39
votes
Accepted
Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?
Yes, you absolutely should rescue the climber when the situation allows.
The reason that matters most is suspension trauma: Prolonged motionless hanging in a harness can lead to loss of consciousness ...
- 21.7k
20
votes
Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?
Additionally to @imsodins brilliant answer, I'd say the same applies to almost any mountain rescue situation:
if you are able to contribute to the situation while maintaining your own safety, do it (...
- 1,451
19
votes
Accepted
Crevasse rescue with knots in the rope
In a 3:1 (Z-pulley) haul, the victim's rope is used for hauling directly. As you point out correctly, a surface rescue is impossible if you have knots in the rope, since the rope is under tension and ...
- 6,809
14
votes
How can I safely climb a glacial route with just a kid or one other person?
While children can be proficient mountaineers and well trained, there are things they likely cannot do and some additional risks they face. For example, children are more susceptible to hypothermia. ...
- 10.7k
11
votes
Can microspikes replace crampons when crossing ice in summer?
Absolutely yes. I don't leave my home without them (well, another model than the one you linked) if there is any chance of hitting snow/ice during a hike. For such hikes, they always, at any time of ...
- 1,898
11
votes
What equipment is needed for glacier hiking?
about excess rope, rope length and how to split rope please see:
https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/7025/2653
As you see on the picture, the two ends of the rope is devided evenly between the ...
- 12.2k
11
votes
How can I safely climb a glacial route with just a kid or one other person?
There is a clear answer here: just don't do it!
Glacier rescue is challenging - you need to know the techniques and practice them seriously. And I can tell you from experience that a glacier rescue ...
- 11.7k
11
votes
Accepted
Are "fall-arrester" devices used in climbing/mountaineering?
Professional use
These devices are intended for professional rope work. When doing rope access work, there are typically two ropes involved. One is the working line which is loaded with the worker's ...
- 7,020
10
votes
Why aren't ground penetrating radar drones used for hidden crevasse detection
Glaciers move, some quite quickly, up to 40 m (~130 feet) per day. As the glacier moves over terrain, crevasses open and close based on local pressures in the glacier (e.g. as it passes over a lump of ...
- 9,729
9
votes
How do people camp on ice?
You don't use ordinary tent pegs, you use something a lot more substantial. For example, pictured below are two ice screws (cheap ones I found a picture of on Ali Express), which would work if the ice ...
- 1,543
8
votes
What equipment is needed for glacier hiking?
As already stated several times: If you know what you need to do on a glacier, you know what material to take. The other way round does not work: Just having the necessary gear will not insure proper ...
- 21.7k
8
votes
Obtaining drinking water from a glacier or icefield, in the absence of snow or reachable meltwater
Another answer talks about hardness. There is some relevance to that, but more importantly, ice is brittle, regardless of how hard it is. You don't need much of a tool to scrape or crack chunks from ...
- 21.4k
8
votes
Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?
The most important point in any emergency is to avoid making the situation worse. The situation you describe is dynamic and may have several outcomes. Its not really possible to make a decision ...
- 931
7
votes
Can microspikes replace crampons when crossing ice in summer?
Depends on how steep your ice patch is.
Crampons are really good when you have steep slopes and you need to do some real front pointing. Crampons are good for mixed climbing as well. They are also ...
- 7,815
6
votes
Accepted
Obtaining drinking water from a glacier or icefield, in the absence of snow or reachable meltwater
The Mohs hardness scale is a common scale used to describe the hardness (resistance to scratching) of different materials. The hardness of ice is between 1.5 and 6 Mohs. The hardness of granite is 7 ...
- 10.7k
6
votes
Can microspikes replace crampons when crossing ice in summer?
It depends, if the snow is pretty level and you don't need the front points on the crampons to get up things, then yes microspikes can be a good substitute as they are certainly lighter and don't ...
- 69.2k
5
votes
Crevasse rescue with knots in the rope
In addition to Felix's excellent answer of what should be done it practice, it is well worth knowing how to pass a knot in the rope (whether while rappelling or hauling). This will generally be more ...
- 4,179
5
votes
Accepted
Comparison of dangers on the glacier in summer and winter
I think you just excluded the main difference which are avalanches (on steeper sections). Another difference is the higher risk of freezing to death in winter but this is not glacier specific and even ...
- 7,020
5
votes
Why would a glacier-fed river have its peak flow levels at mid morning?
The main reason for the peak flow to happen at a certain time is that the meltwater pulse takes that amount of time to propagate.
If the peak Hoh River flow 40 miles from the source happens at 09:00, ...
- 1,124
4
votes
Accepted
Bivouac on glacier: how to be sure not to stand on a crevasse?
Probing is the best and only guaranteed technique for safely locating crevasses. Knowing how crevasses form will help you identify areas where crevasses are more likely to be, but you can't be certain ...
- 53.5k
4
votes
Accepted
Crossing small corners of a glacier when hiking in summer
I traversed my first glacier when I was 5 years old in Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park. For the most part, if you're following an established trail, then you likely aren't going to be venturing far ...
- 53.5k
4
votes
What combination of tools is ideal for 40-60 degree snow and ice slopes? (Piolet(s), Whippets, ice tools)
One of the most important thing in ski mountaineering is weight of equipment. So you should take only what you really need. That will allow you quickly move and enjoy a trip.
Regarding what to take (...
- 1,387
4
votes
What combination of tools is ideal for 40-60 degree snow and ice slopes? (Piolet(s), Whippets, ice tools)
Personally I would go with poles and one ice-axe as long as possible. As soon as there are have prolonged steep slopes (defined by having to ascend with front points of crampons) I would take two axes....
- 21.7k
4
votes
How do I strengthen my ankles for long, steepish, snow and glacier routes?
Go jogging.
Not on asphalt or paved roads, go "off-piste". Woodland trails are great. If you are able to, choose low shoes with low to moderate damping. Then run. Jogging over uneven ground is what I ...
- 935
4
votes
Accepted
How do I strengthen my ankles for long, steepish, snow and glacier routes?
Get a balance board. When you brush your teeth, stand on it with bare feet and balance. Once you become stronger, balance standing on one foot. I did this during marathon training with good results.
...
- 841
4
votes
How to detect a crevasse on a glacier
Variations in the appearance of the snow can help detect where crevasses may be. It often helps to get a low angled light perspective such as at dawn or sunset. Depressions in the snow cover may be ...
- 41
4
votes
How do I tell if a glacier is safe for crossing?
I'm not an alpinist, but I think that the answer relating to "conditions" is entirely dependent on the local conditions for the position on the glacier where you intend to cross.
Sure, crevasses are ...
- 9,729
4
votes
How to split 3-5 people into rope teams for glacier travel?
You are not going to like the answer, but a 5 member team should recruit a 6th person. I think 3 people per rope is ideal. 4 people always seems like too many and 2 people makes stopping a fall really ...
- 10.7k
Only top scored, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible