62 votes

Why is it bad to use your whole foot in rock climbing

It's a matter of practice, but also a matter of feel: When stepping with the front of your foot you have a smaller contact area, so the pressure is higher than using the whole foot. This increases ...
  • 3,313
36 votes

Why is it bad to use your whole foot in rock climbing

Apart from the reasons already stated, namely getting used to doing it that way as it will help you on smaller footholds, there's also maneuverability: If you step with the entire foot, it is really ...
  • 21.6k
21 votes
Accepted

How to "spot" someone who is bouldering?

Basically, "spotting" someone means making sure that they safely land on the pad with their feet first to prevent injuries in case of a fall. This means several distinct tasks: Moving a falling ...
  • 4,417
18 votes

How to "spot" someone who is bouldering?

The job of a spotter is to prevent the climber from landing on their head and (if possible) ensure they land on their feet and on the crashpad. This may involve moving the crashpad (which should ...
17 votes

Shoe sizes for bouldering

Yes, shoe size plays a role which is quite important. But for beginners I would suggest to think more about foot technique than caring about the best possible gear. For climbing shoe sizes I give the ...
  • 12.1k
17 votes
Accepted

How do I get my fingers and toes warm before rock climbing at cold temperatures?

Before the climb As @ShemSeger suggests, most of the work is to be done before the climb itself. You need to stay warm belaying your partner and waiting to climb yourself - if your hands and feet ...
  • 890
17 votes

Techniques for handling pumped arms?

Answer: What should I do before climbing to increase the amount of time I can climb before my forearms start hurting? There are plenty of opinions on what to do before climbing, stretching is ...
  • 426
16 votes
Accepted

Climbing barefoot/in toe-shoes?

I climb barefoot and in vibram five-fingers (KSO's), climbed in them for the first time in 2008 and loved them, where they excel is in roofs and overhanging problems because you can hook holds a lot ...
  • 53.2k
15 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

I am not a very good climber as such, and I am 5'7" only. I think I am dwarf enough to put in my experiences here: As you rightly said, being short can be very frustrating when you don't get to access ...
  • 31.5k
15 votes
Accepted

Safety precautions for a spotter for his/her own safety

This is not a complete list per se. If bouldering outdoors, particularly with an overhang, wear a helmet. This isn't to protect you from a fall, it's to protect your head for if rocks get knocked ...
  • 8,620
15 votes

Techniques for handling pumped arms?

Avoiding Pump: Warm up, warm up, warm up. To avoid serious arm pump you need to do at least 15 minutes of EASY climbing. That's 15 minutes of you doing what you feel is exceptionally easy, even if ...
  • 53.2k
14 votes
Accepted

How to progress in rock climbing after grades v4 / 5.11+?

Before embarking on specifics, a word of advice: learn to love plateaus. When beginning climbing, we make drastic improvements seemingly every time we go out. As we improve, gains become more and more ...
  • 3,823
13 votes

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?

The best single tip I got when I started bouldering (especially overhangs) is If you are reaching for the next hold with your right hand, keep most of the weight on your right foot. If you are ...
  • 231
13 votes
Accepted

Delayed muscle ache after boulder session

Have you ever done any weight training? This kind of "delayed onset muscle soreness" is very common for people beginning a weight training program. This wikipedia page attempts to explain the ...
13 votes

Bouldering beside the freeway

Climbing next to a road is, in general, not a pleasant experience. Any roadside rock face is artificially shaped by the excavation that created it. The rock can be more likely to crumble under you as ...
12 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

As a girl 167cm tall (5'7") I'm on a shorter side of climbers spectra. I believe that while sometimes not being able to reach a hold can mean a no-go on a route, there is plenty of situations where ...
  • 890
12 votes
Accepted

How do you get better at static climbing?

I'm a very static climber, but back in the day I was one of those climbing cave rats who campused and dyno'd his way through as much of a problem as he could. The key to becoming a more static climber,...
  • 53.2k
12 votes

Bouldering, improving and getting up grades

Fall More. If you're not falling a lot, then you're not pushing yourself enough, ergo you won't see much improvement. Grasping a basic understanding of proper climbing technique is what enables most ...
  • 53.2k
11 votes
Accepted

How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?

Here are some features to keep in mind when buying climbing shoes once you're past the beginner phase: Downturned: Most beginner shoes are pretty flat, which are fine for mainly vertical walls. ...
  • 3,603
11 votes
Accepted

Are there any concrete techniques for down climbing?

Little excursion up front: If you have problems with joints or back when jumping down, do not ignore that. Either you already have a significant problem with those areas, in which case you should ...
  • 21.6k
11 votes

Why is it bad to use your whole foot in rock climbing

Using your whole foot while rock climbing is a poor practice in most cases as it restricts your footwork and limits your movement options. When stepping with the front of the shoe you are able to ...
  • 740
11 votes
Accepted

What to look for in climbing shoes?

Even though you say cost is not a primary factor, I still think it's good to be aware of this point when buying your first climbing shoes when mainly used in gyms (I wasn't aware at the time :) ): ...
  • 21.6k
10 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

Not much advantage being a short climber to be honest.I'm probably the shortest around, I'm 5'1" male @ 120lbs and getting stronger in my mid 30's. I can solve most problems, but not all reachy ...
  • 101
10 votes

How do you grade a bouldering problem?

Short answer: Climb lots of other routes in many different areas and have lots of other people climb your routes. Let me get into why you opened a can of worms with your question: Ratings for routes ...
  • 7,471
10 votes

How do I get my fingers and toes warm before rock climbing at cold temperatures?

Warm Your Core! One thing all climbers have in common, is a big poofy down jacket. Your fingers are only going to be as warm as your core is, so keep your core warm, and that nice warm blood will ...
  • 53.2k
9 votes

Climbing barefoot/in toe-shoes?

I'll chime in from a fairly unique position with anecdotal evidence only. I feel like most of the advice you'll get is from experts that talk down to you condescendingly if you even mention the b-...

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