19 votes
Accepted

What extra gear to take up a multipitch climb?

There are two main schools of thought: the "fast and light" / "light is right" / "rope, rack, shirt on your back" camp and the "be prepared" / "safety ...
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  • 3,773
12 votes
Accepted

(Why) Should I hold the rope when belaying the second climber with Reverso?

All of the listed reasons hold true, and can largely be simplified to the fourth: never let go of the brake strand unless you have tied it off. This maintains good habits and also mitigates potential ...
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  • 8,358
12 votes

What to do if the second seems stuck and absolutely no communication is possible?

All of Ben's comments are great, but they mostly deal with what you could do once you are in this situation. Avoiding the situation all together might be easier than you think though and likely the ...
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  • 2,702
10 votes

Belaying two seconds?

Double Rope You need two ropes (of obviously different colours so as not to confuse them). Tie into both ropes, one on each side of your belay loop, your seconds will each tie into the other end of ...
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  • 53.1k
10 votes
Accepted

Belaying two seconds?

While belaying two seconds at once using the method ShemSeger pointed out is my favorite, it does take a fair amount of experience so I would not recommend it to someone climbing for the first time ...
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  • 6,769
9 votes
Accepted

How to avoid tangling up the rope when throwing it before rappelling?

Toss the middle first. Throwing your rope isn't always the best solution. High winds, trees, and rocky slopes can make it easy for you to get your rope hung up. Throwing your rope is only really ...
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  • 53.1k
8 votes

Belaying two seconds?

I assume you are only looking for options by going from belay to belay (as opposed to continuous securing like going on taught rope). Method using half-ropes: You tie in on both ropes, your partners ...
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  • 21.5k
7 votes

What to do if the second seems stuck and absolutely no communication is possible?

There is not much to add to Ben Crowell's great answer, just one point. So the next paragraph is merely a short version of his answer, skip to the second if you do not want to read it. If you have a ...
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  • 21.5k
7 votes

How to avoid tangling up the rope when throwing it before rappelling?

First of all, don't coil your rope in the "usual" U-shape, like climbers do! (example picture) Or in ASCII art ___ ------- //// o \\\\ |||| |||| |||| |||| |||| |||| \\// \\// ...
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  • 4,313
6 votes
Accepted

Belaying and anchoring on multipitch ice walls

People are climbing multi pitches on ice as well. Most ice falls are not uniform in steepness, so it is often possible to find some ledge-like flatter parts for belaying. In ice climbing it is also ...
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  • 6,335
5 votes

Belaying two seconds?

Its pretty easy for the 2 seconds being together or always nearby, and a bit stretchy for the one leading the climb (You). When I did one similar not-so-tough scramble, I used a trick that at least ...
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  • 31.5k
5 votes

How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?

1) Is it possible to belay 2 climbers using the picture-2 ATC I think It would be as possible as belaying one leader using double ropes. You would need to take in slack at different rates, as ...
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5 votes

How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?

It's possible, even feasible, and I'll explain how to do so further down. I'd like first suggest that in the absence of a guide mode loop on your belay tube, your likely going to be better of using ...
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  • 2,702
4 votes

(Why) Should I hold the rope when belaying the second climber with Reverso?

Technically there shouldn't be a problem letting go of it. The conditions to this are that the setup is done correctly and there is no unforeseen failure. In the event of a failure there is not much ...
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4 votes

Which option should you use for a multi-pitch climbing anchor after traverse?

One issue with a long traverse is that if the second falls, they may be unable to easily get back on the route. This means that there is an increased likelihood that you will need to escape the belay. ...
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  • 10.5k
4 votes

What to do if the second seems stuck and absolutely no communication is possible?

What you could do is develop a rope-tug system for situations like this. E.g one tug = hard take, two tugs = slack, etc. This works better when the belayer is below, but it's still useful for ...
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4 votes

How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?

One thing you don't want to do is hang the ATC from an anchor by its wire loop and provide a belay from above. This method is a poor one because the braking position would require the brake strand to ...
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  • 4,417
3 votes

Which option should you use for a multi-pitch climbing anchor after traverse?

What you want to do is use a directional piece, but I would not recommend including this piece in your belay anchor. In option #2 up there you're going to switch from a 4 piece anchor to a 2 piece ...
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  • 53.1k
2 votes

Which option should you use for a multi-pitch climbing anchor after traverse?

I've yet to see a situation where it'd be harmful belaying your second from a fixed point (Option #1). You won't lose you footing in case s/he falls and since her/his rope is coming from above, there'...
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  • 1,451
1 vote

Multi-pitch sport climb: Rope too short for rappelling, but having a backup rope

We hate to use the term "safer" in climbing, but here's a method to manage risk a little more appropriately. Using this method, we'll never be off belay, and we'll never be trusting our life ...
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  • 126

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