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Questions tagged [rock-climbing]

This tag should be used for all questions about the activity rock climbing, books, gear and accessories used or necessary to do rock climbing. The term Rock Climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls.

2
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1answer
169 views

With what specific techniques are various bouldering grades associated? [duplicate]

Some I've noticed: V0 – hanging by one's arms; shifting weight for balance; pushing with one's legs V1 – pinching, edging V2 – laybacking, pockets, backstepping, flagging V3 – 'more strength'? 'More ...
11
votes
4answers
2k views

Does “Sport Climbing” refer to bolted climbing outdoors only or both indoors and outdoors

I was having a debate with my friend on the definition of "Sport Climbing". We both agree it means rock climbing with no pre-setup ropes on a bolted route. I think regardless of whether this route ...
6
votes
1answer
464 views

What is the Origin of the Word “Sendtember” in Rock Climbing?

Does anyone know the origin of the word "Sendtember"? I'm trying to figure out what it means and Google isn't being helpful. I think it has something to do with temperatures in the month of September ...
6
votes
1answer
93 views

Will ibexes react aggressively or flee if approached on a mountain?

On a recent multi-pitch climb, we encountered a strange situation: The wall was basically divided into three parts: 200m of climbing, a large steep grassy part where you untie from the rope and walk ...
14
votes
6answers
3k views

Is belaying a lead more difficult than a top roped climber

Assessing potential lead climbing partners for competence and safety asserts that a lead climb belay is more complicated and has higher potential for a serious accident over a top rope belay. Is ...
6
votes
0answers
85 views

Assessing potential lead climbing partners for competence and safety [duplicate]

I recently started lead climbing in the gym after taking a lead climbing class. So far, I've only led with someone I know from the class who I watched lead belaying a number of times during the class....
7
votes
2answers
460 views

The dangers of simul-rappelling

To simul-rappel, the technique goes as follows: Prepare to rappel as usual, passing the rope through bomber bolts; Tie knots on both ends of the rope; Attach your personal anchoring system (PAS) to ...
1
vote
0answers
141 views

How long does it generally take to stop feeling climber's elbow? [closed]

I've been climbing 1-2 times / week (usually once) for about a month. After each time I climb, I feel joint pain in my elbows. From my understanding, this is likely Tennis Elbow. Slowly but surely, ...
9
votes
1answer
168 views

Big wall strategies for a three-member team

I'm off this weekend for a three-day big wall with two other friends. I read "Big Walls", by Long and Middendorf, but the book is too old and doesn't really mention strategies for a three-member crew. ...
6
votes
3answers
362 views

What do you do when you're rappelling a halfed rope and you run out of rope on one side?

So this happened the other day; shouldn't have happened if I had been taking my time and paying attention to what I was doing, but it did: I was cleaning a bunch of ropes from the top of a short ...
19
votes
6answers
4k views

How can someone fall 3m to the ground while top-roping & how to prevent it?

My boyfriend and I do top rope climbing quite regularly in our indoor climbing centre. On attempting a harder route, he slipped and fell, reaching the ground. I am trying to understand what went ...
9
votes
1answer
237 views

Selling older gear - is it likely to be safe?

My late husband died 7 years ago & I still have his gear. I'm not comfortable leading (and I've lost half my shoulder tendons anyway), so I won't use it. I think the ropes, etriers, etc should ...
20
votes
8answers
6k views

How do you tie in to the centre of a rope?

Suppose you're leading a short pitch (20-30m) and you have two followers, or you want to double rope the route, and want to simply half your rope and tie into the centre, pulling the two halves up ...
8
votes
1answer
180 views

Can you clean new bolt holes with water?

When drilling new holes for expansion anchor bolts, you need to clean the dust out of the hole before you hammer in the bolt. People will accomplish this by either using a blow tube or a bellows and a ...
12
votes
5answers
3k views

Can you safely use retired ropes for belaying children?

Climbing ropes are UIAA rated for so many falls of an 80kg weight. After that number of falls–or a specific period of time based on amount of use–you are supposed to retire the rope. But what if the ...
14
votes
3answers
4k views

Is it ok for my climbing shoes/chalk bag to get wet?

