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18 votes
Accepted

Compromised Ropes in Retail Stores

Ewww. I'm guessing they punch pin tags through $700 gore tex jackets as well? And condoms? Even if the amount of damage is minimal, it's still something I would rather not do to my rope. Some climbers ...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,252
8 votes
Accepted

How to "store" excess rope in a running belay?

What you want to learn to tie is a Kiwi Coil. A kiwi coil is an alpine coil you manage and wear while still tied into the end of your rope. Tie in as you normally would while climbing or glacier ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
8 votes
Accepted

What type of rope should I use to make a 1.5" Gym Climbing rope?

Yes, it's very common to braid a fast rope for climbing out of old rock climbing rope, however the key word there is old. You would typically use whatever retired climbing rope you can get your hands ...
David Scarlett's user avatar
5 votes

How to safely mark a rope

The German Alpine Club (DAV) tested several permanent marker pen inks (Edding 3000, Retract 11 and Staedtler Lumocolor) and found no reduction in rope strength in static tests. So I would feel pretty ...
anderas's user avatar
  • 4,447
4 votes

How to "store" excess rope in a running belay?

The way I have always done that is wrap the extra rope around my self. It goes over one shoulder and then under the the arm on the other side. Then, in addition to tying it at the end of the rope with ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
3 votes

Dealing with twists in a rope while belaying

If this happens, you want to stop the climber and try and untwist by flicking the rope out with your non brake hand without releasing the braking strand. You can also try flicking the loops out with ...
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
3 votes

How to safely mark a rope

BlueWater Ropes says: Marking pens are fine to use on ropes as long as they are water based laundry markers. Years ago solvent based markers were the norm. Some of the solvents used in these old ...
endolith's user avatar
  • 947
3 votes
Accepted

Dealing with twists in a rope while belaying

This is part of rope management. Your situation sounds like a common one where you are belaying a leader from the ground with a rope out of a rope bag that b has not been flaked prior to the climb. ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
2 votes

Dealing with twists in a rope while belaying

One quick way to deal with twists in a rope if you're single pitching is to switch ends on the rope you're climbing with. When it's your turn to climb, instead of tying into the same end the last ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
2 votes
Accepted

Alternating between twin and half rope technique

When leading a pitch I will sometimes switch from twin to half, but never back. Here's why. First, some definitions, assuming you're climbing with two ropes that are certified as both twin and half: ...
Felix's user avatar
  • 6,869
1 vote
Accepted

How to rig a haul bag so I can move it up/down while midair?

Raising You can improve your system by adding a pulley to tend the Prusik knot. The pulley is placed on the running side of the rope below the load-bearing Prusik, and is then connected to the load-...
Mr.Wizard's user avatar
  • 9,526
1 vote

Multi-pitch sport climb: Rope too short for rappelling, but having a backup rope

We hate to use the term "safer" in climbing, but here's a method to manage risk a little more appropriately. Using this method, we'll never be off belay, and we'll never be trusting our life ...
adeadhead's user avatar
  • 133
1 vote

Alternating between twin and half rope technique

(source) If a rope is certified both as twin and half rope, it is allowed to clip either a single strand or two strands. If you alternate your clipping style within one pitch, you might be facing ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,445

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