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19 votes
Accepted

Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?

Reading the comments and discussing with other users helped me get a much better idea of the possible causes why we hear of so many hard (sometimes free) ascents on El Capitan and almost none on Half ...
valerio's user avatar
  • 907
18 votes

If the Dawn Wall had been climbed before, why was the 2015 attempt so difficult?

Liam's answer is spot-on, but I would like to add some details. "Dawn wall" is actually not the name of a route, but of a portion of the south-east face of El Capitan, which you can see in the figure ...
valerio's user avatar
  • 907
12 votes

Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?

I wouldn't count ascenders as common climbing gear, so I'm answering for gear that almost every climber has available: An ATC Guide (or Reverso, or similar device with a guide mode) and some cord or ...
anderas's user avatar
  • 4,447
12 votes
Accepted

How to second a "french free" / A0 move?

Assuming a vertical, as opposed to traversing, route that is not overhanging, you unclip the rope from the piece and then pull yourself up just like the leader did. Once you are high enough above the ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
10 votes
Accepted

Explanation of aid climbing grades

I wont cover what is aid climbing here. Original Aid Rating System: A0: Occasional aid moves often done without aiders (etriers) or climbed on fixed gear; sometimes called “French free”. A1: All ...
aaaaargZombies's user avatar
7 votes

Are nuts and cams less safe if the rock is wet?

The short answer to that is yes - but the real answer is it depends. If you are climbing on sandstone, this could actually be very dangerous & unethical. The issue with sandstone is that it tends ...
Francky_V's user avatar
  • 510
7 votes

Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?

I don't have a reference handy but in conversations I've had in the past (several years ago) with people who compete/vie for speed records ascending ropes they exclusively use prusiks. If memory ...
Erik's user avatar
  • 9,648
6 votes

Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?

Now after I got some answers I'd like to post my own observations: The most 'efficient' method I found so far with out using foot ascenders is using two conventional ascenders/(or prussiks/tibloc etc)...
flawr's user avatar
  • 1,747
5 votes

Explanation of aid climbing grades

While most people think that the YDS system is easy compared to the British rating system, I am not sure that is the case. In the YDS system, there is a rating, a grade, and a class. The grade ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
5 votes

Will aid climbing make you a better trad climber?

In aid climbing the frequency of difficult placements and the length of potential falls essentially determines the grade. Basically anything A2/C2 and up is going to require you to use some ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
4 votes

Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?

This may not be the most efficient, but is something I have done with the gear I am always carrying - which to me is more important. On any route where I will be abseiling (or may need to ascend) I ...
SpoonerNZ's user avatar
  • 819
3 votes
Accepted

What qualities should I look for when purchasing aiders/etriers?

Aiders are the key differentiator between aid climbing and free climbing. When free climbing, the gear is just for protection. In aid climbing, you place protection, clip an aider to it, walk up the ...
Desorder's user avatar
  • 2,338
3 votes
Accepted

What do you hang on 1/4" bolts while rock climbing?

Finding quality 1/4" hangers has been problematic for a long time. There was a thread on the topic on Super Topo back in 2009. The best solution back then were the Moses hangers (Moses actually posted ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
3 votes

Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?

Lanyard + 2 ascenders + cordelette. So you have lanyard attached to your harness, and ascenders attached to both arms of the lanyard. You fix ascenders on the rope - one will be above the other. ...
Usurer's user avatar
  • 1,478
2 votes

Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?

"Jumars" are the quickest method to ascend a fixed rope. They are mechanical devices that lock and each attach to your harness and to leg straps of specified lengths so you can step on one then the ...
Joel Kushlan's user avatar
2 votes

Big wall strategies for a three-member team

One issue with Method 1 is that after C3 finishes jugging on R2, C2 needs to be able to pull R2 back to the anchor and attach the pig. If the lower end of R2 is attached to the anchor, then it may ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
2 votes

Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?

Well, this article in National Geographic provides a clue - a number of key areas on the face have become unstable, and a large rockfall has destroyed a section of the Normal Northwest Face. Doesn't ...
Tullochgorum's user avatar
  • 11.7k
1 vote

Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?

I think there's simply more to climb on El Cap. A quick look at the list of established climbs in Yosemite (http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/routes-by-difficulty) reveals that there are way more routes ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
1 vote

Big wall strategies for a three-member team

As with all things climbing, the exact strategies employed will vary with the route/terrain, conditions, and the competencies of the party members. I'll try to give some general guidelines and ...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,207
1 vote

Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?

If you're using snap link instead of a figure 8 or other such device and can rig a Bachmann/carabiner, just detach and climb as if you were just free climbing the rope with the foot scissor/stand ...
Sean Wilson's user avatar

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