Questions tagged [sport-climbing]
Roped up climbing with the aim of climbing as difficult as possible. Mostly done at single-pitch routes on natural rock or in climbing gyms. Different style of climbing than bouldering, alpine climbing, and technical or aid climbing.
39
questions
3
votes
2
answers
207
views
Soft catch for much lighter climber
One of my friends is just starting to get into lead climbing. I'd like to find some good approaches for providing them with a soft catch if they fall. However, there is a big weight difference ...
- 273
2
votes
1
answer
310
views
Why is it considered good practice to not remain attached to just a Personal Anchor System?
I'm watching videos on how to lower while outdoor climbing (sample video) and it seems that the accepted practice is to always be attached to the wall with both a rope and the PAS. But what is the ...
- 2,829
5
votes
4
answers
1k
views
How do I know the local ettiquete on lowering vs. rappeling?
From reading up on the rappel vs. lower dilemma, I often see references to "local etiquette". For example a related question mentions that:
Some exceptions to the "climber's choice&...
- 2,829
3
votes
4
answers
1k
views
Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?
I started climbing a year ago, at the age of 36. I really enjoy the sport and try to climb a lot.
However, lately I've been thinking if it is possible to achieve anything (worthy of mention) for ...
- 1,738
6
votes
3
answers
325
views
Top rope installation on an anchor
Let's suppose we have two bolts which are connected with a chain and a ring for rappelling at the top of a climbing route and we would like to install a top rope setup.
I hear on a monthly basis that ...
- 959
1
vote
1
answer
511
views
Influence of little finger length on climbing performance
Is there any scientific study in climbing which investigates the length of the little finger compared to the middle finger in terms of climbing performance on a professional level (grade > 5.12)?
...
- 959
9
votes
3
answers
623
views
Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner
I've been shopping for a tri-state self-locking carabiner for clipping into personal anchors but made a mistake and ordered a twist-lock 'biner instead :)
Since product return is a hassle during those ...
- 1,738
3
votes
3
answers
2k
views
How to attach climbing holds / rungs to a tree trunk without harming the tree
I've got a tall tree in the backyard that we use to practice belaying / abseiling (rappelling).
However, the lowest part of the trunk does not have any branches until up to 20' / 6m, so we use a lean-...
- 1,738
9
votes
2
answers
333
views
How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope
How do lead climbing falls add up over time based on their fall ratings?
For example, the rope I have is rated to 8 UIAA falls. A UIAA fall is a fall factor of 1.77. Lets say over the course of a ...
- 93
10
votes
1
answer
434
views
What counts as on- or off-route while outdoor climbing?
I did a few sport climbs this week, and on two, it seemed that the area between bolts was just blank, and if I went to the side it was easier. I could still reach the bolts, but I was afraid I was "...
- 859
3
votes
2
answers
288
views
Jelly Knees while climbing
I have been climbing for more than 10 months now. I had been climbing regularly for 6 months before, unfortunately, I had a 2-3 months break from climbing. When I have gotten back to it now, I find ...
- 165
4
votes
0
answers
169
views
Cotton climbing pants with a zipper pocket (outdoor rock climbing use for small female climbers) [closed]
the "politicised" debate of female clothing not having pockets (it is especially about skirts and dresses) left aside, I wonder if there are any cotton climbing pants left on the market that have a ...
- 109
6
votes
2
answers
1k
views
When clipping into quickdraws, is it dangerous to pass a finger through the gate?
When learning to sport climb, I was taught not to pass any of my fingers through the gate of the carabiner when clipping into a quickdraw. Lest any of my fingers get stuck and degloved in the case of ...
- 357
11
votes
3
answers
818
views
How is an attempt defined in sport climbing?
I started to track my finished routes and I cannot find anywhere a definiton of an attempt. Of course if I try to send the route, give up in falf, go down, have a snack and then go again and finish it ...
- 111
7
votes
4
answers
921
views
Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?
Why do climbing professional use less than 5 fingers on some holds?
From https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/
I mean, why don't they put the other fingers, even if they don't quite fit, ...
8
votes
1
answer
513
views
What safety concerns are there about automatic belay machines?
I have just tried using an automatic belay machine in an indoor climbing gym. I didn't receive any specific safety training, but it seems to be straightforward. So what safety concerns should I pay ...
- 4,409
6
votes
1
answer
381
views
Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?
I have a 120cm nylon runner that I want to use to tether me to an anchor bolt while cleaning the anchor. The runner has a small fray (pictures below). Is it safe to use?
- 269
8
votes
1
answer
6k
views
What is the minimum grade of the routes set in the IFSC world cups?
I was recently watching the IFSC world cup held in Meiringen. One of the interesting observations that came across (made by the commentators) in the semis was that the routes were much easier for a ...
- 7,795
7
votes
3
answers
707
views
What kind of ropes are used for very long sport routes (like Chilam Balam)?
