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39 votes
Accepted

Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?

Yes, you absolutely should rescue the climber when the situation allows. The reason that matters most is suspension trauma: Prolonged motionless hanging in a harness can lead to loss of consciousness ...
imsodin's user avatar
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20 votes

Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?

Additionally to @imsodins brilliant answer, I'd say the same applies to almost any mountain rescue situation: if you are able to contribute to the situation while maintaining your own safety, do it (...
knitti's user avatar
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19 votes
Accepted

Crevasse rescue with knots in the rope

In a 3:1 (Z-pulley) haul, the victim's rope is used for hauling directly. As you point out correctly, a surface rescue is impossible if you have knots in the rope, since the rope is under tension and ...
Felix's user avatar
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14 votes

How can I safely climb a glacial route with just a kid or one other person?

While children can be proficient mountaineers and well trained, there are things they likely cannot do and some additional risks they face. For example, children are more susceptible to hypothermia. ...
StrongBad's user avatar
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11 votes

How can I safely climb a glacial route with just a kid or one other person?

There is a clear answer here: just don't do it! Glacier rescue is challenging - you need to know the techniques and practice them seriously. And I can tell you from experience that a glacier rescue ...
Tullochgorum's user avatar
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11 votes
Accepted

Are "fall-arrester" devices used in climbing/mountaineering?

Professional use These devices are intended for professional rope work. When doing rope access work, there are typically two ropes involved. One is the working line which is loaded with the worker's ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,285
10 votes

Why aren't ground penetrating radar drones used for hidden crevasse detection

Glaciers move, some quite quickly, up to 40 m (~130 feet) per day. As the glacier moves over terrain, crevasses open and close based on local pressures in the glacier (e.g. as it passes over a lump of ...
bob1's user avatar
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8 votes

Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?

The most important point in any emergency is to avoid making the situation worse. The situation you describe is dynamic and may have several outcomes. Its not really possible to make a decision ...
Qwerky's user avatar
  • 941
8 votes

How to mitigate injury when falling into a crevasse?

I fell down a 10m crevasse last weekend on the Argentiere glacier in chamonix. I was on a snowboard and luckily landed on a snowbridge within the crevasse which stopped my fall without serious injury....
Ian's user avatar
  • 81
7 votes

How to mitigate injury when falling into a crevasse?

I'm sorry to post a "You can't-answer", but the truth about crevasses is that the only two things that can save you are a) being roped up b) pure dumb luck. If you ever end up in a situation where ...
Guran's user avatar
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5 votes

Crevasse rescue with knots in the rope

In addition to Felix's excellent answer of what should be done it practice, it is well worth knowing how to pass a knot in the rope (whether while rappelling or hauling). This will generally be more ...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,207
4 votes

Are "fall-arrester" devices used in climbing/mountaineering?

This kind of device is rarely used in sports as it is only useful when used with fixed ropes. You mentioned crevasses: The rope is not fixed here and you are tied in, so it is hard to image how such a ...
anderas's user avatar
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4 votes
Accepted

Bivouac on glacier: how to be sure not to stand on a crevasse?

Probing is the best and only guaranteed technique for safely locating crevasses. Knowing how crevasses form will help you identify areas where crevasses are more likely to be, but you can't be certain ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
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4 votes

How to detect a crevasse on a glacier

Variations in the appearance of the snow can help detect where crevasses may be. It often helps to get a low angled light perspective such as at dawn or sunset. Depressions in the snow cover may be ...
Mark Hackney's user avatar
3 votes

How can I safely climb a glacial route with just a kid or one other person?

You used the term belay incorrectly. The other member is just an anchor. The problem is that the child cannot perform a self rescue and cannot anchor an adult. If you had two groups of three (one ...
paparazzo's user avatar
  • 7,176
2 votes

Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?

I'd like to add one point to the other good answers: You call mountain rescue and they say they will be there in 30 mins. As you are in communication with rescue, once you have answered all their ...
cbeleites unhappy with SX's user avatar

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