I recently picked up bouldering and bought my first pair of shoes as well as chalk and a bag. I've only been climbing in the gym for now and handled the equipment like any other gym-sports-equipment: ...
3
votes
2answers
283 views

What is the minimum amount of gear that would allow one to ascend a climbing rope?

If you had a climbing rope anchored above you on either a sheer cliff or a really steep incline, what is the minimum amount of gear that a person would need to ascend the rope without assistance from ...
10
votes
5answers
230 views

Fisherman rescue, what gear is required?

Apologies for the word problem. I'm sure there's a simple solution or two, but I'm trying to work out a real world scenario. We used to indoor top rope belay but that was years ago in boy Scouts so ...
8
votes
1answer
453 views

How to pull someone up in a rescue situation?

This question made me wonder how one should be pulled up in a rescue situation, e.g. when lowering is not an option. This answer explains a Z-pulley when in an alpine/glacier environment. I'm more ...
8
votes
3answers
374 views

Which option should you use for a multi-pitch climbing anchor after traverse?

I am going to do a climb that has a long lateral traverse I drew up three options, and Option #2 seems to me to be preferable to the other options. What do you think the best option is for this ...
6
votes
2answers
260 views

Have the climbing signals “take” and “safe” every been confused to the point of an accident?

There is a story I have heard about climbers who confused "take" and "safe" and I am wondering if it has actually happened. The story goes like this, The climber is out of sight of the belayer and ...
28
votes
3answers
8k views

What should one do when climbing if someone above you yells ROCK?

Hearing someone above you yell ROCK when climbing is a scary experience because that means that an object (usually a rock) is plummeting down to the route towards you. Hopefully you are wearing your ...
4
votes
1answer
168 views

Climbing at the Skytop area of the Gunks

The Skytop area at the Gunks has a number of stellar climbs including Foops (5.11) and Super Crack (5.12+). From what I can piece together, climbing there requires a guide and buying a meal/pass at ...
26
votes
8answers
7k views

Techniques for handling pumped arms?

I love rock climbing and I try to go to my local gym and boulder as often as possible (usually 2-3 times a week). But it's really hard for me to climb for any extended period of time because my arms ...
8
votes
1answer
199 views

What is a “top cap” on a climber's haul bag?

What is a "top cap" on a climber's haul bag and how does it work? In Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (and also at neilhopkins.us/mountaineering-guide-2/aid-climbing-equipment) is A top ...
10
votes
2answers
909 views

Are nuts and cams less safe if the rock is wet?

In (probably) most of northern Europe, it is somewhat cold and wet outside. Despite this fact, I'm trying to get as much outdoor climbing done as I can. A backup plan for somewhat cold weather (i.e. ...
19
votes
4answers
973 views

How to train climbing endurance at home?

Close to my home, there is only a bouldering gym, but no climbing gym that offers roped climbing. But my real goal in climbing is leading harder/longer routes. The bouldering really improves my ...
7
votes
3answers
189 views

Tips for leading project climbs

I am fairly new to lead climbing. Yesterday, while I was attempting to lead one of my project routes at the gym, I look a fall while clipping the 3rd clip (in the danger zone). The fall scared me ...
10
votes
1answer
424 views

What do the UIAA markings on rock climbing gear mean?

I buy my rock climbing hardware in America and it all comes labeled with UIAA ratings. These ratings make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. My gear has met mythological engineering standards. They ...
8
votes
2answers
407 views

Are there artificial climbing holds that feel like granite?

I have experience in climbing limestone and sandstone. These rocks feel rough - you get much traction (especially with sandstone) and can use it to your advantage when climbing. I think the feeling ...
12
votes
2answers
2k views

Lead climb weight ratios [duplicate]

I'm about 150ish lbs and my partner is 100ish lbs. I've read somewhere that a 2/3 weight ratio between belayer and climber is ok for lead climb, but I don't remember exactly where. Can someone ...
12
votes
2answers
1k views

How to learn route setting?

