18 votes
Accepted

Compromised Ropes in Retail Stores

Ewww. I'm guessing they punch pin tags through $700 gore tex jackets as well? And condoms? Even if the amount of damage is minimal, it's still something I would rather not do to my rope. Some climbers ...
  • 3,823
16 votes
Accepted

Semi-static rope 24 hour rule

Yes, it is accepted practice to wash new Semi-Static rope (or Single Rope Technique/SRT Rope as it is known by cavers). Dave Elliot is a highly respected SRT expert, and he wrote the CNCC Rope Care ...
  • 5,942
10 votes

How to safely mark a rope

No matter what, try not to use the spray-paints at all. Considering that fact that most of the spraypaint and allied products contain solvents/chemicals like CCl4, Acetone, Methyl ethyl ketone, ...
  • 31.5k
8 votes
Accepted

What type of rope should I use to make a 1.5" Gym Climbing rope?

Yes, it's very common to braid a fast rope for climbing out of old rock climbing rope, however the key word there is old. You would typically use whatever retired climbing rope you can get your hands ...
8 votes
Accepted

How to "store" excess rope in a running belay?

What you want to learn to tie is a Kiwi Coil. A kiwi coil is an alpine coil you manage and wear while still tied into the end of your rope. Tie in as you normally would while climbing or glacier ...
  • 53.2k
7 votes

Semi-static rope 24 hour rule

They shrink, apparently. For example, Beal's Precautions says: Before first use, soak the rope and leave to dry slowly. It will shrink by about 5%. Take this into account when calculating ...
  • 3,916
5 votes
Accepted

Do Half/Twin/Double Ropes get Middle Marked?

There are rope manufacturers which mark their half ropes in the middle (as an option) or even produce them with different colors on both sides (Beal half ropes). For the reasons already mentioned, ...
  • 21.6k
5 votes

How to safely mark a rope

I used fishermans thread, the sort used to bind the guide loops to the rod, as a whipping around the approriate point.
4 votes

How to safely mark a rope

The German Alpine Club (DAV) tested several permanent marker pen inks (Edding 3000, Retract 11 and Staedtler Lumocolor) and found no reduction in rope strength in static tests. So I would feel pretty ...
  • 4,417
4 votes

How to "store" excess rope in a running belay?

The way I have always done that is wrap the extra rope around my self. It goes over one shoulder and then under the the arm on the other side. Then, in addition to tying it at the end of the rope with ...
3 votes

Dealing with twists in a rope while belaying

If this happens, you want to stop the climber and try and untwist by flicking the rope out with your non brake hand without releasing the braking strand. You can also try flicking the loops out with ...
3 votes
Accepted

Dealing with twists in a rope while belaying

This is part of rope management. Your situation sounds like a common one where you are belaying a leader from the ground with a rope out of a rope bag that b has not been flaked prior to the climb. ...
  • 10.6k
3 votes

How to safely mark a rope

BlueWater Ropes says: Marking pens are fine to use on ropes as long as they are water based laundry markers. Years ago solvent based markers were the norm. Some of the solvents used in these old ...
  • 762
2 votes

How to safely mark a rope

I use a figure-eight loop. Fairly easy to remove when you need to. Also gives the possibility to descend on one or two ends of the rope if the middle is brought to your anchor. Edit1: Of course not ...
  • 771
2 votes

Dealing with twists in a rope while belaying

One quick way to deal with twists in a rope if you're single pitching is to switch ends on the rope you're climbing with. When it's your turn to climb, instead of tying into the same end the last ...
  • 53.2k
2 votes
Accepted

Alternating between twin and half rope technique

When leading a pitch I will sometimes switch from twin to half, but never back. Here's why. First, some definitions, assuming you're climbing with two ropes that are certified as both twin and half: ...
  • 6,769
1 vote

How to rig a haul bag so I can move it up/down while midair?

Raising You can improve your system by adding a pulley to tend the Prusik knot. The pulley is placed on the running side of the rope below the load-bearing Prusik, and is then connected to the load-...
  • 9,445
1 vote

Multi-pitch sport climb: Rope too short for rappelling, but having a backup rope

We hate to use the term "safer" in climbing, but here's a method to manage risk a little more appropriately. Using this method, we'll never be off belay, and we'll never be trusting our life ...
  • 126
1 vote

Alternating between twin and half rope technique

(source) If a rope is certified both as twin and half rope, it is allowed to clip either a single strand or two strands. If you alternate your clipping style within one pitch, you might be facing ...
  • 6,465

Only top scored, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible