17

Ewww. I'm guessing they punch pin tags through $700 gore tex jackets as well? And condoms? Even if the amount of damage is minimal, it's still something I would rather not do to my rope. Some climbers do use a needle and thread/dental floss to make small whippings on the rope to indicate that the rope ends are approaching. However, there is a large ...


15

Yes, it is accepted practice to wash new Semi-Static rope (or Single Rope Technique/SRT Rope as it is known by cavers). Dave Elliot is a highly respected SRT expert, and he wrote the CNCC Rope Care page, which says: There are two reasons why new ropes are best washed before use. Washing removes the anti-static lubricants used in manufacture and also ...


10

No matter what, try not to use the spray-paints at all. Considering that fact that most of the spraypaint and allied products contain solvents/chemicals like CCl4, Acetone, Methyl ethyl ketone, Ethylbenzene, Butoxyethanol and Xylene, etc. If I were you, I would not use it on my ropes for that matter. Dedicated Rope Markers : Spend some bucks and get a rope ...


8

Yes, it's very common to braid a fast rope for climbing out of old rock climbing rope, however the key word there is old. You would typically use whatever retired climbing rope you can get your hands on, as purchasing new rope specifically for this would be very costly. If using rock climbing rope, the the type, whether static or dynamic, dry treated or ...


8

What you want to learn to tie is a Kiwi Coil. A kiwi coil is an alpine coil you manage and wear while still tied into the end of your rope. Tie in as you normally would while climbing or glacier walking, then coil as much rope as you want around your body. Tie off in the middle of the rope by passing a bight of rope through your belay loop and around the ...


7

They shrink, apparently. For example, Beal's Precautions says: Before first use, soak the rope and leave to dry slowly. It will shrink by about 5%. Take this into account when calculating required lengths. And first use means just that: The very first time the rope is used.


6

I used fishermans thread, the sort used to bind the guide loops to the rod, as a whipping around the approriate point.


5

There are rope manufacturers which mark their half ropes in the middle (as an option) or even produce them with different colors on both sides (Beal half ropes). For the reasons already mentioned, this is not standard. When abseiling you use both ropes so the middle is their connection. Still, when climbing alpine routes, I like to have the middle markers ...


5

Definiely do not attempt to keep them separate on the route. Uncoil and stack them separately at the start, but thereafter handle them as one. Make sure that leader and second both tie the same rope on the same side so that they are not crossed over. I've never used a rope basket, but it doesn't seem like a bad idea if you don't mind the weight. Otherwise ...


4

The way I have always done that is wrap the extra rope around my self. It goes over one shoulder and then under the the arm on the other side. Then, in addition to tying it at the end of the rope with a figure-eight like normal, you tie another figure-of-eight on a byte and clip that to your belay loop with a locking carabiner.


4

Just girth hitch a double length sling around your belay loop and clip a biner to the haul loop of your pack. Hang it between your legs while you chimney, shimmy or otherwise do whatchu gotta do. When you're out of the business, pull it up and put it back on your back. No extra gear, minimal time and fuss, little chance of it getting stuck because you can ...


4

Here's a detailed article on hauling called Hauling 101. Summary: Use a pulley Back up your pulley Use a safety line or tie yourself in independently Attach a 40 foot piece of static line (7 mm is a good diameter) permanently to the haul bag, to be used as a leash. This will help with lowering a lot.


3

From this site: The Rope Basket This system works well on stances where you are standing comfortably on a ledge, but you don't have enough space to flake the rope. It is also much easier if you are swinging leads. Your personal anchor system or tie-in is connected to your anchor, making a straight line to the rock. As your second climbs upward, you will ...


3

The German Alpine Club (DAV) tested several permanent marker pen inks (Edding 3000, Retract 11 and Staedtler Lumocolor) and found no reduction in rope strength in static tests. So I would feel pretty safe in using one of them, despite the fact that they are not specifically sold as "rope markers". Roughly translated from German: It makes sense to mark ...


3

If this happens, you want to stop the climber and try and untwist by flicking the rope out with your non brake hand without releasing the braking strand. You can also try flicking the loops out with your brake hand so long as it stays behind the braking plane. Honestly though, this should be less of a problem since you aren't dealing with munter hitches, ...


3

This is part of rope management. Your situation sounds like a common one where you are belaying a leader from the ground with a rope out of a rope bag that b has not been flaked prior to the climb. Lots of climbers do this all the time. I suggest two things. The first is to monitor how many kinks you run into on a climb and when things start to get ...


2

One quick way to deal with twists in a rope if you're single pitching is to switch ends on the rope you're climbing with. When it's your turn to climb, instead of tying into the same end the last climber was on, you can pull their end while they are untying until your end is just off the ground. Let the twists out while it's hanging and then tie into the end ...


2

BlueWater Ropes says: Marking pens are fine to use on ropes as long as they are water based laundry markers. Years ago solvent based markers were the norm. Some of the solvents used in these old pens could reduce the strength of the sheath strands marked. These days most pens are water based so this is not as much of an issue as in years passed. We ...


2

I use a figure-eight loop. Fairly easy to remove when you need to. Also gives the possibility to descend on one or two ends of the rope if the middle is brought to your anchor. Edit1: Of course not to permanently damage your core, it is advised to regularly (eg after each trip) take out the knot. This way the core gets a chance to recover. Edit2: I ...


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