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57

No you should not use a bicycle helmet for climbing. They are designed for different types of impacts and will not provide you with proper protection outside of their designed activity. Bicycle helmets are designed for a SINGLE ground impact. Like modern cars they are designed to crumple and absorb the energy from an impact. They probably provide the ...


21

Motorcycle helmets should not be used as a replacement for a ski helmet: Most motorcycle helmets weight between 1,000 and 2,000 grams, while ski helmets weigh between 330 and 600 grams. You are expected to fall repeatedly with ski helmets (on the order of up to several times a day), so it needs to be lighter to not exact an additional toll on your neck You ...


19

It's not recommended to use a kayak or "CE/EN 1385" helmet for skiing. However, you can use a skiing or "CE/EN 1077" helmet for kayaking. The helmets are manufactured and tested for specific conditions. A skiing helmet is for "faster speed" impacts and colder conditions. In contrast a kayak helmet is of course created for "slower speed" impacts and warmer ...


16

The main standards to focus on for bicycle helmets are probably the CPSC standard in the US, and the EN 1078 standard in Europe. The climbing helmet UIAA 106 standard is based on the EN 12492 standard. Unfortunately the EU standards do not appear publicly available due to copyright issues. Bike helmets: CPSC: Helmet is attached to a 5kg headform and ...


16

In all likelihood, you just need to replace the helmet. Nearly all helmets, climbing and bicycle helmets included, need to be replaced once they become worn or older than 5 years. Ideally, you would track the age of each helmet. If you don't know how old one is and it looks well used, I wouldn't risk it. Stick to gently wiping it with a soft dry cloth. ...


13

As the protection required in these activities differ, there are different standards for helmets: EN 1385 for kayaking and EN 1077 for skiing. There are of course even more norms for other helmets. So technically, you need a helmet that fulfils both these norms. I am not aware of a helmet that has both norms. I do however use a Kong Scarab, which fulfils the ...


13

Basically, there are happy turtles and there are dead turtles and helmets should always be placed in the happy position. Happy helmets stick around, while dead helmets have a tendency to slide down the rock. Of course you could always clip the helmet to something, but it can be much easier to just place it in the happy position. Finally, you should never ...


12

To appease the (correctly) security minded: Just don't forget the second helmet ;) This depends on the specific situation in the crag: Is there potential rockfall from above the routes? If there is nothing above the routes (cliffs, flat above, ...), then that's not a problem. If there is steepish terrain above, possibly with a path or animals up there, ...


12

There seem to be many widespread assumptions about helmet design, particularly regarding how well they handle multiple impacts. The poor availability of the relevant standards documents[0] does not do much to help this. As others have mentioned, relevant helmet standards include EN 1385 (for kayaks and whitewater sports) and EN 1077 (alpine skiers and ...


10

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has a downloadable helmet guidebook which addresses this question pretty well. As a brief summary: Hardshell helmets give good protection against impacts from above, e.g. rock fall, and can cope with repeated small impacts. This makes them the most suitable type for mountaineering or long routes. However they give ...


9

In my opinion you should also take the hybrid helmets into account. As far as I know, hardshell helmets are more robust than foam ones but they are heavier. That's also the reason they invented the hybrid, to get a compromise of both. Hybrid has a thinner hard outer shell (lighter than the extremely robust hardshell helmets) to protect against deformation. ...


7

You should always wear a helmet when climbing outdoors due to the risk of rockfall. The only downside to wearing a helmet is that it is slightly less comfortable than climbing without one, but this is a small price to pay for potentially saving your life or that of your climbing partner. I always wear one outside and would not let anyone who was not ...


7

Sugru is the bond you are looking for. I use it for lots of uses and it will work ideally for your needs. Simply Google Sugru and be amazed.


5

I will not address the issue of whether the helmet in question is still usable or should be retired but instead answer the main question: How to wash a foam helmet? Generally water must not damage any kind of helmet you want to use for climbing, as it has to be usable in long constant rain. So rinsing with water without additives is certainly save. The ...


5

The concern here would be if the helmet could move far enough that it doesn't protect your skull adequately. If you can move it significantly I'd want to sort it - remember in an emergency it could take a good hit. Personally, I'd replace the entire strap set at this point, as I'd not be convinced any repairs would be strong enough at strap ends etc. I ...


4

The BMC history of helmets puts it at 1996 with the introduction of the Petzl Meteor helmet which was a combination of a hard shell and foam helmet. This matches my recollection of when things became popular. There is also a little evidence in this Climbing article


4

I haven't yet been climbing for 20+ years, but from my 8-or-so years experience of climbing in European and Asian countries I can tell that helmets did not become a universal norm yet. It all depends on the type and on the location of the climb. I do not personally know anybody who would wear a helmet when climbing indoors. Neither have I seen anybody ...


4

In addition to the given answer, I'd like to say that motorbike helmets that you fall with with the helmet actually hitting something should be replaced! The cushioning effect will not be the same on the spot that took an impact. Of course you can take the chances, but I wouldn't use it again when riding a motorbike, impact speed is generally a lot higher ...


4

In the army we used "dead turtle" - mainly to make it harder for bugs/scorpions/spiders/other friends to get in. So there's no right/wrong, just pros/cons. And of course, the best way to keep it from falling/rolling is to clip it to something.


3

A kayaker and snowboarder here. You don't want to use a ski helmet when you go whitewater kayaking -- they usually have padding that is somewhat water resistant but not designed to endure constantly wet conditions, which your kayaking helmet is exposed to even if you manage to remain right side up and not roll much or, worse yet, swim -- because of the ...


3

Helmet Policy Some climbing centers and organisations mandate helmet usage even indoors for younger or novice participants. Safety in Outdoor Education Policy for Schools & Youth Groups for the Isle of Man states: All participants on outdoor crags should wear helmets and it is recommended that those leading on artificial inside walls also wear them. ...


1

Google Trends Shows consistent searches for "Rock Climbing Helmet" since at least 2004 Google Trends for "Rock Climbing Helmet" Agreed that rockfall is always a concern. I like to wear a helmet any time I lead climb, because of the risk of damage to the back of the head if you get your leg trapped behind the rope and are flipped upside down.


1

Modern foam climbing helmets like a Petzl Meteor and bike helmets are very similar. They are not tested identically so can't be compared apples to apples. A foam climbing climbing helmet will NOT stop multiple impacts. Sport specific helmets are to sell more helmets and make more money for the makers, period.


1

A multi-purpose kids bike helmet / rollerblading helmet would work, but not the bike helmet with holes and a pointy end. I know because the first time I led a climb i used a multi-purpose helmet, non-hole type, padded, and it is much heavier than a climbing helmet. I used it because toproping with a guide I had hit my head on some ledges, and was glad to ...


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