9

Regarding Grading That's a very common question for people new to competition climbing. Route setting for competition is in general quite different than for "regular" gym routes. Route setters at comps have several, sometimes conflicting requirements, which also vary depending on the round (quali, semi, finals): Create spread Nothing more unnerving than ...


8

This piece of advice is commonly given to new routesetters, and should generally be taken as a reminder of best practices rather than scientific dogma. For example, Most climbers don't onsight 5.13 and V12. While you should try to set routes for these climbers, you should remember that the bulk of your clientele (=profit) comes from climbers in the 5.10-5....


7

It is a lot of trial and error. Setting bouldering problems tends to be easier since they are shorter. The biggest thing to consider is height. Assuming you are reasonably tall individual, solicit feedback from some of the strong junior climbers. They will often be able to tell you where they need an extra foot chip to make a reach or even use it as a hand ...


6

The bell curve in the post you have referenced is simply just a visual representation of some statistics; Namely, the number of climbers the gym serves, that are able to climb at any specific climbing grade. It may look slightly different at each gym, but if you were to add up these numbers yourself and plot them, you could create a similar representative ...


6

Forcing moves is one of the hardest things to accomplish in route setting. In general, setting easy routes is easy, setting hard routes is even easier, but setting beta specific intermediate routes can be next to impossible. One of the most effective methods I've found for establishing interesting problems that force specific beta is to play take-away. ...


3

A bell curve simply measures your median level of climbing ability in your gym. The "science" behind it is simply to cater to your customers, you need to set routes to attract the biggest demographic to your gym, which for most gyms is in the easy to intermediate range. At my local wall, one of the ways we would determine the "median" of our climbing ...


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