68 votes
Accepted

Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

Other people have addressed several concerns that I would have bringing a young child into the mountains during the winter. One concern that I haven't seen addressed is; what if something happens to ...
user avatar
  • 9,628
47 votes

Is it dangerous to rope together on an ascent of hard packed ice?

If the snow was hard packed enough that a self arrest is not possible, and there are no intermediate anchors, then if one person falls, they can take the whole team down with them. If that was the ...
user avatar
40 votes
Accepted

Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?

Yes, you absolutely should rescue the climber when the situation allows. The reason that matters most is suspension trauma: Prolonged motionless hanging in a harness can lead to loss of consciousness ...
user avatar
  • 21.6k
36 votes

What do mountaineers eat and drink on the day of an Everest summit?

Hot soup mostly, it does depend on the individual diets of the climbers, not everybody eats the same thing, but most carry hot soup with them. Despite the massive amounts of energy needed to summit ...
user avatar
  • 53.1k
34 votes

Can you get permanent brain damage by spending a day at 10,000ft (~3000m) altitude?

TLDR: Yes, it can happen at that altitude, but the odds are extremely low. Long answer High-altitude cerebral edema has happened at lower than 10,000 ft. The condition is seldom seen below 3,000 ...
user avatar
29 votes
Accepted

What makes certain mountains more dangerous than others?

I personally had a similar sort of a question when I first went through similar kind of stats about these mountains. Getting introduced to these stats is different than totally understanding the ...
user avatar
  • 31.5k
29 votes
Accepted

What is "Isolation" and "Prominence" in mountain terms?

Isolation and prominence are the two key criteria to classify a peak as an independent mountain. To understand the meaning I like the visualization from the German Wiki where "Dominanz" means ...
user avatar
  • 12.1k
27 votes
Accepted

Summitting Breithorn in the winter?

I do not have much alpine experience Climbing the Breithorn in the winter is a much different matter than in the spring or summer. Any 4,000 meter peak in the alps is subject to arctic weather ...
user avatar
25 votes

Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

You know that there is a lot of snow already in those heights in Austria? Even in 1500m people not used to it will get problems. Please have a look at webcams and detailed descriptions of the route ...
user avatar
  • 12.1k
24 votes
Accepted

How to walk as a roped party on a glacier?

First of all: Walking a glacier contains some serious risks and roping up is not enough to cover that risks, but also knowledge of crevasse rescue is needed. Therefore I strongly recommend a glacier ...
user avatar
24 votes

Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

Due to the small volume of the body - risk of rapid hypothermia in children is very high. Do not risk it in the winter.
user avatar
  • 341
24 votes
Accepted

What is the difference between a Pass and a Col?

Both words refer to the same topography, which is a saddle point. The land goes up in two opposite directions, and down in the two other opposite directions. To me at least, a col is just this basic ...
user avatar
  • 21.3k
24 votes

Do I need a rope on the Großglockner?

The Großglockner is one of the most popular high peaks in the Alps. This means that in the summit area, especially between the Kleinglockner and the Großglockner there is a lot of traffic in both ...
user avatar
  • 6,435
23 votes

What is Fast Packing?

Fastpacking is lightweight or ultralight mountain travel with the aim of covering big distances over extended trips. Base weights would typically range between 8lbs-15lbs (3.5-7kg) or even less, so ...
user avatar
  • 11.6k
22 votes
Accepted

Is it dangerous to rope together on an ascent of hard packed ice?

The most common options coming to my mind are: Securing from anchors and building e.g. one rope-party with 2 and one with 3 members This is slow but very safe. You do it in steep and/or difficult ...
user avatar
  • 12.1k
21 votes
Accepted

Rapelling an overhang

I was thinking about this question while rappelling over an overhang this evening with my little girl and payed attention to exactly what I do: Plant your feet on the edge of the overhang, keep your ...
user avatar
  • 53.1k
21 votes

Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?

Additionally to @imsodins brilliant answer, I'd say the same applies to almost any mountain rescue situation: if you are able to contribute to the situation while maintaining your own safety, do it (...
user avatar
  • 1,451
20 votes
Accepted

What do mountaineers eat and drink on the day of an Everest summit?

In 1996, they seemed to enjoy chocolate bars and candies. From some of the accounts of the infamous 1996 season related by the 2015 movie, apart for the classic soup, tea and fluids, we can consider "...
user avatar
  • 316
20 votes
Accepted

Where does the name Deadman come from in mountaineering gear?

imsodin's explanation (it's a heavy object you bury in the ground, like a dead body) seems very plausible. Just to add some history to it, here's the earliest use of the term listed in the Oxford ...
user avatar
  • 3,692
20 votes

Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

In short - No, do not take your 6 y.o. daughter on that mountain in winter in one week's time. There'll be plenty of opportunities for parent-daughter bonding in the future in less extreme and more ...
user avatar
20 votes
Accepted

Are there any general rules of thumb for route finding up a mountain without any trails?

I'll try to give a fairly generic answer to this broad question... Avoid Dangers This is obvious really, but first and foremost you'll want to avoid any kind of routes which lead you close to ...
user avatar
  • 12.2k
20 votes
Accepted

What is the relationship between altitude gain and temperature decrease when mountaineering?

The answer is that it depends on the moisture held in the air moist air changes at a rate of 3° Fahrenheit per 1000 ft of vertical / 0.6° Celsius per 100m. dry air changes at a rate of 5.4&...
user avatar
20 votes
Accepted

Why is the "alpine style" of climbing not as popular in the Himalayas?

TLDR: Because its much harder that way and the extra altitude of the Himalayas makes it that much more difficult. Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying ...
user avatar
20 votes
Accepted

Are snow shoes useful in mountaineering?

Yes, snowshoes can be very useful when mountaineering. The ideal conditions for their use are lots of snow and fairly gentle slopes. The deeper the snow, the greater the advantage snowshoes have over ...
user avatar
  • 3,855
19 votes
Accepted

How to detect a crevasse on a glacier

If the glacier isn't snowless (aper) you can probe for spaces under the surface which should be noticed by less resistance in the snow/Firn. Still it is preferable to avoid going in regions where one ...
user avatar
  • 12.1k
19 votes

What is the difference between a Pass and a Col?

Pass and col are synonymous. Col is French whereas the word pass has entered the Germanic languages (German word is Pass). The word col entered English usage because of anglophone mountaineers in ...
user avatar
  • 26.2k
18 votes
Accepted

During high-altitude lengthy expedition: To shave or not shave?

Apart from the practical advantages mentioned in practicality of beards, there's also some aspects that are special to remote and/or high altitude trekking: Melting snow to obtain water costs a lot ...
user avatar

Only top scored, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible