Questions tagged [rock-climbing]
This tag should be used for all questions about the activity rock climbing, books, gear and accessories used or necessary to do rock climbing. The term Rock Climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls.
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What should one do when climbing if someone above you yells ROCK?
Hearing someone above you yell ROCK when climbing is a scary experience because that means that an object (usually a rock) is plummeting down to the route towards you.
Hopefully you are wearing your ...
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Climbing at the Skytop area of the Gunks
The Skytop area at the Gunks has a number of stellar climbs including Foops (5.11) and Super Crack (5.12+). From what I can piece together, climbing there requires a guide and buying a meal/pass at ...
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Techniques for handling pumped arms?
I love rock climbing and I try to go to my local gym and boulder as often as possible (usually 2-3 times a week). But it's really hard for me to climb for any extended period of time because my arms ...
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What is a "top cap" on a climber's haul bag?
What is a "top cap" on a climber's haul bag and how does it work? In Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (and also at neilhopkins.us/mountaineering-guide-2/aid-climbing-equipment) is
A top ...
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Are nuts and cams less safe if the rock is wet?
In (probably) most of northern Europe, it is somewhat cold and wet outside. Despite this fact, I'm trying to get as much outdoor climbing done as I can.
A backup plan for somewhat cold weather (i.e. ...
- 4,447
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How to train climbing endurance at home?
Close to my home, there is only a bouldering gym, but no climbing gym that offers roped climbing. But my real goal in climbing is leading harder/longer routes. The bouldering really improves my ...
- 4,447
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Tips for leading project climbs
I am fairly new to lead climbing. Yesterday, while I was attempting to lead one of my project routes at the gym, I look a fall while clipping the 3rd clip (in the danger zone). The fall scared me ...
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What do the UIAA markings on rock climbing gear mean?
I buy my rock climbing hardware in America and it all comes labeled with UIAA ratings.
These ratings make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. My gear has met mythological engineering standards. They ...
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Are there artificial climbing holds that feel like granite?
I have experience in climbing limestone and sandstone. These rocks feel rough - you get much traction (especially with sandstone) and can use it to your advantage when climbing.
I think the feeling ...
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Lead climb weight ratios [duplicate]
I'm about 150ish lbs and my partner is 100ish lbs. I've read somewhere that a 2/3 weight ratio between belayer and climber is ok for lead climb, but I don't remember exactly where.
Can someone ...
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How to learn route setting?
I started setting routes in the small bouldering gym of our climbing club. I'm basically learning by doing this, so my approach is basically to try to think of some interesting moves, put up the holds ...
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Correct and incorrect slip-slap-slide belay technique
This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. Here is a video demonstrating PBUS. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p. 161 of Freedom of the ...
user2169
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What can I do about a rock climbing ban?
Authorities have recently banned climbing in my favorite site "for safety reasons". This is, in my opinion, unfair, and was done for unknown political reasons.
What can I do to hopefully change their ...
- 4,486
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3
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Do mountaineers use dynamic climbing when traversing rock/ice?
I have recently taken up bouldering/rock climbing to learn some rock climbing techniques and learn rope skills. In my research, I have come across two types of climbing: static and dynamic. Although ...
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Why are climbing shoes usually a slightly tighter than the usual mountaineering shoes?
Why are climbing shoes a slightly tighter than the regular mountaineering shoes?
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Does resoling change a climbing shoe's fit?
If climbing shoes are resoled, will they fit differently afterward? If so, in what way does it change (narrower, shorter, tighter, looser, etc..)?
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Using Gri Gri 2 as a Self Belaying Device
The other day I was so desperate to go climbing, but I couldn't find a partner, so I ended up self belaying after googling and watching this video. I did check Petzl's site to learn that modifying Gri ...
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A method to retrieve a carabiner
I saw this a few times, years ago
I met some guys who were top roping next to us in Jackson Falls, IL 25 years ago who showed us a method of retrieving your top carabiner(s) when you were done top ...
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Using Gri Gri 2's Carabiner with Another Belay Device?
I've been using an AustriAlpin autolock carabiner with my Gri Gri 2 for around 9 months, a few times a week (1 to 3 times). It's a very solid, robust and big carabiner, which means that's not too ...
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What is the working range of TRUBLUE auto belay?
The local climbing gym has several TRUBLUE auto belays but one can soon tire of the same routes. Will the auto belay work if one climbs a route next to it? At what angles does it still arrest a fall?
...
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11
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Belaying directly off a ground anchor?
I recently visited a new climbing gym and was instructed to belay directly off a ground anchor without any attachment to my harness. I've been to other gyms that belay with ground anchors but with ...
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What specs for binoculars to spot climbing routes?
What Z x W would you recommend for spotting a rock climbing route (up to about 30,40 meters high - standing in front of it)? Checking for cracks f.x., to estimate what cams you need to take with you ...
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When a knot unties because the tail is too short
Is there a technical term that refers to a knot untying under load because the tail was too short?
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How to second a "french free" / A0 move?
If the leader has had to resort to pulling on a piece of gear to make it through a crux on a pitch how can the second pass this point while also cleaning the piece that was used for aid. Assuming they ...
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Extending a two bolt anchor with one sling?
I took some kids out climbing last night at a small crag popular for top roping, but I wasn't too impressed with their choice of anchor placements, or lack of additional hardware considering their ...
