38 votes
Accepted

At what angle should an ice screw be screwed into the ice?

All of the resources that I can find say that it should be done with the screw tip pointing up and the hanger below with up to a twenty-degree angle from horizontal. Contrary to what you ...
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15 votes
Accepted

Why are unequalised anchors acceptable for fixed-point belay systems used while ice climbing?

Ice screws have a tendency for pressure melting if constantly loaded over some time. Therefore if you build your fixed point belay system and and keep it under more or less constant load while ...
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11 votes
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What is the intention behind webbing the rope through snow?

The answer is in this video: https://youtu.be/seCiupa4I6U?t=1m2s I'm not sure if it's the same traverse as the OP posted, but I'd bet on it. The thing that looks like a biner between the columns is ...
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  • 3,313
10 votes
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Under what circumstances would you not use a recently planted ice screw?

I will only focus on signs to assess the quality of a placed ice screw. There are many factors that influence the outcome like the location, temperature, ... but they deserve an answer of their own. ...
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  • 21.5k
9 votes
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Rope between legs while leading on rock, ice

I think that rope management at your harness (in both rock and ice climbing) is an extension of managing your rope while you're clipping into your pro. You carry different lengths of draws and slings ...
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  • 53k
8 votes
Accepted

How much stronger is a vertical v-thread than a horizontal one?

TL;DR Vertical oriented V-threads (A-threads) are significantly stronger than horizontally aligned V-threads. The following numbers should not be taken at face value: Different test configurations ...
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  • 21.5k
7 votes
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V-threads (Abalakov): How many holes are too many?

Will Gadd's book Ice & Mixed Climbing states that if you mess up the first attempt at a V-thread, start over in clean ice. This includes if your screw holes intersect only partway down the hole, ...
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  • 6,759
7 votes

Ice Axes - Ice blade or Mix blade?

It depends. Mix climbing on granite in Norway with Ice climbing occasionally. That means you have mostly rock while on the mixed climb? If this is the case I would advise to get a mixed blade. ...
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  • 12.1k
6 votes
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Retrieve ice-screw after descending

There is a video, unfortunately in German, but the steps are pretty well visible. However, be warned that this technique is not without risk: You are only using the front part of the ice screw which ...
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  • 6,105
6 votes
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Belaying and anchoring on multipitch ice walls

People are climbing multi pitches on ice as well. Most ice falls are not uniform in steepness, so it is often possible to find some ledge-like flatter parts for belaying. In ice climbing it is also ...
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  • 6,105
6 votes

Transferable skills between rock and ice climbing

The Basics Tying in, ropework, belaying, commands and common sense transfer quite well from rock climbing. At least from trad. Someone with rock climbing experience could certainly top rope on ice or ...
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  • 1,887
6 votes
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Ice Axes - Ice blade or Mix blade?

Ice blades are designed for penetration, mixed blades are modified to help you also get a good bite on rock without doing to much damage to your tips. Will Gadd–who is considered to be the best ice ...
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  • 53k
6 votes
Accepted

What crampon front-point setup options are specific for various types of ice climbing?

The single point setup was developed to aid in very high technical levels of mixed climbing. Dual points can make it hard to keep the crampon on small rock holds. Also in certain kinds of ice, the ...
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6 votes

Where do you place ice screws?

Addition to ShemSeger's answer, from way back in my mind: A concave spot in the ice is stronger than a convex spot, given equal ice quality. The ice should be deeper than the screw is long, so the ...
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  • 1,770
5 votes
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Where do you place ice screws?

Good Ice Sounds obvious, but that's the answer, you need to learn how to identify good solid ice for all your screw placements. The best ice is the thickest ice you can find, so you can place your ...
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  • 53k
5 votes

Technical clothing brands for extra long arms?

The UK company Rab have a reputation for selling jackets and tops with longish sleeves. I'm 6'3" (I don't know about 'wingspan') and find quite a lot of their jackets/tops have sleeves more than ...
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  • 5,852
5 votes
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Transferable skills between rock and ice climbing

There are some helpful basics like tieing into a rope and belaying that directly transfer from rock to ice climbing as they are the same regardless of the conditions. Further transferable skills ...
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  • 6,105
4 votes

Retrieve ice-screw after descending

It's pretty simple. Place the screw, finishing with the hanger upwards (as the rope will just be hooked over it). Back it up with any reasonable anchor, with a small amount of slack so you can tell ...
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  • 4,348
3 votes

At what angle should an ice screw be screwed into the ice?

Finite Element Analysis Ice Screw Analysis by John Gregel shows computer models of the stresses applied to an idelaized screw in differing strength ice blocks at three angles: +15° hanger higher ...
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3 votes

What crampon front-point setup options are specific for various types of ice climbing?

There are many different crampon geometries. While the exact choice comes down to personal preference, let's discuss the canonical choices and intended uses. I will limit my discussion to automatic/...
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  • 3,773
3 votes

Backpack for both ice tools and snow shoes

Look for a pack where the ice axe is on the side of the back. Strapping snowshoes to the back of a pack is fairly trivial: usually I rig a loop at the bottom of the pack about 4" in diameter. Run ...
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3 votes

Backpack for both ice tools and snow shoes

I believe you should search for backpacks that are specifically marketed for snow-shoeing/ backcountry skiing and check if they allow carrying ice tools as well. I haven't tested it myself, but it ...
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  • 3,474
2 votes

Technical clothing brands for extra long arms?

Jöttnar is maybe an option? They have extra long arms.
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  • 21

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