Questions tagged [rock-climbing]

This tag should be used for all questions about the activity rock climbing, books, gear and accessories used or necessary to do rock climbing. The term Rock Climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls.

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4
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3answers
205 views

Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner

I've been shopping for a tri-state self-locking carabiner for clipping into personal anchors but made a mistake and ordered a twist-lock 'biner instead :) Since product return is a hassle during those ...
2
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1answer
95 views

Climbing indoors: emergency situations

We should always do the partner check and tie a stopper knot, but... Lead climbing: If you are half-way up a climbing wall and see that your knot, which attaches you to the harness is loose/untied/...
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1answer
97 views

Yosemite bowline - stopper knot?

I would like to switch to the Yosemite bowline knot. I don't want to compare the pros and cons of figure 8, double bowline and Yosemite bowline. I am interested in single-pitch climbs and gained some ...
4
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2answers
89 views

Rappelling using the Munter hitch - stopper knot at the end of the rope?

Usually I rappel using a tubular belay device such as an ATC and tie a stopper knot at the end of each strand of the rope such as a fisherman’s knot. Is there a safety knot which you can tie before ...
9
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6answers
273 views

Fisherman rescue, what gear is required?

Apologies for the word problem. I'm sure there's a simple solution or two, but I'm trying to work out a real world scenario. We used to indoor top rope belay but that was years ago in boy Scouts so ...
3
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1answer
100 views

Can a full body harness help reduce the chances of suspension trauma?

Those who are well-versed with rock-climbing (and other variants of climbing) are aware of the dangers posed by Suspension Trauma. Here at The Great Outdoors there had been a healthy discussion on ...
0
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3answers
143 views

Where can I find videos of rock climbing competitions?

I'm working on a school project where I'm trying to analyze rock climbing videos. Does anyone know where I can find a good source of rock climbing videos? Ideally, I'm looking for videos with as ...
4
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3answers
118 views

Why do the GriGri and rope tie into different points on a rock climbing harness?

As far as I understand: When you're climbing, you tie your rope through your harness' 2 tie-in points, using a figure 8 knot. When you're belaying, you tie your GriGri or ATC to a carabiner that goes ...
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2answers
79 views

Munter hitch + prusik for rope solo lead climbing

Disclaimer This is a question regarding a theoretical technique, and not a tutorial, advice or recommendation. This technique has not been tested, and might potentially be completely unsafe. Climbing ...
2
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3answers
145 views

Alternating between twin and half rope technique

Is it possible to change within one pitch the climbing style from twin to half rope mode or vice versa? The assumption is that the ropes are certified as twin and half ropes.
2
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1answer
87 views

Dynamic belaying in trad climbing

In the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0GGsBgPic4 they say at 10:49 that you should forget dynamic belaying in trad climbing, because falling more causes more stress on the gear. Is this ...
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11answers
580 views

What’s the main appeal for climbing outdoors?

I am a long time gym climber, and I climbed outdoors for a couple of times. I fail to understand why climbing outdoors is more appealing than climbing indoors. If the goal is to climb harder, while ...
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2answers
134 views

How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope

How do lead climbing falls add up over time based on their fall ratings? For example, the rope I have is rated to 8 UIAA falls. A UIAA fall is a fall factor of 1.77. Lets say over the course of a ...
12
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2answers
1k views

Statistics on types and survivability of anchor failures?

The most recent (2013) edition of Climbing Anchors, by Long and Gaines, makes some interesting statements in the preface about catastrophic failures of anchors. Long first says that: when belay ...
13
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4answers
4k views

How to take care of climbing hands?

Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: How to toughen up hands?). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing ...
35
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2answers
14k views

If the Dawn Wall had been climbed before, why was the 2015 attempt so difficult?

There's a lot of talk in the media about Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell's free ascent of the dawn wall of El Capitan. This wall has been climbed before, but this is the first time it's been free ...
21
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3answers
893 views

Micro-Fractures in Climbing Equipments

I have always been very careful while handling climbing gear. Last year while returning from an expedition, I met a group that was returning from a tough-looking climb. They were selling off a few of ...
9
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1answer
182 views

Earliest in the year one could deep water solo in Majorca?