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What do I need to consider when rock climbing at night?
One of my dream climbs is to climb Snake Dike on Half Dome at night with a full moon.
Are there any special considerations for rock climbing at night beyond bringing headlamps and extra batteries ...
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Top Rope Anchors - is a figure-8 on a bight stronger or just easier to untie than an overhand knot?
I've been learning to build basic TR anchors; a sling clipped to two bolts with a master point in the loop of a figure-eight on a bight. While learning this I struggled to get a tidy figure-eight ...
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Climbing wall on private home
I'm just curious how feasible it is to install a rock climbing wall on the side of a regular, balloon framed house (modern standard in the U.S. and Canada). Would something like that require ...
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What is a "spit anchor"?
In an English climbing guidebook about a French region, I read the term spit anchor in the general description of the equipment of the (multi-pitch) routes of some crags. I never heard that term ...
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Are climbing harnesses tested for upside down falls?
Does anyone know if standard climbing harnesses (not chest harnesses) are actually rated (e.g. tested and certified) for use in upside down falls?
Obviously falling upside down is a bad idea, and we ...
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Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?
Recently I saw an arborist climbing up a single rope with an unbelievable speed, as if it was just a ladder.
Of course he was using all kinds of specialized gear including foot/chest ascenders and I ...
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How can I transfer my weight to a toprope anchor at the bolts?
I'm going to the crag with some friends in a few days and I plan to lead the first route, clip into a quickdraw on one of the anchor bolts and build a top rope anchor on the bolts. I've been ...
user9194
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Online instructional videos for crack climbing [closed]
For technical face climbing, there are some really good online instructional videos (on youtube) by Neil Gresham. Can anyone recommend similar instructional videos for crack technique?
user2169
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What is a splice in spools of tubular webbing?
While trying to answer Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors? I immediately thought about splices in long pieces of webbing. For example, REI says that spools of Blue Water webbing ...
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Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?
I'm signed up for an AMGA single-pitch instructor course (to learn how to teach other people single-pitch climbing). One of the pieces of gear we're supposed to bring is a 30 meter static rope "for ...
user2169
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Is there a general rule for climbing runout grading?
Climbing route grades in Yosemite Decimal System can be suffixed with an "R" to notify a runout. The Wikipedia entry for a runout is
A lengthy distance between two points of protection which in ...
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How should I vet belayers? What should I look for?
The other night I went to the climbing gym, intending to look for a climbing partner once I got there. (My usual gym climbing partner isn't available to climb as often as I want to.) The gym provides ...
user2169
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Is a single strand of webbing unacceptable for climbing anchors?
While browsing the DumbAnchors blog, I came across a post which points out the poor use of a single strand (not a loop) of webbing for building top rope anchors.
The blogger doesn't say why these are ...
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How to get kinks and twists out of a climbing rope?
One complaint about using the Munter hitch for belaying is that it twists and kinks the rope. After doing a full rope length rappel with a Munter hitch down a slightly overhanging face to the base of ...
- 10.7k
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How to use a Munter hitch to belay and rappel?
There seems to be conflicting information on the web about how to use a Munter hitch for belaying and rappelling while rock climbing. The way I learned decades ago is consistent with Nols Wilderness ...
- 10.7k
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What accreditations should a professional rock climbing cams reslinger have?
Rock climbing cams often have integrated slings. Like all webbing, these slings can be degraded by UV and wear out much sooner than the cam themselves. There are numerous companies that will "...
- 10.7k
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How to safely train for and grip pockets?
I was spurred to post this after reading Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing?
Last year I injured myself training on a shallow three finger pocket with an open hand grip and ...
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Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing?
While rock climbing, when crimping a hold, I always use my index finger (and whatever other fingers fit) since I can stack my thumb on top. For two finger pockets is it better to use your index and ...
- 10.7k
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How safe are stoppers/rocks when threaded through rock tunnels?
Last year, I learned that you could thread the wire of stoppers/rocks/hexentrics through tunnels in the rock if threading cord or a sling through them would be too difficult. As a reference, see the ...
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Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
It seems that the majority of professional arborists favor friction hitches that are tied with a free cord rather than a loop:
Blake's Hitch
Schwabisch
Distel
Valdotain Tresse
This is often tied ...
- 9,491
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How do I get my fingers and toes warm before rock climbing at cold temperatures?
I've had now a couple of days when going rock climbing while the temperatures are below the general comfort zone (meaning below 6 °C/ 43 °F).
When starting to climb, my fingers got cold rather fast ...
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What belay systems would work for beginning climbers who can only use one arm?
A friend would like to start climbing but he can only use one arm. I've read about a few people climbing with one arm, but I haven't found advice on which gear to use.
We are only at the beginning of ...
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How do I connect to an Autobelay with a Whillan's harness?
I got a Whillans Harness for Christmas. As it does not have a belay loop (see picture), how do I connect it to the Autobelay's carabiner?
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Monkeys and Rock Climbing
Monkeys are funny, as well as dangerous.
I have already asked a question about how one should go about camping where there are monkeys around: Camping and Monkeys.
The best advice would be to avoid ...
- 31.7k
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Why are these acceptable and safe anchors?
Everyone knows redundancy is chief when building climbing anchors. However, I have seen several types of anchors that don't appear to be fully redundant due to a single ring providing the master point....
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