the shoe (see photos). This is very ...
- 113
6
votes
2
answers
1k
views
Is it safe to depend only on a prusik?
This weekend I got myself into (for me) a hairy situation while rappelling. I got to a set of rap anchors that I needed to transfer to in order to get down to the next ledge, so I transferred myself ...
- 247
1
vote
0
answers
153
views
How can I identify the woman interviewing Alex Honnold at the beginning of Free Solo? [closed]
The documentary Free Solo begins with footage of Honnold climbing and a voice over and cut to this interview, with the interviewer saying:
Our next guest is a free soloing phenomenon, please welcome ...
- 111
3
votes
4
answers
3k
views
Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?
I started climbing a year ago, at the age of 36. I really enjoy the sport and try to climb a lot.
However, lately I've been thinking if it is possible to achieve anything (worthy of mention) for ...
- 1,770
6
votes
3
answers
758
views
Top rope installation on an anchor
Let's suppose we have two bolts which are connected with a chain and a ring for rappelling at the top of a climbing route and we would like to install a top rope setup.
I hear on a monthly basis that ...
- 1,047
1
vote
1
answer
965
views
Influence of little finger length on climbing performance
Is there any scientific study in climbing which investigates the length of the little finger compared to the middle finger in terms of climbing performance on a professional level (grade > 5.12)?
...
- 1,047
5
votes
2
answers
546
views
Is there a resource for learning ethics/etiquette of outdoor climbing?
Does there exist a book, website, or article that codifies the rules/ cultural norms/ ethics/ etiquette of outdoor climbing. Things like the first party to the base has dibs (as opposed to the first ...
- 133
4
votes
1
answer
389
views
Liquid chalk spill on climbing gear
So we were climbing today with some friends and an accidental liquid chalk explosion occurred in one of the backpacks. Contents of said backpack include: carabiners, a nylon sling and the nylon ...
- 143
2
votes
2
answers
273
views
How would you describe "leading a pitch" to lay people?
I'm working on a personal statement that turns on a challenging climbing trip in the Sierras and I'm having trouble conveying the story without relying on lingo, like "leading a pitch."
In ...
- 121
5
votes
3
answers
510
views
Multi-pitch sport climb: Rope too short for rappelling, but having a backup rope
Let's assume you're on a multi-pitch sport climb with a pitch length of 40m and you know how to rappel using an ATC. The single rope you are climbing on is 50m. After 35m you are not able to continue. ...
- 1,047
7
votes
1
answer
497
views
Climbing indoors: emergency situations
We should always do the partner check and tie a stopper knot, but...
Lead climbing:
If you are half-way up a climbing wall and see that your knot, which attaches you to the harness is loose/untied/...
- 1,047
-2
votes
1
answer
483
views
Yosemite bowline - stopper knot?
I would like to switch to the Yosemite bowline knot. I don't want to compare the pros and cons of figure 8, double bowline and Yosemite bowline.
I am interested in single-pitch climbs and gained some ...
- 1,047
9
votes
3
answers
917
views
Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner
I've been shopping for a tri-state self-locking carabiner for clipping into personal anchors but made a mistake and ordered a twist-lock 'biner instead :)
Since product return is a hassle during those ...
- 1,770
6
votes
2
answers
351
views
Rappelling using the Munter hitch - stopper knot at the end of the rope?
Usually I rappel using a tubular belay device such as an ATC and tie a stopper knot at the end of each strand of the rope such as a fisherman’s knot.
Is there a safety knot which you can tie before ...
- 1,047
6
votes
1
answer
295
views
Can a full body harness help reduce the chances of suspension trauma?
Those who are well-versed with rock-climbing (and other variants of climbing) are aware of the dangers posed by Suspension Trauma.
Here at The Great Outdoors there had been a healthy discussion on ...
- 31.7k
6
votes
4
answers
1k
views
Why do the GriGri and rope tie into different points on a rock climbing harness?
As far as I understand:
When you're climbing, you tie your rope through your harness' 2 tie-in points, using a figure 8 knot.
When you're belaying, you tie your GriGri or ATC to a carabiner that goes ...
- 163
1
vote
3
answers
1k
views
Munter hitch + prusik for rope solo lead climbing
Disclaimer
This is a question regarding a theoretical technique, and not a tutorial, advice or recommendation.
This technique has not been tested, and might potentially be completely unsafe.
Climbing ...
2
votes
3
answers
523
views
Alternating between twin and half rope technique
Is it possible to change within one pitch the climbing style from twin to half rope mode or vice versa? The assumption is that the ropes are certified as twin and half ropes.
- 1,047