I'm planning to go deep water soloing in Majorca as soon as weather conditions will allow it, I don't mind cold water as long as it's reasonably warm outside (~20°C). Since I'll probably be ...
4
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0answers
95 views

Historical data about rock climbing / bouldering ascents

I am always interested in the history of rock climbing. Lately, I tried to collect data about male and female first ascents to visualize progression in rock climbing over time (I have a small blog ...
4
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3answers
324 views

How to make it easier to untie a figure-8 knot after finishing a climb?

If you tie a figure-8 knot while rock climbing and fall a few times (especially if they're dynamic lead falls), the knots will become so difficult to untie that you sometimes have to use a carabiner ...
4
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0answers
159 views

Cotton climbing pants with a zipper pocket (outdoor rock climbing use for small female climbers)

the "politicised" debate of female clothing not having pockets (it is especially about skirts and dresses) left aside, I wonder if there are any cotton climbing pants left on the market that have a ...
9
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1answer
280 views

What counts as on- or off-route while outdoor climbing?

I did a few sport climbs this week, and on two, it seemed that the area between bolts was just blank, and if I went to the side it was easier. I could still reach the bolts, but I was afraid I was "...
2
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1answer
144 views

Are there GriGri-like devices that support auto belay rather than assisted belay?

An answer to a related post mentions that: It's worth pointing out that these are assisted and not auto belay devices, you can't just not pay attention and expect them to work. Does this mean that ...
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3answers
297 views

How to make rock climbing more challenging without changing to a more difficult route?

Sometimes when setting up rock climbs for people you will have climbers of various abilities and yet not have enough resources to set up enough climbs so that everyone has something that is hard ...
9
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1answer
170 views

Would top-roping in this limestone quarry be reasonable?

So there's this limestone quarry that looks like a beautiful place to rock climb. It's about 40 feet high, and the top is easily accessible and has many trees that look like they'd make fine top-rope ...
6
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2answers
293 views

Transferable skills between rock and ice climbing

I would like to understand if skills/experience gained in rock climbing are going to be useful in climbing steep ice/hard-snow. Of course the gear as well as techniques involved in either are ...
3
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2answers
169 views

Jelly Knees while climbing

I have been climbing for more than 10 months now. I had been climbing regularly for 6 months before, unfortunately, I had a 2-3 months break from climbing. When I have gotten back to it now, I find ...
2
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2answers
150 views

Guide mode ATC with locker to belay loop

So just questioning some advice I received once: When in guide mode when belaying a second from above, is it ok to take the locking carabineer and attach it to your belay loop? The primary benefit is ...
19
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3answers
4k views

Why would you climb hard bigwall projects in Yosemite in winter?

One of the hardest routes on El Cap, The Dawn Wall, was done by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in January 2015. What are some of the reasons to choose to climb such a hard route in winter, when the ...
18
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5answers
2k views

How do I get my fingers and toes warm before rock climbing at cold temperatures?

I've had now a couple of days when going rock climbing while the temperatures are below the general comfort zone (meaning below 6 °C/ 43 °F). When starting to climb, my fingers got cold rather fast ...
5
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1answer
175 views

Why does my hand skin continue to crack and peel for days after rock climbing?

I've been having a problem where my hand skin starts to crack and peel on extended climbing trips and I can't get it heal, even by taking several rest days in a row. Instead, it just gets worse and ...
11
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3answers
255 views

How is an attempt defined in sport climbing?

I started to track my finished routes and I cannot find anywhere a definiton of an attempt. Of course if I try to send the route, give up in falf, go down, have a snack and then go again and finish it ...
28
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7answers
11k views

What's the best way to carry a dslr camera when rock-climbing?

I am interested in hearing how people take their dslrs (digital single lens reflex camera) onto multi-pitch-rock-climbs. I have carried mine up in a small pack, but I end up taking hardly any pictures,...
13
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3answers
372 views

Is there a good way to be kept up-to-date with climbing gear recalls?

