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1

This is called a cows tail tie in, it's a standard guide technique, and is merely a retraced overhand on a bight.


3

Probably yes and no. A high friction sole may be very useful on slabs (and in modern bouldering competitions even overhangs are made slabby by adding an outrageous amount of big volumes) but they are pretty much useless in steep terrain with small edges as footholds. So the effect is very different depending on the terrain. Competitions surely would be ...


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