Questions tagged [rock-climbing]

This tag should be used for all questions about the activity rock climbing, books, gear and accessories used or necessary to do rock climbing. The term Rock Climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls.

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1answer
160 views

What is causing climbing shoe toe blowouts?

I recently had two pairs of climbing shoes die in a very similar fashion: the right toe blows out, leaving a flapping piece of rubber near the bottom tip of the shoe (see photos). This is very ...
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2answers
271 views

Is it safe to depend only on a prusik?

This weekend I got myself into (for me) a hairy situation while rappelling. I got to a set of rap anchors that I needed to transfer to in order to get down to the next ledge, so I transferred myself ...
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0answers
101 views

How can I identify the woman interviewing Alex Honnold at the beginning of Free Solo?

The documentary Free Solo begins with footage of Honnold climbing and a voice over and cut to this interview, with the interviewer saying: Our next guest is a free soloing phenomenon, please welcome ...
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4answers
340 views

Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?

I started climbing a year ago, at the age of 36. I really enjoy the sport and try to climb a lot. However, lately I've been thinking if it is possible to achieve anything (worthy of mention) for ...
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3answers
146 views

Top rope installation on an anchor

Let's suppose we have two bolts which are connected with a chain and a ring for rappelling at the top of a climbing route and we would like to install a top rope setup. I hear on a monthly basis that ...
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1answer
171 views

Influence of little finger length on climbing performance

Is there any scientific study in climbing which investigates the length of the little finger compared to the middle finger in terms of climbing performance on a professional level (grade > 5.12)? ...
5
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2answers
496 views

Is there a resource for learning ethics/etiquette of outdoor climbing?

Does there exist a book, website, or article that codifies the rules/ cultural norms/ ethics/ etiquette of outdoor climbing. Things like the first party to the base has dibs (as opposed to the first ...
3
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1answer
112 views

Liquid chalk spill on climbing gear

So we were climbing today with some friends and an accidental liquid chalk explosion occurred in one of the backpacks. Contents of said backpack include: carabiners, a nylon sling and the nylon ...
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2answers
205 views

How would you describe “leading a pitch” to lay people?

I'm working on a personal statement that turns on a challenging climbing trip in the Sierras and I'm having trouble conveying the story without relying on lingo, like "leading a pitch." In ...
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3answers
235 views

Multi-pitch sport climb: Rope too short for rappelling, but having a backup rope

Let's assume you're on a multi-pitch sport climb with a pitch length of 40m and you know how to rappel using an ATC. The single rope you are climbing on is 50m. After 35m you are not able to continue. ...
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1answer
296 views

Climbing indoors: emergency situations

We should always do the partner check and tie a stopper knot, but... Lead climbing: If you are half-way up a climbing wall and see that your knot, which attaches you to the harness is loose/untied/...
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1answer
166 views

Yosemite bowline - stopper knot?

I would like to switch to the Yosemite bowline knot. I don't want to compare the pros and cons of figure 8, double bowline and Yosemite bowline. I am interested in single-pitch climbs and gained some ...
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3answers
346 views

Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner

I've been shopping for a tri-state self-locking carabiner for clipping into personal anchors but made a mistake and ordered a twist-lock 'biner instead :) Since product return is a hassle during those ...
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2answers
160 views

Rappelling using the Munter hitch - stopper knot at the end of the rope?

Usually I rappel using a tubular belay device such as an ATC and tie a stopper knot at the end of each strand of the rope such as a fisherman’s knot. Is there a safety knot which you can tie before ...
6
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1answer
172 views

Can a full body harness help reduce the chances of suspension trauma?

Those who are well-versed with rock-climbing (and other variants of climbing) are aware of the dangers posed by Suspension Trauma. Here at The Great Outdoors there had been a healthy discussion on ...
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4answers
242 views

Why do the GriGri and rope tie into different points on a rock climbing harness?

