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33 votes
Accepted

Titanium Carabiner: what is its ideal use case?

The important specification is how strong it is and this information seems to be missing. This is included on all climbing rated carabiners for both proper loading (along the long axis) and when it ...
Qudit's user avatar
  • 1,280
27 votes
Accepted

Why are climbing hangers/anchors that thin?

They are that thin because there isn't really a need or desire for them to be thicker. Having them thin makes them lighter and cheaper to manufacture (meaning more people willing to pay for them and ...
noah's user avatar
  • 4,053
24 votes

Specific Chinese carabiner QA?

This item might be identical to a certified one, but the seller is clearly not aware of certifications, so you should assume it is not certified - in short: Do not use this carabiner for safety-...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
16 votes
Accepted

What is a nose-hooked carabiner and why is it dangerous?

To put it simply, it is when the nose of the carabiner gets hooked onto something, which reduces its strength dramatically. This happens by preventing the carabiner gate from closing and keeping it in ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
13 votes
Accepted

What are opposite and opposed carabiners?

This is what a diagram of opposite and opposed carabiners looks like. The gates are on opposite sides and form a X when laid over the top of each other. The purpose of doing this is to make it ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
11 votes

Specific Chinese carabiner QA?

The main issue is that fraud and misrepresentation is rife in the chinese manufacturing sector. When I was working in outdoors retail, I saw a couple press releases where Petzl was facing ...
Gabriel's user avatar
  • 5,055
11 votes

Titanium Carabiner: what is its ideal use case?

All useful [climbing] carabiners will have a rated weight, engraved on them, usually in kN (kilonewton). Even non-climbing ones should have a rated weight. Based on the picture, and the description,...
coteyr's user avatar
  • 2,800
11 votes

Why are twist-lock carabiners considered dangerous for some applications?

A rope running across the rotating sleeve of a twist-lock gate can open the karabiner. Background There are different types of locking gates on karabiners: Screw gates: These have a threaded sleeve ...
Mehmet Karatay's user avatar
10 votes
Accepted

How does a carabiner handle make sense?

For me it seems to be more a fashion thing than extremely useful. Of course you can clip the mug to the outside of your backpack or anywhere on the campside but I doubt you really need this. ...
Wills's user avatar
  • 12.2k
10 votes
Accepted

Why are large/pear shaped locking carabiners called HMS carabiners?

These types of carabiners are designed to be used with a Munter Hitch. The Munter Hitch was created by a Swiss mountain guide named Werner Munter who called it, Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning half ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
8 votes
Accepted

Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner

Nobody ever complained of having too many carabiners; you did not waste your money no matter what you do with it right now. Clip it to a stopper knot on the end of your reserve/back-up rope, or use it ...
Jimmy Fix-it's user avatar
7 votes
Accepted

How do you set up a z-pulley?

Basically it looks like this. The rope goes from the object to a caribiner that is hooked into the anchor. Then it goes back down to where a prussik and a caribiner have been hooked to the rope going ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
7 votes

How does a carabiner handle make sense?

One real advantage is that a metal carabiner will rattle against a metal mug. Build the carabiner into the handle and that can't happen. This rattling may be simply annoying most of the time, but if ...
Chris H's user avatar
  • 26.6k
6 votes
Accepted

What's the proper way to establish a triaxial connection with carabiners?

If you want one point and multiple things to connect to it, then what you do is create a master point with rope or cordellete and attach your carabiners to it. Usually the master point is a a ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
5 votes

A method to retrieve a carabiner

I believe that what you are referring to is called the "Texas Rope Trick". I hope that it's obvious that this is an incredibly risky idea and that you are better off just leaving the carabiner.
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
5 votes
Accepted

Using Gri Gri 2's Carabiner with Another Belay Device?

The reasons for this recommendation are the same as with the recommendation to never use the rock side biner of a quickdraw with a rope. In both cases there is metal-metal contact. This leads to ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
5 votes

Can I re-use a via ferrata carabiner/harness for climbing?

The carabiners are definitely good to go as those are pretty standard ratings. Most climbers using climbing harnesses and not body harnesses, I would suggest that you buy a climbing harness as I think ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
5 votes

Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner

I've used a twist lock carabiner to secure a water bottle holder or glasses case to a bag. When travelling in a city, this prevents opportunist thieves from easily unhooking the item from my bag.
Matthew Martin's user avatar
4 votes

What's the proper way to establish a triaxial connection with carabiners?

You could use a triple butterfly knot, some call them alpine butterfly loop knots or simply multi-loop knots. They can be tied with single loops, double loops, and triple loops. No collection/rigging ...
Jimmy Fix-it's user avatar
4 votes

Specific Chinese carabiner QA?

These look like the Carabiners frequently used on Via Ferrata climbing kits. See for example these images on google. I am certain that you can find such carabiners from respectable brands with a ...
fgysin's user avatar
  • 13k
4 votes
Accepted

Is there any evidence that attaching a biner to both seat and leg loops results in a 3-way load?

Consider this Black Diamond Harness, Image Source as you will notice, there is no belay loop at all. This is how the directions show one belaying with it. However, this type of harness is designed ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
3 votes

Why are carabiners so much weaker if the gate is open?

Let's go to the source and watch some carabiners getting broken! Black Diamond Neutrino Testing Black Diamond wire-gate, open configuration Metolius Carabiner Testing While these videos show wire-...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,252
3 votes

Is there any evidence that attaching a biner to both seat and leg loops results in a 3-way load?

All harness manufacturers instruct users to put carabiners through the belay loop and not the tie-in points. Petzl has it in their manual: Black Diamond's Director of Global Quality Kolin Powick (...
Felix's user avatar
  • 6,869
3 votes

Titanium Carabiner: what is its ideal use case?

Titanium doesn't rust (or at least, doesn't rust in the timeframe that this gear is typically used for) so this could be a good piece of kit for a surfer or diver. You could hang keys or a ...
Greenstone Walker's user avatar
3 votes

Can anyone ID this hitch?

This appears to be the Single Hook Hitch (ABOK #1886), of course by then intended for hooks, not carabiners, and therefore in the chapter about about hitches on hooks (the whale icon designates it as &...
phipsgabler's user avatar
  • 1,569
2 votes

Is there any evidence that attaching a biner to both seat and leg loops results in a 3-way load?

I can only agree with the previous answers that clipping into the tie in points just increases the risk of the carabiner not being loaded as designed. And there have been accidents of carabiners not ...
flawr's user avatar
  • 1,747
2 votes

Recommended carabiner for belaying with Grigri and Giga Jul?

The manufacturers give these recommendations: Device Technical info diagram text Petzl GriGri Why this choice? The D shape helps resist carabiner rotation. There is only one device to attach, ...
iacobo's user avatar
  • 133
1 vote

Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner

You could consider using a twist lock where you would normally use a non-locking snap-gate or wire-gate karabiner but want just a little more security. An example could be on a quickdraw to use on a ...
Mehmet Karatay's user avatar

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