Questions tagged [sport-climbing]

Roped up climbing with the aim of climbing as difficult as possible. Mostly done at single-pitch routes on natural rock or in climbing gyms. Different style of climbing than bouldering, alpine climbing, and technical or aid climbing.

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3
votes
0answers
100 views

Cotton climbing pants with a zipper pocket (outdoor rock climbing use for small female climbers)

the "politicised" debate of female clothing not having pockets (it is especially about skirts and dresses) left aside, I wonder if there are any cotton climbing pants left on the market that have a ...
6
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2answers
168 views

When clipping into quickdraws, is it dangerous to pass a finger through the gate?

When learning to sport climb, I was taught not to pass any of my fingers through the gate of the carabiner when clipping into a quickdraw. Lest any of my fingers get stuck and degloved in the case of ...
9
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2answers
151 views

How is an attempt defined in sport climbing?

I started to track my finished routes and I cannot find anywhere a definiton of an attempt. Of course if I try to send the route, give up in falf, go down, have a snack and then go again and finish it ...
6
votes
4answers
331 views

Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

Why do climbing professional use less than 5 fingers on some holds? From https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/ I mean, why don't they put the other fingers, even if they don't quite fit, ...
8
votes
1answer
205 views

What safety concerns are there about automatic belay machines?

I have just tried using an automatic belay machine in an indoor climbing gym. I didn't receive any specific safety training, but it seems to be straightforward. So what safety concerns should I pay ...
6
votes
1answer
213 views

Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?

I have a 120cm nylon runner that I want to use to tether me to an anchor bolt while cleaning the anchor. The runner has a small fray (pictures below). Is it safe to use?
8
votes
1answer
3k views

What is the minimum grade of the routes set in the IFSC world cups?

I was recently watching the IFSC world cup held in Meiringen. One of the interesting observations that came across (made by the commentators) in the semis was that the routes were much easier for a ...
7
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3answers
405 views

What kind of ropes are used for very long sport routes (like Chilam Balam)?

This is a question that has bugged me for some time. Some very hard sport routes are very, very long. Some examples: Chilam Balam: 80 m (260 ft) - Video (Adam Ondra) Jumbo Love: 75 m (250 ft) - Video ...
6
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2answers
504 views

Rock climbing grading theory

How to grade a route when cumulating grades for multiple sections? Is it based on the overall feeling of difficulty or is there some cumulative formula to apply which yields a more or less accurate ...
8
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2answers
276 views

When, how and by whom was sport climbing invented?

A comment: One little thing that I understand differently: Sport climbing did not evolve from trad climbing (at least not in the modern sense), but more of artificial climbing. Using gear for ...
11
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4answers
2k views

Does “Sport Climbing” refer to bolted climbing outdoors only or both indoors and outdoors

I was having a debate with my friend on the definition of "Sport Climbing". We both agree it means rock climbing with no pre-setup ropes on a bolted route. I think regardless of whether this route ...
9
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3answers
442 views

What's the easiest way of improving my strength without a large investment of time?

I've been climbing for about 7 years starting when I was 31 years old. Initially I made rapid progress as I learned the various techniques etc, but after about a year I plateaued and I haven't really ...
10
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1answer
476 views

How do I know when to retire a climbing harness?

I've only been climbing a few months. I bought a harness and have been using it. I know they don't last forever. How do I know when to stop using it and buy a new one? (How should I check climbing ...
12
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2answers
3k views

Lead climb weight ratios [duplicate]

I'm about 150ish lbs and my partner is 100ish lbs. I've read somewhere that a 2/3 weight ratio between belayer and climber is ok for lead climb, but I don't remember exactly where. Can someone ...
10
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3answers
1k views

Bouldering, improving and getting up grades

I have been climbing (lead-climbing/top-roping/bouldering) for less than a year now but after quickly improving for the first couple of months I have now reached a "plateau" as they say and I don't ...
15
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6answers
3k views

What to do when you run out of rope on a sports climb?

The situation is, that you started a high route with fixed protection (bolts) and misjudged its length, so before reaching the belay the middle mark of the rope passes the belayer. What can you do to ...
13
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4answers
2k views

Avoiding a “ding-dong” when lead belaying in the gym?

I sometimes climb in the gym with a partner who outweighs me by about 50%. When he's leading and falls from above his protection, I can get pulled up to the first clip. If he's not very far up, this ...
5
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2answers
227 views

Searching for a sport route in the Briançon area, France

I am searching for a limestone multi-pitch sport route in France, in the Briançon area, that is nicely bolted, up to 5c (French grade) difficult and that has at least 7 pitches. I am searching online ...
12
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1answer
198 views

Bolt Conditions at the New River Gorge

I am getting back into sport climbing and I am planning a trip to the NRG. I get very nervous about safety issues in regards to climbing, almost to the point where I don't want to start again. One ...
6
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1answer
375 views

Red River Gorge Summer

I'm planning a rock climbing trip this summer and I've been considering the Red River Gorge as a possible stop. I've been there before in the late fall and it was absolutely awesome in terms of sport ...
10
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1answer
3k views

When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?

From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?
30
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9answers
18k views

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

My girlfriend often complains that a route or boulder was created for tall climbers. In my experience that sometimes is true: I easily get a hold, she has to jump. However, Lynn Hill proved that a ...
25
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4answers
16k views

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs? In order to avoid a strength oriented climbing style and focus on technique.
14
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2answers
558 views

How to go about replacing sport climbing bolts?

There has been handful discussions about How to fix a bolt on a climbing route. But there seldom any point made about How the one should go about when removing/replacing the bolts. When to decide in ...
9
votes
1answer
2k views

How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?

How can I choose the right climbing shoes especially for toe and heel hooking? More specifically: I have been using very comfortable beginner shoes for the last two years. When I started to advance ...
12
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2answers
4k views

Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?

What is recommended after finishing a sport climb--lowering off from the anchors or rappelling ? Rappelling preserves the hardware better, but is usually thought to be more dangerous since you take ...
13
votes
1answer
622 views

Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing

I was doing a sport climb recently where there was a pretty good distance between bolts, resulting in long rope runouts. Falling before the next bolt could easily cause a person to deck on a ledge. ...
30
votes
1answer
51k views

What's the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional Climbing?

What is the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional (Trad) Climbing? Is it just that Sport Climbing uses bolts?