I'm going with "it's too dangerous, so don't do it". I have two manufactured alcohol stoves, and both contain warnings against refill while hot.
That being said, my answer is "You don't".
Pictured (I can't see the video) suggests a squeeze bottle with a plastic tube running into a reservoir where the alcohol is supposed to be while flames are clearly ...
Put a large trash bag (bin liner) into your bag. (Double bag it if you feel the need.)
Fill the trash bag with water, either using a measured container to fill it until you reach the top of your bag, or fill the bag first and then measure while or after you pour it out.
Use the water to water your plants, let the trash bag air dry and use it as a trash bag.
One solution, if you don't need the strap to be adjustable along the piping (vertically), is to remove the plastic clip and sew the chest strap to the shoulder strap, in the right place for you.
Any sewing machine can do that, or you can do it by hand if you don't have a machine accessible.
I was once shown a great way to protect the blade on a wood axe or hatchet.
I realize that ice axes are a different shape than wood axes, so this may not be a perfect solution, but maybe it will give you an inspiration for something similar.
Get an old garden hose.
Cut a length of the hose about as long as the axe's blade.
Cut an incision down the length ...
Linseed oil is used because it's a drying oil,
A drying oil is an oil that hardens to a tough, solid film after a period of exposure to air. The oil hardens through a chemical reaction in which the components crosslink (and hence, polymerize) by the action of oxygen (not through the evaporation of water or other solvents).
It also looks like the ...
You don't, adding liquid fuel to stove with a live flame is never recommended.
Related meta post Do we want a post notice for questions where people are using equipment in ways that are clearly incorrect or dangerous?
Believing the stove to be out of fuel, she tried to pour more denatured alcohol into it from a large container that exploded, shooting ...
I've helped a few friends make torches for medieval events they were hosting. As I was the only one who managed to burn themselves during assembly and testing, I feel somewhat informed, if a bit clumsy.
Your choice of materials will depend on how long you want your torch to burn for, as well as how brightly. Specifically, your wick material and your fuel.
My other half used Tyvek when he was practicing Archery and one of the factors there was it had to be quiet, they used it for 4-6 hour stints to sit on.
This is what he and some others in his club did:
Wash it on a cotton / white cycle in your washing machine without any soap or detergent or powders.
Wash it three times but let it dry thoroughly between ...
2 to 3ft long
Wick (I guess that's suitable terminology)
or in the context of a survival situation, animal fat.†
or fence staples
Soak the rags in the fuel
Wrap the rags around the stick
Fasten the rags to the stick with the nails, staples, or something similar.
Apply fire from an open ...
Do you have 2 split rings (keyrings) with you? If so, here's how to make a buckle like that (or rather its D-ring predecessor):
Attach both split rings to the upper strap, where the old buckle is/was. Pass the lower strap up through both split rings and back through the first.
Here's an ASCII-art sketch before you pull it tight:
A paper bin is going to make a fairly small stopping area. Hopefully there is something more substantial (like a wall) behind the target that will stop the arrow if you happen to miss the target entirely.
A couple of bales of hay make a larger area, small bales are relatively inexpensive and reliably stop arrows without damaging them. The best quality, ...
Those clips do come off, and in many designs you'd be able to thread them back on from the end. It is possible to clip them back on though.
The way I've found works is to gently prise open one end of the slot by twisting a screwdriver in it. Then slide that end over the piping, so that the piping replaces the screwdriver in the slot. The rest of the slot ...
What kind of shelter you can build will depend on what is around you at the time. If you are in a forest or woodland you will obviously have more to utilise than in a desert or moorland, but from my own experiences I've built shelters in British deciduous and coniferous woodlands.
During Girl Guides (bit like Scouts) and school based Team Building weeks we ...
A direct flame isn't a good way to set heat shrink tube as the flame is much too hot, making it very difficult to apply heat evenly without just melting the tube.
The ideal thing is a hot air gun. You can get smaller more precise ones for fiddly electronics applications etc but for arrows a standard sized one should be fine and they generally aren't too ...
The tool pictured is riveted together with solid rivets. It is not designed to be repaired, as mentioned in a comment, if it is not working correctly it should be disposed of and replaced.
