This term is pretty vague. This paragraph describes it pretty well however:
Dry camping means different things to many people. The common
definition I hear from people is camping in a location where
electric/water/sewer connections are not available at each site. This
definition is very broad and includes everything from camping at a
Teflon is a brand name. The scientific name is Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).
Searching more I find there are food grade PTFE lubricants available. (Super Lube)
Points making PTFE appropriate for this application
Great for installing some faucet stems and cartridges
Food grade. U.S.D.A. rated H-1
Odorless, clean, non-staining
The biggest danger is a broken ground wire, and some leakage path from the hot to the chassis of your camper. That puts the whole chassis of the camper at high voltage. That's actually no danger to you if you're in it, but is a danger when you are connected to ground outside and touch the chassis.
Even then, any competent installation will have circuit ...
If it's mold based, then my understanding is that borax or hydrogen peroxide are effective remedies.
Soap is not very effective against mold.
If you don't think it will damage the awning, I recommend scrubbing it with a borax-based solution. When in doubt, test it on a small less-visible section first.
There are fuel cells with 12V output designed for this application, at least considering it as a battery charging task (random internet example at 100W). Methanol cells are more expensive but the fuel is easier to store.
Certainly they get much more expensive as the power output increases.
(Included for completeness)
Not an answer: LPG generators are ...
In the UK, the form of camping you are referring to is known as Wild Camping.
This is pitching up where there are no electrical, water or sanitary facilities. The term applies equally to camping in tents and parking a motorhome / camper van.
Note though that in England and Wales, the practice is illegal. Except in some of the National Parks. However, it ...
Ideally the hot water tank should be plumbed in a manner in which it can be drained without affecting the rest of the system. Typically this means either nothing comes out of the hot water taps when it is bypassed or cold water does. Your best bet would be to flush the system at home, then drain the hot water tank, and then drive with an empty hot water tank....
it doesn't matter, your pipes will freeze long before the tanks will. At best the Mpemba effect buys you another hour before freezing sets in, however your pipes will simply not take an hour to freeze in freezing temps, so the effect will be very minimal. The solution for long duration freezing temps is to install a re-circulator pump, if your RV is too ...
I'd use food storage boxes - yes, plural, for flexibility in arranging the fridge. The good quality ones with an o-ring in the lid should seal tight (in practice they're not always airtight for long but will still contain all but a few drops of sloshing water). I have a 2l box here, so 4 of those would be the volume you want.
For smaller cool bags I've ...
Charge controllers are your friend here.
A good charge controller will monitor the circuit such that the battery gets the appropriate charging current at all times. This allows you to set up all your charging circuits independently, each with its own charge controller hooked up to the battery, with the load circuit running through one of the charge ...
One reason not is tongue weight. Over 60% of the vehicle weight is on hitch.
A truck is designed to take a load in the bed so there is extra capacity. Most tow trucks are double rear wheel.
On an RV the frame is already loaded to near capacity.
It depends on the device but 5-7 years seems like the max with some as short as 2 years.
The gas sensors in CO alarms have a limited and indeterminable life span, typically two to five years. The test button on a CO alarm only tests the battery and circuitry, not the sensor. CO alarms should be tested with an external source of calibrated test gas, as ...
I have a setup like this in my VW campervan.
The vehicle was originally equipped with a charge controller that receives input from both the vehicle alternator and a 240V mains hookup and charges either the main or leisure battery as necessary.
I fitted solar panels - with their own charge controller. These were purchased from a closing down sale (Maplin) ...
For marine covers there are some cleaning products made on purpose that you could use on the awning too.
The DIY route consists in solutions of bleach+water or ammonia+water that tend to be nasty to deal with and dispose of (cant just let them on the ground), they do work. Peroxide is another solution, safer but a bit less effective. Beware that they can ...
A lot depends on how the water system in your RV works. Some RV's really aren't made for winter use. Others are designed from square one to be usable at cold temps. These will have heat tapes on the plumbing, well insulated water and sewage storage tanks, and drain systems that are easy to access.
As others have mentioned, the pipes are the first things ...
For traveling we will pre-freeze pop bottles with ice or juice. When we stop at a motel, we refreeze the bottles. This works well. As we drink the juice, we will refill with water.
For your use, you need something with a wider opening for ice cubes. Peanut butter jars work well for this, as most of them are plastic. Some mayo jars too are plastic.
Just for reference: in thru-hiking terminology, dry camping is camping far from any water source. It basically means that you have to carry all the water you'll need for the evening and the next day (until you meet water).
I'd advise against plugging in a 30 to 15 amp converter and using it directly.
If something short circuits in your 15 amp cabling it might not be enough to trip the 30 amp breaker (if there even is one) on the electricity pole.
As noted in the description it's made for RV's and in my experience those always have a breaker panel inside to provide the required ...
Notice that the ad says:
For use when RV has 15 AMP power and needs to plug into 30 AMP power source
Now notice the 15 Amp receptacle side of the adaptor:
This is a standard household outlet, which I suspect matches your charger's plug.
I.e. if you rent the 15A hookup, you shouldn't need an adaptor.
(But it's good to confirm this when making the ...
This seems like a contradiction, if you are worried about freezing, then it would be better not to have any water in the tank/pipes where it could freeze and cause problems, and if not then it really doesn't matter whether or not it was hot or cold to start with.
Also, as long as the journey is, it probably won't matter as the hot water will cool down to ...
I am not an Expert the following is the result of a basic knowledge of electricity and extensive research, specific to this issue. I welcome constructive review and suggestions there is a lot of complex considerations and I have tried to balance brevity with concise and accurate descriptions.
When using electricity provide through a commercial power grid ...
I'm not totally clear on your power requirements, but what about solar? For smaller applications there are companies like Goal Zero that provide camp-friendly, turn-key battery and solar panel applications.
If the RV is large you could probably contact a major solar installer to line the roof with panels and outfit it with the proper sized battery bank.