16
votes
Accepted
Is this anchor set up right?
I couldn't have come up with a better example of "how carabiners should never be used" if I tried!
In fact, the most likely explanation for that picture is either such a deliberate bad example, or a ...
- 5,163
15
votes
Accepted
Why are these acceptable and safe anchors?
I happen to know for a fact that the steel ring in those anchor set ups is rated to 50kN. That's as much as both hangers combined, they're only rated to 25kN each, which is still double the force any ...
- 53.1k
13
votes
Accepted
Is it ok to use rolled aluminum descending rings in permanent anchors?
No
It is not ok to use that type of descending ring for fixed anchors.
SMC Descending Rings are a one-piece aluminum ring which are intended to be placed at the top of a pull down rappel in place of ...
- 53.1k
13
votes
Is this anchor set up right?
If it is load bearing, then hell no. This is a mess of cross- and ring-loading, which will break the biners.
If it is just a material storage placement, then it is simply confusing. And of what I know ...
- 21.6k
12
votes
Accepted
Is a single strand of webbing unacceptable for climbing anchors?
As with most things in climbing, I myself would not go as far as saying this is generally unacceptable. In multipoint anchors there are often single strand connections between one point and the ...
- 21.6k
12
votes
Accepted
How should I choose between setting up a Cordelette or an Equalette climbing anchor?
I've had to deal with this question a lot teaching anchor building. When people have asked in the past I normally suggest they use the anchor you are most comfortable setting up, as they will both ...
- 2,702
12
votes
Rappelling from tree
Was it safe? Yes, you were not in any danger here (unless your tree was a Charlie Brown Christmas tree).
Was it the best thing to do? No, for a couple of reasons, the most important being that it ...
- 53.1k
12
votes
Accepted
Extending a two bolt anchor with one sling?
Webbing/cord and bolts
I always learned that bolts and any kind of webbing or cord is a no-go. Even if the edges are not sharp the webbing/cord is bent around a very small radius which weakens it ...
- 21.6k
11
votes
Accepted
What is an equalette anchor?
The equalette is the evolution and combination of the cordalette and sliding-x. It makes up for the short comings of each system, while incorporating their strengths to produce a more SRENE anchor.
...
- 53.1k
10
votes
Accepted
Should I be using Dyneema slings for lead climbing anchors?
See: Slings for anchoring and lanyard in rock climbing
Different question, but but it contains a lot of the same releveant information for an answer to this one also; basically either one will work ...
- 2,702
10
votes
Accepted
Lowering other members of a party on belay after rappelling
Here is what I don't like about your plan, the less experienced people will be tying themselves in without you present and the last person won't have a second pair of eyeballs to double check that ...
- 68.9k
9
votes
Accepted
Bolting Canyons, can your bolt be under water?
This got me curious, & using Expansion anchors in construction applications got me looking. While I couldn't find anything specific to climbing applications & submersion, I did find a ...
- 1,658
9
votes
Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?
In addition to the other answer I'd like to add that ropes are way safer than webbing in a scenarion where it actually comes in contact with rock. This is the case in top rope anchors when you have to ...
- 1,727
9
votes
Accepted
Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?
Retire that sling. Use it for some handicraft work at home or similar.
Firstly: If in doubt about a piece of gear, don't entrust your live to it.
Doing a more detailed analysis without seeing it in ...
- 21.6k
9
votes
Can I make a safe climbing-anchor with a 2-ton working-load sling that was meant for lifting vehicles?
I think this falls into that grey area where you shouldn't do it but it probably won't cause problems if you really want to use it.
I personally wouldn't use it. There's so much quality climbing gear ...
- 9,628
8
votes
Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?
Static rope may not be that much more expensive than equivalent tape and is certainly a lot more versatile. In particular rope gives you a lot more options for reliable knots which are also be ...
- 6,192
8
votes
Accepted
How much stronger is a vertical v-thread than a horizontal one?
TL;DR
Vertical oriented V-threads (A-threads) are significantly stronger than horizontally aligned V-threads. The following numbers should not be taken at face value: Different test configurations ...
- 21.6k
8
votes
Can you clean new bolt holes with water?
Disclaimer: This answer reflects nothing else than my own opinion on this subject, since I've never used water to clean holes nor know anyone that does so.
So, first thing I'd like to ask you is: ...
- 3,313
8
votes
Lowering other members of a party on belay after rappelling
Extending everyone's rappels and tying everyone into the rope before the first person descends is the proper, safest way to do things, unless you wanted all the followers to tie an autoblock as well. ...
- 53.1k
7
votes
Accepted
Rappelling from tree
Short answer: If the tree is a living and thick one, then it was OK.
That being said, there are several reasons you should had done a proper anchor with multiple points (trees, in this case) and ...
- 4,555
7
votes
Accepted
V-threads (Abalakov): How many holes are too many?
Will Gadd's book Ice & Mixed Climbing states that if you mess up the first attempt at a V-thread, start over in clean ice. This includes if your screw holes intersect only partway down the hole, ...
- 6,769
7
votes
Learning Anchors - How is single cordelette loop anchor redundant?
On cordelettes:
A cordelette used to set up a 3 point anchor will have three loops of rope above the knot (one per piece) and three loops below. The knot itself will have 6 strands of rope running ...
- 8,368
7
votes
When making an anchor with static rope around a boulder, what knot should I use
Your current choices are good.
For a fixed loop in the middle of a rope, an alpine butterfly is a solid choice. I can think of alternatives, but no really better ones.
For a loop at the end of the ...
- 1,887
7
votes
What to do when one point in a climbing anchor breaks?
I disagree with the other answer. If you are anchored to 2 "solid" pieces and one fails, you are now in a non-redundant state and your goal should be to resolve that situation as quickly and safely as ...
- 10.6k
7
votes
Accepted
Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner
Nobody ever complained of having too many carabiners; you did not waste your money no matter what you do with it right now. Clip it to a stopper knot on the end of your reserve/back-up rope, or use it ...
- 634
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