It is possible to use a grinder to remove the flared head of the rivet and then punch it out. Alternately you can drill out the rivet, by drilling a hole in the exact ...
The simple answer is yes, you can definitely use waste paper or cardboard to stop an arrow. Various folks have used cardboard boxes, flattened, and piled up to anywhere between 6 and 12 inches thick, held together with straps or duct tape.
You'd need to use trial and error to find out what thickness works for you - if you compress the cardboard tighter you ...
Typically, using 3/4" (19mm) plywood board is strong enough for this use. And the bolts you want are 3/4" (19mm) plus enough each end to screw into the hold and to accept a nut.
Bolts used for most holds are M10 or M9.5, so check which your hold supplier uses, and then make sure the holes you drill are that thickness. This sort of bolt seems to be the most ...
You almost certainly won't be able to find propane/butane/isobutane mixes for refilling. I'm pretty sure you'll only find pure propane and the backpacking LPG stoves are made to be the most efficient with these mixes. You could have worse boil times and less consistent pressure, unless you're using a regulated stove valve.
Pure propane will actually work to ...
A few years back at my University climbing gym, someone posted a study performed on chalking your hands while climbing. Basically, it was discovered that there was actually a measurable decrease in the coefficient of friction when you used chalk. As in, chalk made climbing holds harder to hang onto.
This of course made all the climbers who read the abstract ...
There are three important aspects: Maneuverability, exposure to wind and firm attachment.
The optimal orientation for all of those is vertical. Most of the board is then covered by the body so there is minimal added wind resistance compared with horizontal mounting, were most of the board sticks out on the side and act as a huge sail. With horizontal ...
I usually sharp my crampons when I am expecting icy conditions, that means glare ice. Especially when you go steep and need front point technique, you need to rely on those points - all your bodys weight. If your front spikes are too coarse, you need much more energy to bring them secure and stable into the ice. Besides that, the ice will splinter and break ...
According to Will Gadd, you should sharpen your crampons and ice tools after every use.
If you spend just a minute or two after each trip–sometimes you won't even need a minute, just give them a look over and a couple passes with the file to take off a couple burrs–then you're never going to have to worry about dull points. Regular maintenance also ensures ...
If you are very lucky, there are rich natural sulfur deposits readily available nearby.
An example of such a place is Indonesia and Eastern Java, where blocks of Sulfur can basically be picked up like rocks from the ground.
--> Note that such locations are very rare and will generally be colocated with zones of strong geologic activity/volcanoes/hot ...
There really is no good replacement for chalk but natural conditions and some tricks can help to make it easier to climb without chalk.
Some areas in Germany have very strict (Elbsandstein - no chalk) or strict (Pfalz - chalk starting around 5.12) ethics concerning chalk and it might be a good idea to look at how climbers there deal with sweaty hands.
You could look at bungee cord hooks. They're pretty cheap and come in a bunch of sizes, plus you can bend and adjust them to suit your purpose.
You can get them attached to bungee cord, as a length of cord or as a loop, or you can purchase them individually.
Another option if you do want to use an antler is to check out pet shops, they tend to have loads ...
You will need to counter sink (fostner) the nut (bottom right) on the back side (because it will be up against the wall). A drill press would be nice. Or space the board from the wall. Any solid wood thick enough. If you are not going to counter sink then you should be able to use plywood. Practice on a short section.
I'll focus on your final statement "So this question is purely environmental". As such my answer will be purely environmental and not on safety which I am unqualified to answer.
If you are refilling you are still buying other canisters/containers to refill the original canister with. So you aren't going from X material to 0 material but rather from ...
What this post is NOT: This post is not promotion or propagation of cartridge refilling. I do NOT promote cartridge refilling and I do not do it myself. I do NOT claim it is a safe practice.
Safety warning! Cartridge refilling is not safe even when you are careful.
It used to be quite common around here in the past decades (say 1990s and 2000s) because the ...
I can think of the following two ways to cover the blade:
You can use something like a Bike Handle cover, the one that has a cap on the other end. You can get it of the size that your axe-blade fits in.
I assume that the main blade will be a bit hard to fit in, but then you can always give a try towards getting the handle cover which is a bit flexible(...