As far as I understand: When you're climbing, you tie your rope through your harness' 2 tie-in points, using a figure 8 knot. When you're belaying, you tie your GriGri or ATC to a carabiner that goes ...
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3answers
284 views

Munter hitch + prusik for rope solo lead climbing

Disclaimer This is a question regarding a theoretical technique, and not a tutorial, advice or recommendation. This technique has not been tested, and might potentially be completely unsafe. Climbing ...
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3answers
171 views

Alternating between twin and half rope technique

Is it possible to change within one pitch the climbing style from twin to half rope mode or vice versa? The assumption is that the ropes are certified as twin and half ropes.
2
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1answer
105 views

Dynamic belaying in trad climbing

In the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0GGsBgPic4 they say at 10:49 that you should forget dynamic belaying in trad climbing, because falling more causes more stress on the gear. Is this ...
9
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2answers
223 views

How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope

How do lead climbing falls add up over time based on their fall ratings? For example, the rope I have is rated to 8 UIAA falls. A UIAA fall is a fall factor of 1.77. Lets say over the course of a ...
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3answers
151 views

Where can I find videos of rock climbing competitions?

I'm working on a school project where I'm trying to analyze rock climbing videos. Does anyone know where I can find a good source of rock climbing videos? Ideally, I'm looking for videos with as ...
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0answers
102 views

Historical data about rock climbing / bouldering ascents

I am always interested in the history of rock climbing. Lately, I tried to collect data about male and female first ascents to visualize progression in rock climbing over time (I have a small blog ...
9
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1answer
191 views

Earliest in the year one could deep water solo in Majorca?

I'm planning to go deep water soloing in Majorca as soon as weather conditions will allow it, I don't mind cold water as long as it's reasonably warm outside (~20°C). Since I'll probably be ...
4
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3answers
808 views

How to make it easier to untie a figure-8 knot after finishing a climb?

If you tie a figure-8 knot while rock climbing and fall a few times (especially if they're dynamic lead falls), the knots will become so difficult to untie that you sometimes have to use a carabiner ...
4
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2answers
284 views

Are there GriGri-like devices that support auto belay rather than assisted belay?

An answer to a related post mentions that: It's worth pointing out that these are assisted and not auto belay devices, you can't just not pay attention and expect them to work. Does this mean that ...
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10answers
660 views

What’s the main appeal for climbing outdoors?

I am a long time gym climber, and I climbed outdoors for a couple of times. I fail to understand why climbing outdoors is more appealing than climbing indoors. If the goal is to climb harder, while ...
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1answer
296 views

What counts as on- or off-route while outdoor climbing?

I did a few sport climbs this week, and on two, it seemed that the area between bolts was just blank, and if I went to the side it was easier. I could still reach the bolts, but I was afraid I was "...
9
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1answer
178 views

Would top-roping in this limestone quarry be reasonable?

So there's this limestone quarry that looks like a beautiful place to rock climb. It's about 40 feet high, and the top is easily accessible and has many trees that look like they'd make fine top-rope ...
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2answers
311 views

Transferable skills between rock and ice climbing

I would like to understand if skills/experience gained in rock climbing are going to be useful in climbing steep ice/hard-snow. Of course the gear as well as techniques involved in either are ...
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2answers
186 views

Jelly Knees while climbing

I have been climbing for more than 10 months now. I had been climbing regularly for 6 months before, unfortunately, I had a 2-3 months break from climbing. When I have gotten back to it now, I find ...
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2answers
200 views

Guide mode ATC with locker to belay loop

So just questioning some advice I received once: When in guide mode when belaying a second from above, is it ok to take the locking carabineer and attach it to your belay loop? The primary benefit is ...
5
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1answer
362 views

Why does my hand skin continue to crack and peel for days after rock climbing?

I've been having a problem where my hand skin starts to crack and peel on extended climbing trips and I can't get it heal, even by taking several rest days in a row. Instead, it just gets worse and ...
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2answers
924 views

How to descend a few exposed scrambling moves with minimal equipment?

