26

You probably should not use it any more. Old ropes seem to be surprisingly strong. A German mountaineering magazine made tests with old ropes. Of 14 tested ropes, 10 would still have been strong enough to lead on them without risk. However, these were unused or only little used ropes. The results may differ for ropes that have been used very often or have ...


19

To me, and I'm no climber, this is about outdoor activities in general. You could equally ask why people kayak in the wilds rather than going to the artificial whitewater centre that's always reliable, or why I spent all of yesterday cycling through headwinds and a hailstorm rather than sitting on a spin bike in the gym for 12 hours. For many of us there ...


16

Every time a climber finds a way to place more fingers on a hold, he/she will. If he/she is not using all fingers, it's because: They're training their fingers to get stronger, It's impossible to place more fingers on the hold, They have injured fingers they do not want to use and worsen, They're careless because the route is too easy for them.


16

This touches quite a lot of different dimensions so it will be hard to answer everything in a single post. One of the appeals of climbing outdoors is that it is outdoors. Consider a nice sunny day in spring. Would you rather climb in a crowded, loud and dusty gym without much daylight or outside in the warm sun? For me, the choice is quite clear. (This is ...


12

Special devices: @imsodin is right in suggesting a GriGri. For the method: The common trick is to have two "belayers." One attaches the GriGri on their harness as usual. The second person stands facing the primary belayer and pulls hand over hand on the rope (essentially pulling away from the primary belayer, through the GriGri). The primary belayer can ...


12

When racking up, you have a spectrum of possibilities between two extremes: At one end, you could put every single piece of gear on the same carabiner. While the weight savings would be incredible, it would be an absolute pain to place a piece. At the opposite end, you could rack every single piece of pro on its own carabiner. You pay a penalty in weight (...


12

I am sure there is no simple formula to add everything up as the load of a high factor fall is not increasing linearly. There have been experiments conducted by Pit Schubert in which he tested a rope with repeated falls on factor 0.35-0.45 on a rope rated to 5 falls with an 80 kilo mass. (Basically the norm just with a low fall factor) He reports that the ...


11

I think it is easiest to understand if you think about a small pocket where you can fit a single finger in deeply and securely or jam two fingers in poorly. While it is always nice to distribute the weight between two fingers instead of one finger, sometimes the grip you get on a hold is much better with one finger than with two fingers. For the hold shown ...


11

Mainly a gym climber here as well, no lengths just bouldering. Some reasons why outdoor climbing is appealing to me and others I climb with; most of these are obviously about personal preferences of course, so YMMV: It's outdoors, some people like spending time outdoors. More often than not boulders are located in nice scenery, really 'in nature'. Most gyms ...


11

No, it’s not worth the risk. Ropes aren’t that expensive and if it breaks you could hurt yourself.


11

P.S.: I just noticed the question explicitly said indoors! My answer ended up being considerably more general than required... But well, the logic is the same as in case (a): Indoors the bolts are really close, so you should climb (or downclimb) to the nearest one and attach yourself to the fixed quickdraw using the harness belay loop. Both options you ...


10

Even though you say cost is not a primary factor, I still think it's good to be aware of this point when buying your first climbing shoes when mainly used in gyms (I wasn't aware at the time :) ): This won't be your last pair of climbing shoes, you'll need new ones quite soon due to the sole wearing through. Therefore you don't need to get the perfect ...


9

In aid climbing this is still sending since hanging on protection is part of the game (as @StrongBad points out, hanging on the rope is a little different than hanging on protection.) In sport climbing, however, there is no specific word or phrase. I think the most common ways to describe it are: Projecting As in "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a." This doesn'...


9

One key aspect that has not been mentioned: routefinding indors is almost trivial, outdoors it becomes a real challenge and makes climbing a much more creative experience. In the gym, hold color (or tape) tells you exactly what features "exist" that you could use to proceed, and the number you can reach at a given point is usually small, half a dozen at ...


9

Professional use These devices are intended for professional rope work. When doing rope access work, there are typically two ropes involved. One is the working line which is loaded with the worker's weight. The second rope is a backup line which is only loaded in case the working line fails. An arrester device is running along on the backup rope and moving ...


