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1

Several options depending on climb, area, ethics, and anchor type. Leader gets lowered from anchor by belayer and follower cleans. This is the fastest and most efficient. (google endless arguments on lowering in mountain project) For an easy to clean route, the leader raps and cleans without pulling rope out of draws - rope left thru draws. Also for an ...


4

It depends, but I have made a habit to always leave the rope in the draws if I rapell from the anchors of a route. There is a good reason for this. On some routes it is easier to clean the draws if you pulled the rope through. On other routes it is easier if you left it in. However, the inconvenience of having the rope in the draws, rapping down on a ...


2

As always, it depends. There are devices, usually called "screamers", designed to be used instead of a regular runner to decrease the peak load in the event of a fall. However, they are bulkier and heavier than regular slings and usually not neccessary since the energy absorbsion of the rope and the strength of a bolt or a well placed nut or cam is ...


15

When rock climbing, it is true that sometimes a single anchor point is not fully reliable. In that case, it's MUCH better to improve safety by building a redundant anchor than to reduce the force of a fall by 50% using a fancy device like a fall arrester. Typically, 2-4 trusted anchor points (bolts, trees, or gear) are connected using a static rope (or ...


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