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Questions tagged [sport-climbing]

Roped up climbing with the aim of climbing as difficult as possible. Mostly done at single-pitch routes on natural rock or in climbing gyms. Different style of climbing than bouldering, alpine climbing, and technical or aid climbing.

6
votes
1answer
104 views

Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?

I have a 120cm nylon runner that I want to use to tether me to an anchor bolt while cleaning the anchor. The runner has a small fray (pictures below). Is it safe to use?
8
votes
1answer
1k views

What is the minimum grade of the routes set in the IFSC world cups?

I was recently watching the IFSC world cup held in Meiringen. One of the interesting observations that came across (made by the commentators) in the semis was that the routes were much easier for a ...
6
votes
3answers
279 views

What kind of ropes are used for very long sport routes (like Chilam Balam)?

This is a question that has bugged me for some time. Some very hard sport routes are very, very long. Some examples: Chilam Balam: 80 m (260 ft) - Video (Adam Ondra) Jumbo Love: 75 m (250 ft) - Video ...
6
votes
2answers
291 views

Rock climbing grading theory

How to grade a route when cumulating grades for multiple sections? Is it based on the overall feeling of difficulty or is there some cumulative formula to apply which yields a more or less accurate ...
7
votes
2answers
234 views

When, how and by whom was sport climbing invented?

A comment: One little thing that I understand differently: Sport climbing did not evolve from trad climbing (at least not in the modern sense), but more of artificial climbing. Using gear for ...
11
votes
4answers
2k views

Does “Sport Climbing” refer to bolted climbing outdoors only or both indoors and outdoors

I was having a debate with my friend on the definition of "Sport Climbing". We both agree it means rock climbing with no pre-setup ropes on a bolted route. I think regardless of whether this route ...
9
votes
3answers
394 views

What's the easiest way of improving my strength without a large investment of time?

I've been climbing for about 7 years starting when I was 31 years old. Initially I made rapid progress as I learned the various techniques etc, but after about a year I plateaued and I haven't really ...
9
votes
1answer
403 views

How do I know when to retire a climbing harness?

I've only been climbing a few months. I bought a harness and have been using it. I know they don't last forever. How do I know when to stop using it and buy a new one? (How should I check climbing ...
12
votes
2answers
2k views

Lead climb weight ratios [duplicate]

I'm about 150ish lbs and my partner is 100ish lbs. I've read somewhere that a 2/3 weight ratio between belayer and climber is ok for lead climb, but I don't remember exactly where. Can someone ...
10
votes
3answers
916 views

Bouldering, improving and getting up grades

I have been climbing (lead-climbing/top-roping/bouldering) for less than a year now but after quickly improving for the first couple of months I have now reached a "plateau" as they say and I don't ...
15
votes
6answers
2k views

What to do when you run out of rope on a sports climb?

The situation is, that you started a high route with fixed protection (bolts) and misjudged its length, so before reaching the belay the middle mark of the rope passes the belayer. What can you do to ...
12
votes
3answers
1k views

Avoiding a “ding-dong” when lead belaying in the gym?

I sometimes climb in the gym with a partner who outweighs me by about 50%. When he's leading and falls from above his protection, I can get pulled up to the first clip. If he's not very far up, this ...
5
votes
2answers
192 views

Searching for a sport route in the Briançon area, France

I am searching for a limestone multi-pitch sport route in France, in the Briançon area, that is nicely bolted, up to 5c (French grade) difficult and that has at least 7 pitches. I am searching online ...
11
votes
1answer
177 views

Bolt Conditions at the New River Gorge

I am getting back into sport climbing and I am planning a trip to the NRG. I get very nervous about safety issues in regards to climbing, almost to the point where I don't want to start again. One ...
6
votes
1answer
274 views

Red River Gorge Summer

I'm planning a rock climbing trip this summer and I've been considering the Red River Gorge as a possible stop. I've been there before in the late fall and it was absolutely awesome in terms of sport ...
10
votes
1answer
2k views

When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?

From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?
29
votes
9answers
15k views

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

My girlfriend often complains that a route or boulder was created for tall climbers. In my experience that sometimes is true: I easily get a hold, she has to jump. However, Lynn Hill proved that a ...
24
votes
4answers
13k views

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs? In order to avoid a strength oriented climbing style and focus on technique.
14
votes
2answers
484 views

How to go about replacing sport climbing bolts?

There has been handful discussions about How to fix a bolt on a climbing route. But there seldom any point made about How the one should go about when removing/replacing the bolts. When to decide in ...
9
votes
1answer
2k views

How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?

How can I choose the right climbing shoes especially for toe and heel hooking? More specifically: I have been using very comfortable beginner shoes for the last two years. When I started to advance ...
11
votes
2answers
4k views

Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?

What is recommended after finishing a sport climb--lowering off from the anchors or rappelling ? Rappelling preserves the hardware better, but is usually thought to be more dangerous since you take ...
13
votes
1answer
525 views

Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing

I was doing a sport climb recently where there was a pretty good distance between bolts, resulting in long rope runouts. Falling before the next bolt could easily cause a person to deck on a ledge. ...
27
votes
1answer
37k views

What's the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional Climbing?

What is the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional (Trad) Climbing? Is it just that Sport Climbing uses bolts?