Questions tagged [rock-climbing]
This tag should be used for all questions about the activity rock climbing, books, gear and accessories used or necessary to do rock climbing. The term Rock Climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls.
12
votes
1answer
1k views
What does it mean to free a climbing route?
Sometimes I read articles about climbers having freed a route. For example: "Lynn Hill freed the Nose". What does this exactly mean in terms of how they climbed it?
Specifically:
Are they not ...
6
votes
1answer
183 views
Major fall, same for static and dynamic?
The UIAA says that you should retire your gear after a major fall is a fall with fall factor > 1.77.
Now I was wondering if this criterion is the same for all kinds of material ?
Dynamic ropes
Semi-...
22
votes
7answers
7k views
How to safely mark a rope
I was reading this question and the first thing that popped into my head is what do you use to mark the middle of the rope?
I was taught not to use any kind of marker on the rope (because there's no ...
6
votes
2answers
2k views
What are common rock-climbing footwork mistakes and how I can spot them?
(This question is related to How can I improve my footwork while rock-climbing?)
What are common rock-climbing footwork mistakes and how can I spot them?
More specifically: When I started climbing I ...
9
votes
1answer
2k views
How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?
How can I choose the right climbing shoes especially for toe and heel hooking?
More specifically: I have been using very comfortable beginner shoes for the last two years. When I started to advance ...
4
votes
1answer
1k views
Shortening a shoulder-length sling to half-length?
For trad climbing, I normally carry shoulder-length slings racked on my harness, set up in Alpine draws at 1/3 their full length. When I'm leading and need to extend my protection, I either use them ...
6
votes
1answer
300 views
Do Half/Twin/Double Ropes get Middle Marked?
I marked my single rope so I can find the middle when rappelling and also to give my belayer a warning when I'm on a route of unknown length.
I am going to purchase a set of half ropes soon for some ...
11
votes
2answers
4k views
Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
What is recommended after finishing a sport climb--lowering off from the anchors or rappelling ? Rappelling preserves the hardware better, but is usually thought to be more dangerous since you take ...
5
votes
2answers
462 views
Is there a best practices guide online for rock climbing safety?
I've recently started sport climbing outdoors and was looking for some definitive safety information published by some reputable organization (i.e. American Mountain Guides Assocation, AMGA), but I ...
11
votes
1answer
358 views
Climbing Webbing with Taped Ends (where & why)
I was reading through the AAJ, and I came across a report from April this year when somebody died due to an anchor failure. The webbing was joined with some masking tape at the ends, instead of ...
11
votes
2answers
531 views
Most Eco-Friendly way to Identify a Climbing Route
In Ontario where I live and do most of my climbing the routes are not clearly marked. Guide books also lack clear approaches and thus it just turns into a big guessing game of what route you're on ...
14
votes
2answers
1k views
Semi-static rope 24 hour rule
It is said that a semi-static rope should be submerged for 24 hours before first use.
Why is this, and is this before every first use ?
7
votes
3answers
388 views
Efficient and reliable method for managing a nut tool while following on a trad climb?
When you're following a pitch on a trad climb, what is a good method for racking and handling the nut tool? My goals are to be efficient but not to drop the tool.
My current system, which I'm not ...
16
votes
4answers
22k views
Technique for lead solo climbing with rope
In the past I saw climbers climb alone on multi-pitch routes only by themselves (but not free solo). What's a correct technique to do this?
I know how to do it with two ropes, rope ascenders and on ...
5
votes
2answers
471 views
Bouldering in California in the summer
I have a few questions concerning bouldering in California (Mickey's beach and Castle rock) during the month of August. We have two crash pads and a guide book for bouldering in the area. I have had ...
10
votes
1answer
360 views
In an abandoned quarry, is it possible to pry loose rocks from walls until stable?
I have an abandoned quarry near my house, in which I would like to make a hiking route.
Almost all of it is enjoyable hiking and easy scrambling, except one part, which requires climbing (estimated ...
