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36 votes
Accepted

Why would you climb hard bigwall projects in Yosemite in winter?

I just finished Caldwell's book Push. The big walls in Yosemite are essentially vertical deserts. Even in winter they're in the full sun much of the day. It would drop below freezing at night, but ...
Charles E. Grant's user avatar
19 votes
Accepted

Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?

Reading the comments and discussing with other users helped me get a much better idea of the possible causes why we hear of so many hard (sometimes free) ascents on El Capitan and almost none on Half ...
valerio's user avatar
  • 907
5 votes

Why would you climb hard bigwall projects in Yosemite in winter?

I was there in early January. While the valley was below freezing, upon the first 50 feet climb in elevation after sunrise, the air temperature was very agreeable (50+ °F/10+ °C) with lots of ...
wallyk's user avatar
  • 1,319
2 votes

Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?

Well, this article in National Geographic provides a clue - a number of key areas on the face have become unstable, and a large rockfall has destroyed a section of the Normal Northwest Face. Doesn't ...
Tullochgorum's user avatar
  • 11.7k
2 votes

Big wall strategies for a three-member team

One issue with Method 1 is that after C3 finishes jugging on R2, C2 needs to be able to pull R2 back to the anchor and attach the pig. If the lower end of R2 is attached to the anchor, then it may ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
1 vote
Accepted

How to rig a haul bag so I can move it up/down while midair?

Raising You can improve your system by adding a pulley to tend the Prusik knot. The pulley is placed on the running side of the rope below the load-bearing Prusik, and is then connected to the load-...
Mr.Wizard's user avatar
  • 9,506
1 vote

Why would you climb hard bigwall projects in Yosemite in winter?

No experience of Yosemite weather, and it sounds like you have your answer, and this isn't wrong, but: people don't climb hard projects just to get their name on the problem. That it's difficult is a ...
ANone's user avatar
  • 143
1 vote

Why is (almost) no one climbing hard routes on Half Dome?

I think there's simply more to climb on El Cap. A quick look at the list of established climbs in Yosemite (http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/routes-by-difficulty) reveals that there are way more routes ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
1 vote

Big wall strategies for a three-member team

As with all things climbing, the exact strategies employed will vary with the route/terrain, conditions, and the competencies of the party members. I'll try to give some general guidelines and ...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,207

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