I plan to visit a summit which involves a few hours of easy scrambling, with a slightly more technical part at the end, which is very short (2-3 m) but exposed. I expect no problems on the way up but ...
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0answers
163 views

Cotton climbing pants with a zipper pocket (outdoor rock climbing use for small female climbers) [closed]

the "politicised" debate of female clothing not having pockets (it is especially about skirts and dresses) left aside, I wonder if there are any cotton climbing pants left on the market that have a ...
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3answers
267 views

How hard is the East Buttress route on El Capitan

I am relatively new to climbing, and so far I have only done bouldering climbing. The hardest route I have climbed is a V5, and I am a solid V4 climber. My question was, to anyone who has climbed East ...
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2answers
2k views

Is belaying with a hip belay unsafe?

It has been suggested to me in a comment, about an answer of mine that suggests using a hip belay, that: There's a reason ATCs, plates, GriGris, etc got popular: they're safer. I know I stopped ...
6
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2answers
486 views

When clipping into quickdraws, is it dangerous to pass a finger through the gate?

When learning to sport climb, I was taught not to pass any of my fingers through the gate of the carabiner when clipping into a quickdraw. Lest any of my fingers get stuck and degloved in the case of ...
15
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2answers
5k views

Do sharpies or markers damage soft rock climbing gear?

I have been writing my initials onto the dogbones (webbing connecting biners) of my quickdraws with a sharpie (permanent marker) so I can tell them apart from everyone else's. Recently, one of my ...
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3answers
309 views

How is an attempt defined in sport climbing?

I started to track my finished routes and I cannot find anywhere a definiton of an attempt. Of course if I try to send the route, give up in falf, go down, have a snack and then go again and finish it ...
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4answers
472 views

Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

Why do climbing professional use less than 5 fingers on some holds? From https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/ I mean, why don't they put the other fingers, even if they don't quite fit, ...
7
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1answer
224 views

Is there a utility / method to organize trad gear so that each piece is immediately accessible?

When preparing for a trad climb, I usually divide my rack into separate groups where each group is connected to a single carabiner. So for example all the small nuts go into carabiner 1, middle range ...
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4answers
644 views

Cycle of actions and voice signals on a multipitch climb

When climbing multipitch, what is the cycle of things you do when climbing each pitch, and what are the associated voice signals?
6
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2answers
280 views

Can a Gri-Gri work if the cam is prevented from engaging?

Based on comments on this question. If the moving cam on a Gri-Gri is prevented from engaging (perhaps by a belayer firmly holding onto the device), can you still brake effectively? By "brake ...
3
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1answer
145 views

Does a Mammut Smart Alpine belay device go well with a Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner? Any other recommendations?

Has anybody ever tried to use a cross-load protecting Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner with a Smart Alpine belay device? I do think the Smart Alpine does not go very well with the CRAG Smart HMS ...
4
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1answer
152 views

Tradeoffs between different stopper knots

Because a number of accidents have occurred when a climber was lowered or rappelled off the end of a rope, it is wise to tie a stopper knot in the end(s) of the rope. My question is what stopper knot ...
7
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2answers
467 views

Transition from ascending to descending a rope

Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer: Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope ...
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9answers
14k views

Why is it bad to use your whole foot in rock climbing

I was reading: “The larger the foot-holds, the more beginners tend to put as much of their shoes onto them. Instead, also when the foot-hold offers more space, we must still use only the forefoot ...
3
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3answers
336 views

Use of a personal anchor system to rappel (abseil) off a cliff with anchors by the edge and at foot level

Definitely not a duplicated question to this one... Rather a much more specific question... The situation arises when there are bolted anchors at foot level on the edge of the cliff: The issue is ...
7
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1answer
665 views

Top-rope soloing sensible primary and secondary device combination

I have been trying to find the "canonical" post on this topic without success - each post has its own take on the issue. And I understand that opinions and preferences abound - but I'm looking for ...
7
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2answers
955 views

How to heal a flapper quickly

I've noticed when climbing and bouldering I have a tendency to get occasional flappers on my palm. A flapper being a callus or blister that has peeled back and hangs on like a flap of skin. I trim the ...

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