20
votes
Accepted
Why are these acceptable and safe anchors?
I happen to know for a fact that the steel ring in those anchor set ups is rated to 50kN. That's as much as both hangers combined, they're only rated to 25kN each, which is still double the force any ...
- 53.5k
16
votes
Accepted
Is this anchor set up right?
I couldn't have come up with a better example of "how carabiners should never be used" if I tried!
In fact, the most likely explanation for that picture is either such a deliberate bad example, or a ...
- 5,153
13
votes
Is this anchor set up right?
If it is load bearing, then hell no. This is a mess of cross- and ring-loading, which will break the biners.
If it is just a material storage placement, then it is simply confusing. And of what I know ...
- 21.7k
12
votes
Accepted
Is a single strand of webbing unacceptable for climbing anchors?
As with most things in climbing, I myself would not go as far as saying this is generally unacceptable. In multipoint anchors there are often single strand connections between one point and the ...
- 21.7k
12
votes
Accepted
Extending a two bolt anchor with one sling?
Webbing/cord and bolts
I always learned that bolts and any kind of webbing or cord is a no-go. Even if the edges are not sharp the webbing/cord is bent around a very small radius which weakens it ...
- 21.7k
10
votes
Accepted
Lowering other members of a party on belay after rappelling
Here is what I don't like about your plan, the less experienced people will be tying themselves in without you present and the last person won't have a second pair of eyeballs to double check that ...
- 69.2k
9
votes
Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?
In addition to the other answer I'd like to add that ropes are way safer than webbing in a scenarion where it actually comes in contact with rock. This is the case in top rope anchors when you have to ...
- 1,747
9
votes
Can I make a safe climbing-anchor with a 2-ton working-load sling that was meant for lifting vehicles?
I think this falls into that grey area where you shouldn't do it but it probably won't cause problems if you really want to use it.
I personally wouldn't use it. There's so much quality climbing gear ...
- 9,678
8
votes
Lowering other members of a party on belay after rappelling
Extending everyone's rappels and tying everyone into the rope before the first person descends is the proper, safest way to do things, unless you wanted all the followers to tie an autoblock as well. ...
- 53.5k
8
votes
Can you clean new bolt holes with water?
Disclaimer: This answer reflects nothing else than my own opinion on this subject, since I've never used water to clean holes nor know anyone that does so.
So, first thing I'd like to ask you is: ...
- 3,379
8
votes
Accepted
How much stronger is a vertical v-thread than a horizontal one?
TL;DR
Vertical oriented V-threads (A-threads) are significantly stronger than horizontally aligned V-threads. The following numbers should not be taken at face value: Different test configurations ...
- 21.7k
8
votes
Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?
Static rope may not be that much more expensive than equivalent tape and is certainly a lot more versatile. In particular rope gives you a lot more options for reliable knots which are also be ...
- 6,202
8
votes
Accepted
Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?
Retire that sling. Use it for some handicraft work at home or similar.
Firstly: If in doubt about a piece of gear, don't entrust your live to it.
Doing a more detailed analysis without seeing it in ...
- 21.7k
7
votes
When making an anchor with static rope around a boulder, what knot should I use
Your current choices are good.
For a fixed loop in the middle of a rope, an alpine butterfly is a solid choice. I can think of alternatives, but no really better ones.
For a loop at the end of the ...
- 1,952
7
votes
What to do when one point in a climbing anchor breaks?
I disagree with the other answer. If you are anchored to 2 "solid" pieces and one fails, you are now in a non-redundant state and your goal should be to resolve that situation as quickly and safely as ...
- 10.7k
7
votes
Can an overhand loop be used to shorten nylon webbing as a personal anchor?
You should worry about the opposite: An overhand knot on nylon webbing will get really tight and hard to undo once no longer in use. That's why I rather use a figure-eight in this scenario (double ...
- 21.7k
7
votes
Accepted
Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner
Nobody ever complained of having too many carabiners; you did not waste your money no matter what you do with it right now. Clip it to a stopper knot on the end of your reserve/back-up rope, or use it ...
- 644
6
votes
How can I transfer my weight to a toprope anchor at the bolts?
I wouldn't do this the way you propose. If I understand you correctly, you want to clip the top bolt, then have your belayer hold your weight while you set up a top anchor, and you want to know how to ...
- 53.5k
6
votes
How can I transfer my weight to a toprope anchor at the bolts?
You are clearly overthinking this. Even if your are hanging freely, you should be able to take away your weight from the rope by pulling on gear and unclip the quickdraw (there is nothing that can go ...
- 21.7k
6
votes
Top Rope Anchors - is a figure-8 on a bight stronger or just easier to untie than an overhand knot?
This answer does not provide much new information to Ben Crowell's and Charlie Brumbaugh's, but I am not entirely in agreement with all their different conclusions.
TLDR:
In your use case and most use ...
- 21.7k
6
votes
Accepted
What's the proper way to establish a triaxial connection with carabiners?
If you want one point and multiple things to connect to it, then what you do is create a master point with rope or cordellete and attach your carabiners to it.
Usually the master point is a a ...
- 69.2k
6
votes
Accepted
Is there a reasonable way to build a toprope anchor if the only available natural anchor points are greater than 90 degrees apart?
Assuming there is no option to add cams, nuts or bolts where you want, I see the following options:
extend the anchor so far that the angle gets below 90 degrees. This is obviously limited by the ...
- 7,020
5
votes
Extending a two bolt anchor with one sling?
It is hard to tell from the photo exactly how the carabiner would be loaded if clipped directly to the bolts. I think of cross loading as when the carabiner is weighted along the minor (short) axis. I ...
- 10.7k
5
votes
Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?
It's not specifically answering your question (I don't use either rope or webbing in my anchors, yet) but I really wanted to say that I'm a huge fan of having a chunk of static rope near my anchors. ...
- 1,450
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