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17 votes

What are the pros and cons of ice axe leashes?

Notice: I consider this a question about classical mountaineering. The question becomes very debatable if you include steep ice. In short: Do not use hand leashes on mountaineering ice axes: you ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
8 votes
Accepted

What is the correct technique for self arrest, with an ice axe, on a snow or ice slope?

The most important thing to remember is to prevent this situation. You should never find yourself in the position to slip down a slope. In many cases (steepness, snow/ice conditions, ...) there is no ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
7 votes

What are the pros and cons of ice axe leashes?

Not dropping the ice axe is a pro in some circumstances and a con in others. If you drop into a crevasse it would be really nice to hang on to your ice axe to aid in your rescue and finishing or ...
Charles E. Grant's user avatar
7 votes

What are the pros and cons of ice axe leashes?

Short answer: Safety > Convenience. Long answer: For mountaineering I'd suggest using a leash; I'm sure you're aware but if you were to lose it you would have a hard time performing all these tasks:...
aaaaargZombies's user avatar
6 votes

How do I know what size ice axe I should get?

They say a picture is worth thousand words: Generally (except activities like drytooling /ice climbing) when standing upright and holding the axe you should have the end of it in middle of the length ...
andilabs's user avatar
  • 203
5 votes

When ski mountaineering should I bring a whippet or ice axe?

Whippet is an attempt to add some ice axe capabilities to a ski pole. Several combinations one whippet one whippet and one ski pole one ice axe and two ski poles one ice axe I don't think ...
paparazzo's user avatar
  • 7,186
5 votes
Accepted

What is this knot that is used on ice axe leashes?

I would call it a basic munter hitch. Take the eye in the end of the cord (through which you are pushing the bight in the first image) and imagine it to be a carabiner. This should make the ...
requiem's user avatar
  • 8,438
4 votes

What combination of tools is ideal for 40-60 degree snow and ice slopes? (Piolet(s), Whippets, ice tools)

One of the most important thing in ski mountaineering is weight of equipment. So you should take only what you really need. That will allow you quickly move and enjoy a trip. Regarding what to take (...
user1209304's user avatar
  • 1,387
4 votes

What combination of tools is ideal for 40-60 degree snow and ice slopes? (Piolet(s), Whippets, ice tools)

Personally I would go with poles and one ice-axe as long as possible. As soon as there are have prolonged steep slopes (defined by having to ascend with front points of crampons) I would take two axes....
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
4 votes
Accepted

Making a (retrievable) base in soft snow using a pair of ice-axes

After rappelling, you pull the left half of the rappel line to free the ice axes. Before rappelling, the prusik should be positioned up near the axe so the cord is slack. Also, the horizontal axe ...
Mike's user avatar
  • 992
4 votes

Making a (retrievable) base in soft snow using a pair of ice-axes

Here are a few videos that show the technique you are asking about: https://youtu.be/KK9Lp7R8QuU https://youtu.be/TJksXL4-XR8 Whether one should employ such an anchor is a judgement call that will ...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,252
4 votes

What is the correct technique for self arrest, with an ice axe, on a snow or ice slope?

Having learnt this years ago, I can thoroughly recommend that when you're in a suitable spot with a group you practise. The rest of the group can observe your form, keep an eye out for hazards and ...
Chris H's user avatar
  • 26.7k
3 votes

How to make DIY ice axe protectors?

I use an empty prescription medication plastic bottle form CVS or Wallgreens. If it's a little bit loose, I can secure it with a duct tape.
user13854's user avatar
2 votes

What is the correct technique for self arrest, with an ice axe, on a snow or ice slope?

There is a bit to it. A book like Freedom of the Hills has excellent instructions with illustrations. If it is solid ice you cannot break through then this is not going to work. Practice on your ...
paparazzo's user avatar
  • 7,186
1 vote

Does anybody know or know where to find the requirements for Russian ice axe tests?

As far as I know, there are no specific ice axe test requirements in Russia. I didn't find any GOST standard for an ice axe as well. So, if your ice axe isn't UIAA certified you can just guess about ...
Usurer's user avatar
  • 1,478
1 vote

What is this knot that is used on ice axe leashes?

Since asking the question, I've done some experimentation and discovered a potentially serious problem with this knot. When it is tied from cord, the size of the loop around which the munter is tied (...
Qudit's user avatar
  • 1,280
1 vote

When ski mountaineering should I bring a whippet or ice axe?

Disclaimer: I don't use whippets and have never even hold one in my own hands. From the build of a whippet and a question about whippets on AAI (provided by Ben Crowell) it has a very narrow use case:...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k

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