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61 votes

Why is it bad to use your whole foot in rock climbing

It's a matter of practice, but also a matter of feel: When stepping with the front of your foot you have a smaller contact area, so the pressure is higher than using the whole foot. This increases ...
QuantumBrick's user avatar
  • 3,379
36 votes

Why is it bad to use your whole foot in rock climbing

Apart from the reasons already stated, namely getting used to doing it that way as it will help you on smaller footholds, there's also maneuverability: If you step with the entire foot, it is really ...
imsodin's user avatar
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17 votes

Techniques for handling pumped arms?

Answer: What should I do before climbing to increase the amount of time I can climb before my forearms start hurting? There are plenty of opinions on what to do before climbing, stretching is ...
rlynn007's user avatar
  • 426
15 votes

Techniques for handling pumped arms?

Avoiding Pump: Warm up, warm up, warm up. To avoid serious arm pump you need to do at least 15 minutes of EASY climbing. That's 15 minutes of you doing what you feel is exceptionally easy, even if ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
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15 votes
Accepted

Safety precautions for a spotter for his/her own safety

This is not a complete list per se. If bouldering outdoors, particularly with an overhang, wear a helmet. This isn't to protect you from a fall, it's to protect your head for if rocks get knocked ...
nhinkle's user avatar
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14 votes
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How to progress in rock climbing after grades v4 / 5.11+?

Before embarking on specifics, a word of advice: learn to love plateaus. When beginning climbing, we make drastic improvements seemingly every time we go out. As we improve, gains become more and more ...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,252
14 votes
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Are there any concrete techniques for down climbing?

Little excursion up front: If you have problems with joints or back when jumping down, do not ignore that. Either you already have a significant problem with those areas, in which case you should ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
14 votes
Accepted

How are different terrains, defined by their angle, called in climbing?

Your descriptions of the first three angles are pretty spot on. Routes less than 90 degrees would usually be described as a slab. Climbing shoes are usually described as being good for a particular ...
Darren's user avatar
  • 2,433
12 votes

Bouldering, improving and getting up grades

Fall More. If you're not falling a lot, then you're not pushing yourself enough, ergo you won't see much improvement. Grasping a basic understanding of proper climbing technique is what enables most ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
12 votes

Why is it bad to use your whole foot in rock climbing

Using your whole foot while rock climbing is a poor practice in most cases as it restricts your footwork and limits your movement options. When stepping with the front of the shoe you are able to ...
BKlassen's user avatar
  • 750
11 votes
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What to look for in climbing shoes?

Even though you say cost is not a primary factor, I still think it's good to be aware of this point when buying your first climbing shoes when mainly used in gyms (I wasn't aware at the time :) ): ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
9 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

As other people already have mentioned here. In general, it is a disadvantage to be tall. If you look at height-performance profiles in rock climbing, they are generally downward-sloping (meaning the ...
Arne's user avatar
  • 401
9 votes

Origin of the "bell curve" for rock climbing route setting

This piece of advice is commonly given to new routesetters, and should generally be taken as a reminder of best practices rather than scientific dogma. For example, Most climbers don't onsight 5.13 ...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,252
9 votes
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Where can I find videos of rock climbing competitions?

You can find the official Youtube channel of the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) here. They cover all the official events. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2MGuhIaOP6YLpUx106kTQw
Philipp F.'s user avatar
8 votes
Accepted

Correct breathing while bouldering

In various sports and even day-to-day life, breathing techniques make a difference in performance. Generally, you want to breathe deeply, steadily, and with your breathing muscles relaxed. Deep, ...
cr0's user avatar
  • 4,003
8 votes
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What kind of technique is required for bouldering outdoors?

There is no generic answer to your question - it all depends on the kind of boulders you'll encounter on your destination. For example, if you have overhanging jug problems, the technique required is ...
anderas's user avatar
  • 4,447
8 votes

How do I know if I've made a "first ascent"?

There may be "formal" ways to go about this, potentially online, but I know nothing about this, so I hope others can shed light on that aspect. However there is a "traditional" way about this: Phone ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
8 votes
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What is the minimum grade of the routes set in the IFSC world cups?

Regarding Grading That's a very common question for people new to competition climbing. Route setting for competition is in general quite different than for "regular" gym routes. Route setters at ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
7 votes
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How to learn route setting?

It is a lot of trial and error. Setting bouldering problems tends to be easier since they are shorter. The biggest thing to consider is height. Assuming you are reasonably tall individual, solicit ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
7 votes

How to progress in rock climbing after grades v4 / 5.11+?

The existing answers are very good, but I have some tips that were not emphasized enough: Train with friends. You need to be very mature to be able to visualize and correct your own problems by ...
QuantumBrick's user avatar
  • 3,379
7 votes

Why is it bad to use your whole foot in rock climbing

As others have said, it's bad practice to use the arch and heel because (a) it restricts motion when you're going for the next hold, because there's one fewer joint you can bend, and (b) it throws ...
Adam Chalcraft's user avatar
7 votes

How are different terrains, defined by their angle, called in climbing?

A note: terrain, at least in America, is generally described relative to its deviation from vertical, eg. you'd say something is 20 degrees overhung instead of 110 degrees. Then, re:second question, ...
egghorn's user avatar
  • 71
6 votes

How to learn route setting?

Forcing moves is one of the hardest things to accomplish in route setting. In general, setting easy routes is easy, setting hard routes is even easier, but setting beta specific intermediate routes ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
6 votes
Accepted

What are ways to reduce swinging momentum when climbing?

In general the best way to reduce/dampen your swinging is what Desorder mentioned in a comment: You want to exercise your core stability to stop swinging When you strengthen your core then your ...
Erik's user avatar
  • 9,658
6 votes

Techniques for handling pumped arms?

What you can do before a given climb is to warm up, which may involve climbing something easier. I've definitely noticed that I pump out more quickly if I hop directly on a route at my limit, compared ...
Michael Borgwardt's user avatar
6 votes

Are there any concrete techniques for down climbing?

Down climbing is always harder than climbing up, and more dangerous as well. Most serious injuries on mountains occur during the descent. The technique to down climbing a boulder problem is to ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
6 votes

Origin of the "bell curve" for rock climbing route setting

The bell curve in the post you have referenced is simply just a visual representation of some statistics; Namely, the number of climbers the gym serves, that are able to climb at any specific climbing ...
Raz Peel's user avatar
  • 2,712
6 votes
Accepted

How to tape torn skin to continue climbing?

Been there done that, I would just wrap a smaller width piece of climber's tape around the finger and then take extra care to smooth the end down as usually, that's where it starts to come unraveled. ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
6 votes

Historical data about rock climbing / bouldering ascents

Not sure if you're still looking for information on this but the Pinnacle Club (the UK's first women's rock climbing club) have just celebrated their centenary and have put together a website with ...
EmmaL's user avatar
  • 365
5 votes

Are there artificial climbing holds that feel like granite?

With regards to climbing granite, my experience is in western Canada (Skaha, near Penticton BC) and Bishop (California, bouldering spot), Squamish in BC and a few routes on an outcrop near my hometown ...
Francky_V's user avatar
  • 510

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