12 votes
Accepted

How to arrange 2 Prusiks when ascending a rope?

In case of ascending on a rockface it does not really matter which way round you use it. I put the chest-prusik above the foot-prusik, but this is only because of personal taste. By adjusting the ...
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10 votes
Accepted

Leader injured during multipitch trad climb, what to do?

To start with, each situation will be different. E.g. if you have an overhang and your partner is hanging freely in space, you may need to handle things a bit differently. Lowering an unconscious ...
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  • 8,368
9 votes
Accepted

Self rescue procedure when falling through ice, but the ice keeps breaking

What do you do in this situation? Just keep moving, trying to basically swim through the ice, while breaking it hoping to reach thicker ice or the shore? More or less, yes with two caveats. If ...
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  • 10.6k
8 votes
Accepted

Belay with a broken arm

This is simply a Clove Hitch on the belay loop. It could be quite effective to use instead of a belay plate if you can only use one hand because it doesn't require you to hold either side of the rope -...
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  • 2,702
7 votes

Leader injured during multipitch trad climb, what to do?

Although there is information on various websites and forums on self-rescue techniques, you really cannot learn enough to cope with a situation just by reading about it without a LOT of hands-on ...
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  • 5,942
7 votes

How to arrange 2 Prusiks when ascending a rope?

I always ascend the other way around (foot-prusik above the chest prusik). This allows for a bigger movement with your foot and hence a bigger climb during your ascend. Note: I actually use bloqueurs,...
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  • 771
7 votes

Drinking alcohol as the last choice in survival situation

As many other posters pointed out, drinking alcohol to prevent dehydration is counter-productive. However, there are other uses for a bottle of high-proof booze in a survival situation. When its ...
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  • 927
4 votes

What are the options for kayak self-rescue without a paddle float?

If you are confident and not out of breath, reattach the skirt before the roll after upside-down re-entry (re-entry and roll mentioned above). It takes a lot of effort and maybe a nose plug. But if ...
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  • 41
4 votes
Accepted

Drinking alcohol as the last choice in survival situation

Alcohol is poisonous, it saturates your blood with sugars and will dehydrate you faster as your body sucks your own cells dry in need of water to dilute those sugars. If you're in a survival situation,...
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  • 53.1k
4 votes

Drinking alcohol as the last choice in survival situation

If all I had was some liquor, I would not be drinking that. Drinking alcohol causes dehydration, so while you might feel some very very temporary relief from having liquid in your throat, it's going ...
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  • 8,620
3 votes

Belay with a broken arm

He was demonstrating how to tie a Clove Hitch one-handed for setting up a belay when one arm is broken. The karabiner in the knot is to help release and untie it afterwards.
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  • 5,942
1 vote

Drinking alcohol as the last choice in survival situation

Alcohol is a high flammable liquid so better answer is to spread it all over the woods (if there's any) and make a spark, the help will reach you faster than you thought. ;)
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  • 29
1 vote

What are the options for kayak self-rescue without a paddle float?

One more piece of gear worth considering, if you plan to do solo trips or group trips in conditions that might separate the group, are inflatable sponsons—-long narrow inflatable tubes stowed ...
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  • 3,466

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