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68 votes
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Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

Other people have addressed several concerns that I would have bringing a young child into the mountains during the winter. One concern that I haven't seen addressed is; what if something happens to ...
Erik's user avatar
  • 9,648
46 votes

Is it dangerous to rope together on an ascent of hard packed ice?

If the snow was hard packed enough that a self arrest is not possible, and there are no intermediate anchors, then if one person falls, they can take the whole team down with them. If that was the ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
39 votes
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Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?

Yes, you absolutely should rescue the climber when the situation allows. The reason that matters most is suspension trauma: Prolonged motionless hanging in a harness can lead to loss of consciousness ...
imsodin's user avatar
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34 votes

Can you get permanent brain damage by spending a day at 10,000ft (~3000m) altitude?

TLDR: Yes, it can happen at that altitude, but the odds are extremely low. Long answer High-altitude cerebral edema has happened at lower than 10,000 ft. The condition is seldom seen below 3,000 ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
27 votes
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Summitting Breithorn in the winter?

I do not have much alpine experience Climbing the Breithorn in the winter is a much different matter than in the spring or summer. Any 4,000 meter peak in the alps is subject to arctic weather ...
Charles E. Grant's user avatar
25 votes

Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

You know that there is a lot of snow already in those heights in Austria? Even in 1500m people not used to it will get problems. Please have a look at webcams and detailed descriptions of the route ...
Wills's user avatar
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25 votes
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What is the difference between a Pass and a Col?

Both words refer to the same topography, which is a saddle point. The land goes up in two opposite directions, and down in the two other opposite directions. To me at least, a col is just this basic ...
Olin Lathrop's user avatar
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24 votes

Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

Due to the small volume of the body - risk of rapid hypothermia in children is very high. Do not risk it in the winter.
Mikhail's user avatar
  • 341
24 votes

Do I need a rope on the Großglockner?

The Großglockner is one of the most popular high peaks in the Alps. This means that in the summit area, especially between the Kleinglockner and the Großglockner there is a lot of traffic in both ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,285
23 votes

What is Fast Packing?

Fastpacking is lightweight or ultralight mountain travel with the aim of covering big distances over extended trips. Base weights would typically range between 8lbs-15lbs (3.5-7kg) or even less, so ...
Tullochgorum's user avatar
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22 votes
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Is it dangerous to rope together on an ascent of hard packed ice?

The most common options coming to my mind are: Securing from anchors and building e.g. one rope-party with 2 and one with 3 members This is slow but very safe. You do it in steep and/or difficult ...
Wills's user avatar
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21 votes
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Rapelling an overhang

I was thinking about this question while rappelling over an overhang this evening with my little girl and payed attention to exactly what I do: Plant your feet on the edge of the overhang, keep your ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
21 votes

What is the difference between a Pass and a Col?

Pass and col are synonymous. Col is French whereas the word pass has entered the Germanic languages (German word is Pass). The word col entered English usage because of anglophone mountaineers in ...
gerrit's user avatar
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21 votes
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Are there any general rules of thumb for route finding up a mountain without any trails?

I'll try to give a fairly generic answer to this broad question... Avoid Dangers This is obvious really, but first and foremost you'll want to avoid any kind of routes which lead you close to ...
fgysin's user avatar
  • 13k
20 votes
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Where does the name Deadman come from in mountaineering gear?

imsodin's explanation (it's a heavy object you bury in the ground, like a dead body) seems very plausible. Just to add some history to it, here's the earliest use of the term listed in the Oxford ...
Pont's user avatar
  • 3,752
20 votes

Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

In short - No, do not take your 6 y.o. daughter on that mountain in winter in one week's time. There'll be plenty of opportunities for parent-daughter bonding in the future in less extreme and more ...
My Other Head's user avatar
20 votes

Should one attempt to rescue a stranger from a crevasse or wait for mountain rescue?

Additionally to @imsodins brilliant answer, I'd say the same applies to almost any mountain rescue situation: if you are able to contribute to the situation while maintaining your own safety, do it (...
knitti's user avatar
  • 1,469
20 votes
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What is the relationship between altitude gain and temperature decrease when mountaineering?

The answer is that it depends on the moisture held in the air moist air changes at a rate of 3° Fahrenheit per 1000 ft of vertical / 0.6° Celsius per 100m. dry air changes at a rate of 5.4&...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
20 votes
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Why is the "alpine style" of climbing not as popular in the Himalayas?

TLDR: Because its much harder that way and the extra altitude of the Himalayas makes it that much more difficult. Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
20 votes
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Are snow shoes useful in mountaineering?

Yes, snowshoes can be very useful when mountaineering. The ideal conditions for their use are lots of snow and fairly gentle slopes. The deeper the snow, the greater the advantage snowshoes have over ...
Martin F's user avatar
  • 4,107
18 votes
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Why are climbing shoes usually a slightly tighter than the usual mountaineering shoes?

Climbing shoes need to be extremely tight* because they frequently have to support a lot of weight on extremely tiny footholds, often on the tip of the toes: Any free space inside the shoe could ...
Michael Borgwardt's user avatar
18 votes

Correct technique to traverse exposed sandy rock slope

You are correct that it is called scree. Depending on the incline and rock makeup it can be either relatively easy or almost impassable to cross. If you are traversing you want to pick a straight line ...
noah's user avatar
  • 4,053
17 votes

What are the pros and cons of ice axe leashes?

Notice: I consider this a question about classical mountaineering. The question becomes very debatable if you include steep ice. In short: Do not use hand leashes on mountaineering ice axes: you ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
17 votes

Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

I don't know the route itself, but according to what I read there are two non-technical routes, one from the "Prielschutzhaus" and another from "Welse Huette". The first one includes one steep section ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
17 votes
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How high can one go from sea level without having to worry about altitude sickness?

People react differently to altitude, and it is not always those you would predict who have trouble at altitude. Thus, my advice is to take it slower than zero to 9,000 feet in one day unless you ...
ab2's user avatar
  • 23.9k
16 votes

Mountaineering with a 6-year-old kid in winter

The normal track to Großer Priel involves some smaller climbing sections, so even in summer it isn't that easy. Total ascent is around 2000m and about 24 kms, so definitely a serious climb. Do you ...
sveme's user avatar
  • 161
15 votes
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First skills to learn for mountaineering

I would put avalanche safety and a wilderness first responder course as my top priorities. They teach you how to not get into trouble and how to help others if you do. Just being able to spot an ...
Eric's user avatar
  • 2,138
15 votes
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Do mountaineers use dynamic climbing when traversing rock/ice?

The problem will be that both the terms/activities "dynamic climbing" and "mountaineering" are quite broad. Strictly speaking the answer is yes: You sometimes use dynamic climbing in mountaineering, ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k

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