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14 votes
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Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)

I believe the conventional way is to use a double (triple) fisherman's bend. This has the advantage of being and relatively compact. The main disadvantage is that it can be hard to undo if you need to....
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13 votes
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Abseiling on one rope: should I attach the prusik to the other one?

Pulling down ropes after abseiling in caving is common here in the UK, where a cave has an upper and a lower entrance with one or more pitches in between. We use Static rope and caving descenders are ...
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12 votes
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How do I know when to choose between a Klemheist or prussik knot?

As already stated, these are very similar knots regarding their use. So there is not much that differentiates them from each other, or to other friction hitches. The advantage of the prusik is the "...
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12 votes
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How to arrange 2 Prusiks when ascending a rope?

In case of ascending on a rockface it does not really matter which way round you use it. I put the chest-prusik above the foot-prusik, but this is only because of personal taste. By adjusting the ...
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11 votes

What is a bloquers?

It's what @imsodin said. Bloqueur is the french term for "blocker" in English. So when I talk about a bloqueur, I'm talking about blocking devices. The two that I use for ascending a rope are the ...
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10 votes

In canyoning, [why] do people skip a backup prusik?

Canyoneering has one major danger that is not (normally) one in mountaineering: water. If you get stuck abseiling along/in a waterfall and end up hanging in the waterfall, you can drown. An "engaged" ...
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10 votes
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In canyoning, [why] do people skip a backup prusik?

Canyoneering presents different risks than rock climbing because water is involved This comment on another post shows why water is an important factor (emphasis mine): Canyoneering with an ...
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9 votes

Abseiling on one rope: should I attach the prusik to the other one?

To answer your first question, it doesn't matter very much whether you put the prussik on the same strand as your dcd or on the free strand. One reason it might be considered safer is that putting the ...
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8 votes
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What is a bloquers?

I can only assume, that it derives from bloquer which is french for blocking. What the "c" is doing in there I have no clue - but then, I am not a native french speaker. In this case there are ...
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8 votes

Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)

I use the (double) Fisherman's knot for such cases. It's easy to tie and has a clear and concise form (easy to check if done right). As already mentioned in nivag's answer, it can be hard to untie if ...
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8 votes
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What is the difference between accessory cord and prusik cord?

Based on the picture the OP presents, the yellow prusik cord weave has each pair of threads (likely not the correct term) passing over 3 or 4 threads rather than two. This doubling of length and ...
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7 votes

Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)

Coming from a climbing and industrial rope access background, the double fisherman's is the recommended way to make a loop using rope/cord. Undoing the knot was never part of the question, however ...
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  • 1,003
7 votes

How to arrange 2 Prusiks when ascending a rope?

I always ascend the other way around (foot-prusik above the chest prusik). This allows for a bigger movement with your foot and hence a bigger climb during your ascend. Note: I actually use bloqueurs,...
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6 votes

Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)

How about a Figure 8 Bend? Easy to untie even under heavy load. We use them all the time in rock climbing.
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6 votes

Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)

I alternate between the double fisherman's (which everyone has already talked about) and the flat overhand. Lately I've been leaning towards the flat overhand. The benefit of the flat overhand is ...
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6 votes
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How to tie a Purcell prusik?

Note: You want to keep the double fisherman's knot close to the opposite end, but offset slightly, this gives you maximum adjustability while being able to use the far end as a prusik as well if ...
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4 votes
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How to tie a Purcell Prusik from a single end?

Note: This knot works better in smaller diameter cords, but its easier to demonstrate with larger ones so that is what is in the pictures. To start with you go over the top of the rope and then do 2-...
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3 votes

Is it safe to depend only on a prusik?

Much depends on how frequently you use prusiks. Back in college when i was caving a lot, we used prusiks tied in 1/4" Plymouth Goldline using a 9/16" chunk of goldline as our ascent/descent ...
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3 votes

How do I know when to choose between a Klemheist or prussik knot?

A prusik works in either direction, which is sometimes important. For example, if you were traversing using an old, fixed rope rigged horizontally, you could attach a prusik to it from your harness. ...
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2 votes

Abseiling on one rope: should I attach the prusik to the other one?

Regarding the hauling question, I suggest keeping the descender and prusik on the same strand. Here's my reasoning: It keeps the second strand free in case you need to rap down to the person to ...
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