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38

A carabiner is designed to be loaded only along the long axis, near the spine (leftmost figure below). It will be weaker in any other direction of stress. Primary long-axis strength should be marked on the carabiner spine with an up-down arrow symbol, and is typically given in kilo-Newtons (one kN equals approximately 225 pounds of force). Cross-loading ...


33

The important specification is how strong it is and this information seems to be missing. This is included on all climbing rated carabiners for both proper loading (along the long axis) and when it is cross loaded across the gate. You should never use a non-rated carabiner for a critical application. Most likely, there is a reason why it is not rated. ...


24

Hanging things on your pack Hanging things on that little loop at the top of your tent (like a nightlight) We use ours to lift and hang our packs As a simple pulley to change direction of a pull (less abrasive to your rope than a tree)


24

This item might be identical to a certified one, but the seller is clearly not aware of certifications, so you should assume it is not certified - in short: Do not use this carabiner for safety-relevant applications. The description on ebay says The ultimate tension: 25KN CE Certification "ultimate tension" is not a term used to describe ...


20

Give them to those who need them. First of all, novice students in your gym or mountaineering school will be happy to use a bit heavier/older gear, but ease the burden of buying everything for their first trip. Just make sure that carabiners are safe, because the newbies can't tell themselves. Then, any local non-commercial groups, who organize rope fun ...


17

You probably already do this, but make sure you mark all 'retired' carabiners with their own color of tape so that you never accidentally climb with one. Then let the fun begin. If you do any backpacking, they are extremely useful for attaching things to your backpack. A few other favorites: dog leashes, making clotheslines, or use with hammocks. If you'...


16

To put it simply, it is when the nose of the carabiner gets hooked onto something, which reduces its strength dramatically. This happens by preventing the carabiner gate from closing and keeping it in a position that results in a catastrophic load pattern. This can happen for instance when sport climbing and one goes to clip a bolt and by mistake one does ...


14

As Hillsons suggested a good way to use it, let me put in what I would do: You can use it as a Weight. Simply knot a carabiner to the end of a rope that needs slinging over a pole or onto a roof. The weight helps with accuracy. Clip keys inside backpacks to loops for extra security Link a few together for your kid to play with while you are shopping. Attach ...


12

You can drill some holes in your carabiner and use it as handle for mugs and other things in your home you need to lift. mug example


12

It represents a two major things. I'm not going to illustrate, but the core of it is: Don't load carabiners across the gate or spine side of the carbiner (i.e. the side opposite the gate). This is pretty obvious, but happens sometimes when you make an anchor or whip out a quick draw and then load it without getting all the carabiners in-line with the ...


12

This is what a diagram of opposite and opposed carabiners looks like. The gates are on opposite sides and form a X when laid over the top of each other. The purpose of doing this is to make it difficult for both gates to open at the same time, because even if the rope doesn't slip out, a carabiner with the gate open is much weaker. Notice that even if one ...


11

If you want to store your hiking poles on the outside of your pack I find a carabiner works quite well as a stirrup for holding the lower parts of the poles. I also put a lot of my loose items on one in the top pouch of my pack including, headlamp, lighter (on a keychain ring), multi-tool, flashlight, keys, etc. Easier to add/remove items than on those ...


11

If you're handy with welding (or a drill and screws, brackets, or a hot glue gun), you can make a pretty cool coat rack or key rack out of old carabiners. You can remove the gate for a coat rack by knocking or drilling or cutting off the pins, or leave them on if you're making a key holder. Just attached the carabiners with the hook down and out from the ...


11

The main issue is that fraud and misrepresentation is rife in the chinese manufacturing sector. When I was working in outdoors retail, I saw a couple press releases where Petzl was facing counterfeiting from China. The copies were visually identical, down to the packaging and tags. Of course, when tested, they failed at significantly lower forces than what ...


10

For me it seems to be more a fashion thing than extremely useful. Of course you can clip the mug to the outside of your backpack or anywhere on the campside but I doubt you really need this. Nevertheless, you can upgrade nearly anything in outdoor business with a biner - it's just cool and you look like a real outdoorsman with all the handy carabiners ;) ...


10

The method by which carabiners in any color are coated (either gate or body) is anodizing, which is going to be nearly impossible to sufficiently replicate with anything practical and cost-effective at home. With anodizing, the coating essentially becomes part of the aluminum itself. So anything you put on the gate will wear off relatively quickly and ...


10

This is probably going to be an unpopular opinion because it's not nearly as "feel good" as helping remote Asian herdsmen. (Which incidentally is probably one of few exceptions to what follows.) Nevertheless: It is my belief that unsafe carabiners should be destroyed. In my opinion it is too great a risk that someone will get ahold of one and see that it ...


10

Store your sandals or boots on the hip belt of your pack, while walking barefoot. Hook small items to your pants belt rings - while camping or in the city. Hook the nylon pouch, used to collect rubbish, to a tree branch (no one will step in it). Hang your sunglasses pouch to the plastic rings on the shoulder straps for easy access. Secure your travel mug to ...


10

All useful [climbing] carabiners will have a rated weight, engraved on them, usually in kN (kilonewton). Even non-climbing ones should have a rated weight. Based on the picture, and the description, I would use that one for decoration. It's not meant for climbing, it's too awkwardly shaped and the "clip" part looks way too flimsy, not to mention the ...


9

You can largely mitigate the problem by braking to the front and keeping tension on the carabiner throughout by pressing the system away from your body, rather than braking to the side. Nevertheless (as mentioned) these specialized carabiners may add some comfort: Black Diamond Gridlock and Magnetron Gridlock DMM Belay Master C.A.M.P. HMS Belay Lock ...


8

These types of carabiners are designed to be used with a Munter Hitch. The Munter Hitch was created by a Swiss mountain guide named Werner Munter who called it, Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning half clove hitch belay. Source The abbreviation for Halbmastwurfsicherung is HMS and that is why the large/pear shaped carabiners are called HMS carabiners.


7

One real advantage is that a metal carabiner will rattle against a metal mug. Build the carabiner into the handle and that can't happen. This rattling may be simply annoying most of the time, but if you're looking for wildlife (whether to watch it or shoot it) is going to disturb your quarry. If you just move around while others are asleep, or trying to ...


7

Keeping some outward tension on the belay device really helps. If you're toprope belaying you should already be doing this, if you're lead belaying basically keep the climber locked off unless you are feeding slack. The other important factor is to make sure your belay device is through the belay loop, not the two tie-in points. All harness manufacturers ...


7

I think this depends on what exactly you want the carabiners for. Most hardware stores carry a variety of carabiners in a range of sizes, weights, and purposes. The "S-Biner", for example, is a cheap, stainless steel multi-purpose clip. I use them for all sorts of household things and while camping, but there aren't really any ways to use them climbing. You'...


7

Unfortunately nail polish would probably gunk up the locking mechanism. I wouldn't put nail polish on any moving piece of a carabiner. You can use nail polish to mark your gear so you know that it's yours (and not your partner's). You may be able to find a multi-color scheme that indicates the carabiner's date, but generally that's not an issue (if it ...


7

Basically it looks like this. The rope goes from the object to a caribiner that is hooked into the anchor. Then it goes back down to where a prussik and a caribiner have been hooked to the rope going to the object. Then you take the rope through the caribiner, back towards the anchor. To make it easier one could use pulleys instead of caribiners. For ...


6

Nail polish is the way to go. Everyone I know, including myself, uses it to identify whose gear is whose.


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