19

There are two main schools of thought: the "fast and light" / "light is right" / "rope, rack, shirt on your back" camp and the "be prepared" / "safety first" crowd. When taken to extremes, blindly following either ethos can lead to trouble. Like most everything in the mountains, it comes down to experience on similar routes, judgement, acceptable risk ...


13

Of course you want to try simple things first, and waiting is a really simple thing to do. She solved the problem in 15 minutes, which doesn't even seem like an especially long time to me to wait for a second to do a pitch. It could take that long to clean a stuck piece of gear. Another simple solution would be to bring radios in the future, but that doesn't ...


12

All of the listed reasons hold true, and can largely be simplified to the fourth: never let go of the brake strand unless you have tied it off. This maintains good habits and also mitigates potential accidents. In the past, such devices have been considered hands-free if monitored (i.e. you're sitting next to it, the ropes are running cleanly, and you're ...


12

Are my fears of the anchor pieces popping out justified? Yes. This is an especially big concern when the climber has already placed the first piece of pro above the anchor, but falls before getting a second piece in. The fall factor can be large, and the direction of pull is up. If you don't have any gear that can hold against an upward pull, then your ...


10

Double Rope You need two ropes (of obviously different colours so as not to confuse them). Tie into both ropes, one on each side of your belay loop, your seconds will each tie into the other end of one of the ropes. When you set up your belay after you've led the climb, put both ropes into your belay device, you can belay for both of your seconds at once. ...


10

All of Ben's comments are great, but they mostly deal with what you could do once you are in this situation. Avoiding the situation all together might be easier than you think though and likely the better option. To do so, you would just need to extend your belay, or simply put - don't belay from the over the lip, belay at it. This is a technique I employ ...


10

While belaying two seconds at once using the method ShemSeger pointed out is my favorite, it does take a fair amount of experience so I would not recommend it to someone climbing for the first time with two seconds. If you're just starting out, I recommend you use the Caterpillar technique: You lead on a single rope and belay the second as you would ...


9

Toss the middle first. Throwing your rope isn't always the best solution. High winds, trees, and rocky slopes can make it easy for you to get your rope hung up. Throwing your rope is only really advisable if you're on a steep vertical cliff and there's little or no risk of getting your rope hung up on anything. When you do throw your rope though, it's ...


8

I am by no means an authority on lightning in any way. With that said, however, I have had my share of getting caught climbing in a thunderstorm, and have since tried to do some reading on the subject. The biggest hurdle to surmount here is that most lightning safety advice revolves around seeking shelter, which is often not a viable option midway up a ...


8

I assume you are only looking for options by going from belay to belay (as opposed to continuous securing like going on taught rope). Method using half-ropes: You tie in on both ropes, your partners on a single one each. They belay you normally on both ropes until you set up the belay-station. Then you secure them using a Munter hitch or a tuber like ...


7

First of all, don't coil your rope in the "usual" U-shape, like climbers do! (example picture) Or in ASCII art ___ ------- //// o \\\\ |||| |||| |||| |||| |||| |||| \\// \\// This form is good for carrying, but not for tossing. You mention "lap-coiled", so probably you already know that, but it's worth mentioning (for the likes of me ...


7

There is not much to add to Ben Crowell's great answer, just one point. So the next paragraph is merely a short version of his answer, skip to the second if you do not want to read it. If you have a good reason to believe that the second is not badly injured, lowering would be the first thing to try. Just slowly and not much at first. Climbing the wrong way ...


5

Its pretty easy for the 2 seconds being together or always nearby, and a bit stretchy for the one leading the climb (You). When I did one similar not-so-tough scramble, I used a trick that at least worked for me. I was climbing on a single rope, tied at the center & the two idiots with me were on a single strand each. I used a 8mm'er rope, light and ...


5

1) Is it possible to belay 2 climbers using the picture-2 ATC I think It would be as possible as belaying one leader using double ropes. You would need to take in slack at different rates, as apposed to give it out and prepare to hold a fall with either rope. (in case it isn't obvious) You would belay from your rope loop/belay loop instead of off the ...


5

It's possible, even feasible, and I'll explain how to do so further down. I'd like first suggest that in the absence of a guide mode loop on your belay tube, your likely going to be better of using another system like the auto-locking Italian hitch, than using your ATC XP or similar. Read here for more information on locking Italian Hitch: http://www....


5

Definiely do not attempt to keep them separate on the route. Uncoil and stack them separately at the start, but thereafter handle them as one. Make sure that leader and second both tie the same rope on the same side so that they are not crossed over. I've never used a rope basket, but it doesn't seem like a bad idea if you don't mind the weight. Otherwise ...


4

One issue with a long traverse is that if the second falls, they may be unable to easily get back on the route. This means that there is an increased likelihood that you will need to escape the belay. It is infinitely easier to escape the belay when you are belaying directly off the anchor. This means I would go with something like anchor 1. One issue with ...


4

Technically there shouldn't be a problem letting go of it. The conditions to this are that the setup is done correctly and there is no unforeseen failure. In the event of a failure there is not much that you holding onto the end of the rope could do to help control/save the situation, but who knows. Below is a link to question regarding the strength of atc ...


4

What you could do is develop a rope-tug system for situations like this. E.g one tug = hard take, two tugs = slack, etc. This works better when the belayer is below, but it's still useful for situations like this.


4

Just girth hitch a double length sling around your belay loop and clip a biner to the haul loop of your pack. Hang it between your legs while you chimney, shimmy or otherwise do whatchu gotta do. When you're out of the business, pull it up and put it back on your back. No extra gear, minimal time and fuss, little chance of it getting stuck because you can ...


4

Here's a detailed article on hauling called Hauling 101. Summary: Use a pulley Back up your pulley Use a safety line or tie yourself in independently Attach a 40 foot piece of static line (7 mm is a good diameter) permanently to the haul bag, to be used as a leash. This will help with lowering a lot.


4

One thing you don't want to do is hang the ATC from an anchor by its wire loop and provide a belay from above. This method is a poor one because the braking position would require the brake strand to go upward. But that's awkward and contrary to what people have in their muscle memory. (A workaround for this problem is to redirect the brake strand through a ...


3

From this site: The Rope Basket This system works well on stances where you are standing comfortably on a ledge, but you don't have enough space to flake the rope. It is also much easier if you are swinging leads. Your personal anchor system or tie-in is connected to your anchor, making a straight line to the rock. As your second climbs upward, you will ...


3

What you want to do is use a directional piece, but I would not recommend including this piece in your belay anchor. In option #2 up there you're going to switch from a 4 piece anchor to a 2 piece anchor as soon as the rope is weighted. Remove that piece, and place a bomber piece below your belay anchor, so that the redirected force is pulling down on your ...


2

I've yet to see a situation where it'd be harmful belaying your second from a fixed point (Option #1). You won't lose you footing in case s/he falls and since her/his rope is coming from above, there's no huge fall factor. Also Option #1 is far more simple than Option #2, so less possibilities to screw up.


2

It's risk management. The best way to handle a storm is to get down before it starts. Check the weather and be down by noon or whenever the weather normally gets genned up. If you're in a thunderstorm and you're very high, it is probably more dangerous to rush a technical descent than to wait out the storm or continue climbing (up or down) normally. Don't ...


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