This is a question that has bugged me for some time. Some very hard sport routes are very, very long. Some examples:
Chilam Balam: 80 m (260 ft) - Video (Adam Ondra)
Jumbo Love: 75 m (250 ft) - Video ...
- 907
6
votes
2
answers
761
views
Rock climbing grading theory
How to grade a route when cumulating grades for multiple sections? Is it based on the overall feeling of difficulty or is there some cumulative formula to apply which yields a more or less accurate ...
- 171
8
votes
2
answers
378
views
When, how and by whom was sport climbing invented?
A comment:
One little thing that I understand differently: Sport climbing did not
evolve from trad climbing (at least not in the modern sense), but more
of artificial climbing. Using gear for ...
user2766
11
votes
4
answers
2k
views
Does "Sport Climbing" refer to bolted climbing outdoors only or both indoors and outdoors
I was having a debate with my friend on the definition of "Sport Climbing". We both agree it means rock climbing with no pre-setup ropes on a bolted route.
I think regardless of whether this route ...
- 565
9
votes
3
answers
555
views
What's the easiest way of improving my strength without a large investment of time?
I've been climbing for about 7 years starting when I was 31 years old. Initially I made rapid progress as I learned the various techniques etc, but after about a year I plateaued and I haven't really ...
- 221
11
votes
1
answer
560
views
How do I know when to retire a climbing harness?
I've only been climbing a few months. I bought a harness and have been using it. I know they don't last forever.
How do I know when to stop using it and buy a new one?
(How should I check climbing ...
- 859
12
votes
2
answers
4k
views
Lead climb weight ratios [duplicate]
I'm about 150ish lbs and my partner is 100ish lbs. I've read somewhere that a 2/3 weight ratio between belayer and climber is ok for lead climb, but I don't remember exactly where.
Can someone ...
- 223
11
votes
3
answers
1k
views
Bouldering, improving and getting up grades
I have been climbing (lead-climbing/top-roping/bouldering) for less than a year now but after quickly improving for the first couple of months I have now reached a "plateau" as they say and I don't ...
- 111
15
votes
6
answers
4k
views
What to do when you run out of rope on a sports climb?
The situation is, that you started a high route with fixed protection (bolts) and misjudged its length, so before reaching the belay the middle mark of the rope passes the belayer.
What can you do to ...
- 21.6k
13
votes
4
answers
2k
views
Avoiding a "ding-dong" when lead belaying in the gym?
I sometimes climb in the gym with a partner who outweighs me by about 50%. When he's leading and falls from above his protection, I can get pulled up to the first clip. If he's not very far up, this ...
user2169
5
votes
2
answers
257
views
Searching for a sport route in the Briançon area, France
I am searching for a limestone multi-pitch sport route in France, in the Briançon area, that is nicely bolted, up to 5c (French grade) difficult and that has at least 7 pitches.
I am searching online ...
- 4,565
12
votes
1
answer
240
views
Bolt Conditions at the New River Gorge
I am getting back into sport climbing and I am planning a trip to the NRG.
I get very nervous about safety issues in regards to climbing, almost to the point where I don't want to start again. One ...
- 221
6
votes
1
answer
442
views
Red River Gorge Summer
I'm planning a rock climbing trip this summer and I've been considering the Red River Gorge as a possible stop. I've been there before in the late fall and it was absolutely awesome in terms of sport ...
- 363
10
votes
1
answer
3k
views
When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?
From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?
- 1,481
31
votes
9
answers
22k
views
What are the advantages of being short when climbing?
My girlfriend often complains that a route or boulder was created for tall climbers. In my experience that sometimes is true: I easily get a hold, she has to jump. However, Lynn Hill proved that a ...
- 1,481
25
votes
4
answers
18k
views
What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?
What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?
In order to avoid a strength oriented climbing style and focus on technique.
- 1,481
15
votes
2
answers
837
views
How to go about replacing sport climbing bolts?
There has been handful discussions about How to fix a bolt on a climbing route. But there seldom any point made about How the one should go about when removing/replacing the bolts.
When to decide in ...
- 31.6k
9
votes
1
answer
2k
views
How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?
How can I choose the right climbing shoes especially for toe and heel hooking?
More specifically: I have been using very comfortable beginner shoes for the last two years. When I started to advance ...
- 1,481
13
votes
2
answers
4k
views
Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
What is recommended after finishing a sport climb--lowering off from the anchors or rappelling ? Rappelling preserves the hardware better, but is usually thought to be more dangerous since you take ...
- 3,633
14
votes
2
answers
961
views
Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing
I was doing a sport climb recently where there was a pretty good distance between bolts, resulting in long rope runouts. Falling before the next bolt could easily cause a person to deck on a ledge. ...
- 3,633
32
votes
1
answer
57k
views
What's the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional Climbing?
What is the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional (Trad) Climbing? Is it just that Sport Climbing uses bolts?
- 751