In the last years, there were a few occasions when companies would put out recalls on their climbing gear due to manufacturing defects. For example, Black Diamond recalled some improperly riveted ...
7
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2answers
878 views

How to descend a few exposed scrambling moves with minimal equipment?

I plan to visit a summit which involves a few hours of easy scrambling, with a slightly more technical part at the end, which is very short (2-3 m) but exposed. I expect no problems on the way up but ...
47
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11answers
70k views

How to clean rock-climbing shoes?

I have never found a good answer to this one: How do you clean rock-climbing shoes, without ruining them? Let me be more specific. I have a pair of modern leather-and-fancy-rubber climbing shoes ...
1
vote
3answers
244 views

How hard is the East Buttress route on El Capitan

I am relatively new to climbing, and so far I have only done bouldering climbing. The hardest route I have climbed is a V5, and I am a solid V4 climber. My question was, to anyone who has climbed East ...
15
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3answers
8k views

Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?

I follow the international rock climbing scene, and we constantly hear of repetitions of hard routes on El Capitan. On Youtube, it is possible to find many videos of strong climbers from all over ...
6
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2answers
331 views

When clipping into quickdraws, is it dangerous to pass a finger through the gate?

When learning to sport climb, I was taught not to pass any of my fingers through the gate of the carabiner when clipping into a quickdraw. Lest any of my fingers get stuck and degloved in the case of ...
12
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2answers
2k views

Is belaying with a hip belay unsafe?

It has been suggested to me in a comment, about an answer of mine that suggests using a hip belay, that: There's a reason ATCs, plates, GriGris, etc got popular: they're safer. I know I stopped ...
15
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2answers
5k views

Do sharpies or markers damage soft rock climbing gear?

I have been writing my initials onto the dogbones (webbing connecting biners) of my quickdraws with a sharpie (permanent marker) so I can tell them apart from everyone else's. Recently, one of my ...
15
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6answers
3k views

Is belaying a lead more difficult than a top roped climber

Assessing potential lead climbing partners for competence and safety asserts that a lead climb belay is more complicated and has higher potential for a serious accident over a top rope belay. Is ...
44
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6answers
56k views

Why go without socks with climbing shoes?

I've been going climbing (indoor bouldering) for about six months, using shoes I rented at the gym, and wearing socks (and everything was fine). I've recently got a pair of climbing shoes, and want to ...
7
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4answers
419 views

Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

Why do climbing professional use less than 5 fingers on some holds? From https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/ I mean, why don't they put the other fingers, even if they don't quite fit, ...
7
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1answer
211 views

Is there a utility / method to organize trad gear so that each piece is immediately accessible?

When preparing for a trad climb, I usually divide my rack into separate groups where each group is connected to a single carabiner. So for example all the small nuts go into carabiner 1, middle range ...
6
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4answers
636 views

Cycle of actions and voice signals on a multipitch climb

When climbing multipitch, what is the cycle of things you do when climbing each pitch, and what are the associated voice signals?
6
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2answers
250 views

Can a Gri-Gri work if the cam is prevented from engaging?

Based on comments on this question. If the moving cam on a Gri-Gri is prevented from engaging (perhaps by a belayer firmly holding onto the device), can you still brake effectively? By "brake ...
7
votes
2answers
607 views

How to heal a flapper quickly

I've noticed when climbing and bouldering I have a tendency to get occasional flappers on my palm. A flapper being a callus or blister that has peeled back and hangs on like a flap of skin. I trim the ...
10
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1answer
443 views

Technique and physical conditioning for crack climbing

Very recently I had been to a climb where I learnt about an alternate route that requires a huge crack to be climbed. It is of about a 100-120 ft roughly. Though I have experience in climbing open ...
7
votes
1answer
415 views

Top-rope soloing sensible primary and secondary device combination

I have been trying to find the "canonical" post on this topic without success - each post has its own take on the issue. And I understand that opinions and preferences abound - but I'm looking for ...

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