12
votes
1answer
424 views
Rating unorthodox climbs
This question is sprouted from Brick Wall Rating
I occasionally climb in places where it seems unorthodox, such as a brick wall. I've found that even with the plethora of hand holds that buildings ...
8
votes
2answers
721 views
Brick Wall Rating [closed]
Hi I am a new boulderer and have climbed many difficult routes, or official ones for that matter. Currently when I am not able to go out the local region, I attempt to send the side of my house. The ...
11
votes
2answers
1k views
Foam vs hardshell climbing helmets?
What are the advantages/disadvantages of climbing helmet design (foam or hardshell)?
Foam
Hardshell
PS: I do not intend to compare them by how much they cost.
7
votes
2answers
3k views
What rope to chose to hold my body weight from a monkey fist knot
I am trying to make my own wrecking ball since buying one is expensive and making one is also more fun.
My idea was to use 2 cricket balls that I have and tie monkey fist knots around them and finish ...
14
votes
1answer
5k views
How do you compare between different rock climbing grades?
Different countries and rock climbing disiplines have different grading systems, for example the the British trad grade system (e.g. grade HVS 5(a)) and the US point grading system (e.g. 5.9)
If I ...
11
votes
1answer
6k views
“Tag line”/“pull cord” for multipitch trad: what kind and when needed?
I normally climb with a single 10 mm x 60 m rope. On some multipitch trad climbs, I don't expect to have to rappel off, but I might have to in an emergency. Many people carry a special-purpose 6 mm ...
11
votes
2answers
1k views
“Used” top rope when bouldering
My friend and I often boulder around my home instead of driving to the local area, and when attempting some more challenging features, such as overhangs and slightly taller cliffs, we would feel ...
20
votes
3answers
641 views
How should a climbing rope be cleaned?
What products and process should be used to clean a climbing rope when it gets sufficiently dirty? How would I remove as much dirt and grime as possible without negatively affecting the strength or ...
23
votes
4answers
12k views
How should a climbing rope be stored?
I've purchased my first climbing rope and am wondering how it should be stored when not in use. I have a rope bag which I assume is a good home for the rope; should it be kept tightly coiled inside ...
15
votes
4answers
2k views
How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb?
The guy who taught me to lead sport in the gym suggested that when I'm going for a clip, I position my body so that the clip is somewhere between my hips and my chest. He claimed it was a bad thing ...
23
votes
5answers
4k views
Learning to fall when leading: what is good fall technique?
I'm learning to lead climbs, and I'm terrified of big falls. Part of this is learning to trust my gear placements, but a large portion is because I don't know how to fall - I've only taken small falls ...
12
votes
1answer
593 views
Why are unequalised anchors acceptable for fixed-point belay systems used while ice climbing?
The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides demonstrate Fixed-Point belay systems in this video.
Fixed-point belay systems as demonstrated make no effort to equalise the loading on the two anchors, ...
7
votes
1answer
3k views
Indoor vs. Outdoor sport climbing
As I started indoor climbing this year I would like to know what distinguishes it from outdoor sport climbing, especially when you are lead climbing.
I know that there are huge differences in safety, ...
20
votes
4answers
5k views
Is it safe to cut a climbing rope in half?
I recently bought a 70 meter climbing rope from REI because it was a great price on the outlet. Last weekend I used it for the first time in the Texas hill country, where 99% of routes need a rope ...
11
votes
1answer
489 views
Improving sport climbing skills
I recently made a sport climbing course mainly to give it a try and also to learn something about belaying in general. It's fun, challenging and I got hooked quite a bit. Overall I was around 10 times ...
10
votes
1answer
130 views
Replacing rope/cord/tape/slings on protection gear
We all know that due to age-related deterioration, ropes, harnesses, slings and other "software" should be replaced after a certain period even if thay have not been damaged or been involved in high ...
14
votes
3answers
10k views
What to do at the top of a sport climb
I dabble a little at leading trad, but have never led a sport route.
