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3

One locking carabiner might avoid some failure modes which apply to two quickdraws, but, as others have noted, it sacrifices redundancy. If you are concerned that two quickdraws might fail, you may make a couple "locking draws" specifically for anchors. Just attach small locking carabiners to a dogbone. That's what I have made for myself, mostly ...


-1

You can do a variety of techniques. There are trade-offs between speed and safety. The following is what I would do to make a very safe anchor that a bunch of people are going to climb on. It requires four carabiners, at least two of which should be locking, plus a cordelette or static rope. Ignore the chains and the rap ring -- especially the rap ring, ...


3

It is a good practice to backup a tope rope system, especially considering that There is only one anchor at the tope and no intermediate quickdraws Climbing far below, a visual check can be difficult Any sling rubbing on rock may be damaged pretty fast (mainly a problem on high-friction rock and around edges) Top rope climbing is often done by beginners ...


6

I did not look whether such a study exist, but I want to reason why it's futile to conduct such a study. Rock climbing performance depends way less on finger strength than most people assume (especially the pinky). To quote the teaching material of the german alpine club, a climbers' performance depends not only on physical precondition, but to a large ...


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