8

Full body harnesses are not used because of: Weight (for obvious reasons) Bulk (Getting all gear to your climbing desintation can be a chore. Everything else being equal, a more packable harness is preferred) Freedom of movement (a full body harness hinders arm movements) Clothing (Taking a jacket on and off with a body harness is a mess) Instead, ...


7

In his book "The Push" he describes this a bit. Most of the time they were using a running belay which means they were climbing at the same time with some pieces of protection in between them to avoid a deadly fall. This technique allows to climb very long "pitches" with a normal length rope. Once the leader runs out of gear, he makes a belay and belays the ...


7

The Yosemite bowline is just a simple bowline with a Yosemite finish. This finish can also be used with other knots, such as the figure 8. It is fail-proof for the figure 8 case, meaning that if you make it wrong the knot will compensate your mistake by tightening the rope on the correct spots. It is not fail-proof when used together with the bowline, as can ...


6

There are several scenarios but they all boil down to not using the brake hand but instead hoping the device will catch or improperly sized ropes. 1) with super-skinny ropes; 2) an extremely light climber; 3) routes with bulges or significant rope drag that reduce the forces of a fall; and 4) hanging on the rope (versus falling) mid-...


6

I'd very much recommend using a GriGri or one of the newer device with the same mechanism. Reason being, the braking mechanism is not dependent on the position of the braking hand. Thus you can pull in rope in whatever way you want, as long as you have the braking strand in any of your hands at any point it's safe. This removes a lot of the stress as ...


6

I would definitely discourage this. Accidentially releasing the device is dangerous and can lead to fatal incidents. Moreover, releasing the device is rarely needed to my experience. Therefore this does not make the risk any more acceptable. An engaged ATC in guidemode can easily be released by hooking a carabiner into the little hole at the front and ...


5

One possibility: Check out the home improvement store. Check the tool section. You can get all sorts of attachments for tool belts, including ones to carry things like a cell phone. They aren't rigid. If rock climbing I'd use this and something like an Otter Case to protect the phone itself. They don't have a ring for a 'biner, but they do have a loop ...


5

It's unclear if you're asking about sewn slings or single lengths of webbing--so I'll answer each separately below. The most important thing when using webbing (sewn loop slings or single lengths) is that any knots should leave the webbing laying flat. There should be as few twists as possible in your system, and none in the knot itself, as these decrease ...


5

Look for any type of line that is meant for running rigging on a sailboat. These lines are made to work with pulleys or block and tackle systems, they have very good strength with more than adequate working load limits, and they can withstand the weather for quite a while. The main idea is to have a polyester sheath for UV protection. For a backup, I would ...


4

Strictly speaking, the system you propose (fix each strand of the rope to one anchor, rappel with the same device) is not fully redundant as you still have the device, carabiner and your harness as single points of failure. If you disregard that point and simply want redundancy against rope failure, then, yes, fixing the strands to their own anchors is more ...


4

Even though I am late on this, I'd like to try to give you some answers on your questions. I am volunteering in the german mountain rescue service, but I am in no way an expert in climbing security - so please take everything below with a grain of salt. 1.1 We use redundancies for virtually every type of rescue but there is usually a lot more weight ...


4

That is a free climb (the outcome). The term you may use is All Free (AF). It is much more established in German (Alles Frei, remember, that RP »Rot Punkt« also comes from German). It (AF) makes more sense in traditional sandstone climbing in Elbsandstein, in multipitch (big wall) climbing and in alpine climbing though. Check, for example, this book, I ...


4

This kind of device is rarely used in sports as it is only useful when used with fixed ropes. You mentioned crevasses: The rope is not fixed here and you are tied in, so it is hard to image how such a fall arrestor would help. However, one kind of climbing frequently uses vertical fixed (steel) lines: Via Ferratas! In typical Via Ferrata kits, shock ...


4

The cause of suspension trauma isn't fully known but is thought to be due to a lack of returning blood from the lower limbs. It is known that hanging immobile in a vertical position can lead to Suspension Trauma and this can happen surprisingly quickly as has happened when investigating the problem in France: Proposal of an Effective Algorithm to Manage ...


3

A few things not otherwise mentioned in other answers: Grip depends on how much pressure you can exert via your fingers. Often times it is not advantageous to just get as much skin on there as you can. A good example is the occasional sloper - if you try to smear your whole hand on it it's much harder to not slip off versus just driving your tips down like ...


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