If I do a sport lead, I want to make sure I don't make some stupid mistake when I get to the top. For example, I don't want to ...
12
votes
2answers
2k views
Why should the angle in a rope attached to two anchors be 60 degrees or less?
This question asks how to set up a top rope anchor. It states that No angle of tension shall exceed 60 degrees. Why?
22
votes
8answers
2k views
What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
The scenario
My climbing partner and I are at the top of a pitch and we drop a belay plate to the ground. There is no safe descent, we were planning on rappelling down off safe anchors.
What do we ...
7
votes
3answers
143 views
Climbing guide for the Yorkshire Dales
Can anybody reccommend a climbing guide for the Yorkshire Dales area? I'm off for a weekend trip there in a couple of months but I'm having difficulty finding a guide for the area. Roughly the Askrigg ...
8
votes
1answer
359 views
Technique and physical conditioning for crack climbing
Very recently I had been to a climb where I learnt about an alternate route that requires a huge crack to be climbed. It is of about a 100-120 ft roughly.
Though I have experience in climbing open ...
20
votes
3answers
15k views
Climbing with a much lighter partner?
Both my fiancee and myself bought some climbing gear recently and we're planning our first trip to an indoor rock gym this weekend. We decided to practice our knots and belay technique before we went ...
16
votes
2answers
333 views
Reference request: books on self-rescue while climbing
Can people recommend books or online resources on self-rescue for roped climbing? As a beginning trad leader, I think I should have a basic understanding of topics like how to escape a belay and how ...
22
votes
2answers
3k views
When should I retire my rope
I know there is a degree of "gray" in this question but:
I have a Beal Top gun II 10.5mm, I've had this rope for around 4 years now and I'm starting to think about retiring it.
It's been used ...
2
votes
1answer
1k views
What are the pros and cons of using the Spyridon model of Vibram FiveFingers for climbing? [closed]
So I am moving to Colorado in a little more than three weeks and super-pumped to elevate my experiences with the endless outdoor adventures! At this point in my life, I have six pair of shoes; three ...
13
votes
1answer
2k views
Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated?
I resumed climbing a couple of months back after a gap of a couple of years.
After spending a month of quality time at the wall regularly in order to get back in touch, I have started to try different ...
15
votes
4answers
15k views
Does sandpapering finger tips improve rock climbing?
Is sandpapering your finger tips an effective way to improve anything about your rock climbing?
On occasion, I will see climbers in YouTube videos or people at the local crag using sandpaper on their ...
23
votes
4answers
5k views
Is it realistic to teach yourself rock climbing?
I've been wanting to get into rock climbing for a while but I live in a very flat area with no climbing gyms around. I'm planning on moving to the Pacific Northwest soon and I wanted to know what the ...
12
votes
3answers
957 views
Abandoning a multi pitch climb
If you're on a multi pitch route and you decide to abandon the climb and retreat(say the weather has turned unexpectedly). What is the minimum amount of gear you should leave behind as a rope anchor ...
14
votes
2answers
29k views
What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
If I'm using two prusik's to climb a rope (one as a foot loop and one attached to harness directly) What's the minimum diameter of cord I should be looking for to remain safe?
11
votes
2answers
726 views
Hauling a pack during climbing
Generally when doing multi-pitch climbs, I prefer to just climb with a light pack. However, sometimes that's just not possible and the pack(s) must be hauled instead.
What are some good ways to haul ...
4
votes
1answer
550 views
How do I tie a figure of 8 knot
How would I tie a double figure of eight knot for attaching to a rock climbing harness?
11
votes
2answers
1k views
“Must Have” in a starter Trad Rack
After learning to climb indoors on top rope and learning to lead sport climbs outdoors I will be progressing into Trad climbing by taking an instruction course as well as climbing with other ...
4
votes
2answers
616 views
Rock Climbing - Beginner's Guide for Quick Improvement? [closed]
I've recently become quite interested in climbing, and I have been frequenting a local gym. As I become more serious, I'm curious how to most quickly improve.
For example,
Should I focus on ...