I started setting routes in the small bouldering gym of our climbing club. I'm basically learning by doing this, so my approach is basically to try to think of some interesting moves, put up the holds ...
12
votes
3answers
2k views

Correct and incorrect slip-slap-slide belay technique

This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. Here is a video demonstrating PBUS. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p. 161 of Freedom of the ...
19
votes
3answers
5k views

What can I do about a rock climbing ban?

Authorities have recently banned climbing in my favorite site "for safety reasons". This is, in my opinion, unfair, and was done for unknown political reasons. What can I do to hopefully change their ...
13
votes
3answers
351 views

Do mountaineers use dynamic climbing when traversing rock/ice?

I have recently taken up bouldering/rock climbing to learn some rock climbing techniques and learn rope skills. In my research, I have come across two types of climbing: static and dynamic. Although ...
10
votes
3answers
2k views

Why are climbing shoes usually a slightly tighter than the usual mountaineering shoes?

Why are climbing shoes a slightly tighter than the regular mountaineering shoes?
16
votes
2answers
365 views

Does resoling change a climbing shoe's fit?

If climbing shoes are resoled, will they fit differently afterward? If so, in what way does it change (narrower, shorter, tighter, looser, etc..)?
5
votes
2answers
1k views

Using Gri Gri 2 as a Self Belaying Device

The other day I was so desperate to go climbing, but I couldn't find a partner, so I ended up self belaying after googling and watching this video. I did check Petzl's site to learn that modifying Gri ...
4
votes
3answers
344 views

A method to retrieve a carabiner

I saw this a few times, years ago I met some guys who were top roping next to us in Jackson Falls, IL 25 years ago who showed us a method of retrieving your top carabiner(s) when you were done top ...
3
votes
1answer
538 views

Using Gri Gri 2's Carabiner with Another Belay Device?

I've been using an AustriAlpin autolock carabiner with my Gri Gri 2 for around 9 months, a few times a week (1 to 3 times). It's a very solid, robust and big carabiner, which means that's not too ...
4
votes
1answer
226 views

What is the working range of TRUBLUE auto belay?

The local climbing gym has several TRUBLUE auto belays but one can soon tire of the same routes. Will the auto belay work if one climbs a route next to it? At what angles does it still arrest a fall? ...
11
votes
3answers
2k views

Belaying directly off a ground anchor?

I recently visited a new climbing gym and was instructed to belay directly off a ground anchor without any attachment to my harness. I've been to other gyms that belay with ground anchors but with ...
9
votes
1answer
286 views

What specs for binoculars to spot climbing routes?

What Z x W would you recommend for spotting a rock climbing route (up to about 30,40 meters high - standing in front of it)? Checking for cracks f.x., to estimate what cams you need to take with you ...
9
votes
1answer
166 views

When a knot unties because the tail is too short

Is there a technical term that refers to a knot untying under load because the tail was too short?
14
votes
1answer
631 views

How to second a “french free” / A0 move?

If the leader has had to resort to pulling on a piece of gear to make it through a crux on a pitch how can the second pass this point while also cleaning the piece that was used for aid. Assuming they ...
9
votes
5answers
845 views

Extending a two bolt anchor with one sling?

I took some kids out climbing last night at a small crag popular for top roping, but I wasn't too impressed with their choice of anchor placements, or lack of additional hardware considering their ...
10
votes
3answers
1k views

What do I need to consider when rock climbing at night?

One of my dream climbs is to climb Snake Dike on Half Dome at night with a full moon. Are there any special considerations for rock climbing at night beyond bringing headlamps and extra batteries ...
10
votes
3answers
3k views

Top Rope Anchors - is a figure-8 on a bight stronger or just easier to untie than an overhand knot?

I've been learning to build basic TR anchors; a sling clipped to two bolts with a master point in the loop of a figure-eight on a bight. While learning this I struggled to get a tidy figure-eight ...
9
votes
1answer
333 views

Climbing wall on private home

I'm just curious how feasible it is to install a rock climbing wall on the side of a regular, balloon framed house (modern standard in the U.S. and Canada). Would something like that require ...
16
votes
2answers
1k views

What is a “spit anchor”?

In an English climbing guidebook about a French region, I read the term spit anchor in the general description of the equipment of the (multi-pitch) routes of some crags. I never heard that term ...