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3

I do this. We have some giant locking carabiners rated well above 20kn that we use only for tie-ins and belay endpoints. The point of using these giant carabiners is the energy absorption; their large size allows them to absorb far more thermal energy than a normal sized one would. This becomes important when rappelling. This used to be important when ...


4

Our modern default practices evolved from mountaineering, where the expectation was that you and your partner would tie in to opposite ends of the rope and stay that way all day without untying. In that context, tying the knots was a totally negligible portion of the total time spent climbing. I'm aware of two common use cases where people tie in with a ...


10

Clipping a carabiner into the belay loop instead of tieing in is a fast way to get people on the rope. It can be useful when there is a large group of people that want to climb but are not experienced to tie in themselfes, e.g. marketing events at the climbing gym. However, it comes with some drawbacks which is why it is not recommended for general use by ...


8

In theory yes that is something you can do. I would recommend using an oval 3 way locking carabiner or two screwgates. Connecting the rope with a double figure eight is a good and safe option. But there are good reasons why it is usually not done: When you are lead climbing you have to untie the knot anyways since you have to pull through the rope. Further I ...


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