34 votes

How can someone fall 3m to the ground while top-roping & how to prevent it?

If you're top roping on a 14.5m climb, 10% stretch* in the 29m of rope between you will be up to 2.9m. In practice there's less rope than that between you, but if there's a little slack in the rope on ...
Separatrix's user avatar
  • 8,097
18 votes

How can someone fall 3m to the ground while top-roping & how to prevent it?

Not aiming to repeat what Separatrix has said; So assuming he's going to be hitting the floor just because of the stretch, you want to minimise slack. To do this, firstly you want to see if there's a ...
UKMonkey's user avatar
  • 280
12 votes
Accepted

(Why) Should I hold the rope when belaying the second climber with Reverso?

All of the listed reasons hold true, and can largely be simplified to the fourth: never let go of the brake strand unless you have tied it off. This maintains good habits and also mitigates potential ...
requiem's user avatar
  • 8,438
12 votes
Accepted

Is a single strand of webbing unacceptable for climbing anchors?

As with most things in climbing, I myself would not go as far as saying this is generally unacceptable. In multipoint anchors there are often single strand connections between one point and the ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
12 votes
Accepted

How to belay top-rope climbers who are ascending quickly?

Special devices: @imsodin is right in suggesting a GriGri. For the method: The common trick is to have two "belayers." One attaches the GriGri on their harness as usual. The second person stands ...
jhch's user avatar
  • 1,119
12 votes

Would top-roping in this limestone quarry be reasonable?

From the technical side I do not see any major issues. Assuming you made a proper, redundant top-rope anchor, your main concern should be a possible sharp edge at the top which can be countered with a ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,255
11 votes

How can someone fall 3m to the ground while top-roping & how to prevent it?

Rope stretch is definitely a factor, but something I always do when I am unsure is I sit on the rope before climbing. What I mean is to have the belayer take in any loose rope, and then let your body ...
Ice76's user avatar
  • 534
9 votes

Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?

In addition to the other answer I'd like to add that ropes are way safer than webbing in a scenarion where it actually comes in contact with rock. This is the case in top rope anchors when you have to ...
flawr's user avatar
  • 1,747
8 votes

Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?

Static rope may not be that much more expensive than equivalent tape and is certainly a lot more versatile. In particular rope gives you a lot more options for reliable knots which are also be ...
Chris Johns's user avatar
  • 6,202
7 votes

When making an anchor with static rope around a boulder, what knot should I use

Your current choices are good. For a fixed loop in the middle of a rope, an alpine butterfly is a solid choice. I can think of alternatives, but no really better ones. For a loop at the end of the ...
Guran's user avatar
  • 1,972
7 votes

How to inspect climbing bolts?

To add to a set of already great answers I would like to add two points: Glued bolts and weird old bolts. There are generally two types of bolts used presently: Mechanical and glued bolts. Mechanical ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
7 votes

How to inspect climbing bolts?

In old routes in European (at least) mountains and in quarries used by cavers for training you can find small expansion bolts called spits or Cheville Autoforeuse. They use just 8 mm thick screws and ...
Vladimir F Героям слава's user avatar
6 votes

How can I transfer my weight to a toprope anchor at the bolts?

I wouldn't do this the way you propose. If I understand you correctly, you want to clip the top bolt, then have your belayer hold your weight while you set up a top anchor, and you want to know how to ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
6 votes

How can I transfer my weight to a toprope anchor at the bolts?

You are clearly overthinking this. Even if your are hanging freely, you should be able to take away your weight from the rope by pulling on gear and unclip the quickdraw (there is nothing that can go ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
6 votes

How to belay top-rope climbers who are ascending quickly?

I'd very much recommend using a GriGri or one of the newer device with the same mechanism. Reason being, the braking mechanism is not dependent on the position of the braking hand. Thus you can pull ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
6 votes

Top Rope Anchors - is a figure-8 on a bight stronger or just easier to untie than an overhand knot?

This answer does not provide much new information to Ben Crowell's and Charlie Brumbaugh's, but I am not entirely in agreement with all their different conclusions. TLDR: In your use case and most use ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
6 votes
Accepted

Is there a reasonable way to build a toprope anchor if the only available natural anchor points are greater than 90 degrees apart?

Assuming there is no option to add cams, nuts or bolts where you want, I see the following options: extend the anchor so far that the angle gets below 90 degrees. This is obviously limited by the ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,255
5 votes

How can someone fall 3m to the ground while top-roping & how to prevent it?

You did slow his fall. Assume 15 meters of rope to the top then 12 meters back to him for a total of 27 meters. Stretch = 3/27 = 1/9. So just over 10%. And that assumes no slack in the line. ...
paparazzo's user avatar
  • 7,166
5 votes

How can someone fall 3m to the ground while top-roping & how to prevent it?

Besides technically identifying where the slack came from, don't lose the simple moral: the belayer actually has to work pretty hard in the first few meters of the top rope route to keep the rope taut....
djechlin's user avatar
  • 602
5 votes

Why static rope rather than webbing for toprope anchors?

It's not specifically answering your question (I don't use either rope or webbing in my anchors, yet) but I really wanted to say that I'm a huge fan of having a chunk of static rope near my anchors. ...
STW's user avatar
  • 1,450
5 votes

A method to retrieve a carabiner

I believe that what you are referring to is called the "Texas Rope Trick". I hope that it's obvious that this is an incredibly risky idea and that you are better off just leaving the carabiner.
Charlie Brumbaugh's user avatar
4 votes

Top Rope Anchors - is a figure-8 on a bight stronger or just easier to untie than an overhand knot?

Doesn't really matter for top roping, you've got so much rope out when you're top roping that when you take a fall pretty much all the force is absorbed by the rope, your anchor is holding only a ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
4 votes

(Why) Should I hold the rope when belaying the second climber with Reverso?

Technically there shouldn't be a problem letting go of it. The conditions to this are that the setup is done correctly and there is no unforeseen failure. In the event of a failure there is not much ...
user11360's user avatar
3 votes

Is a single strand of webbing unacceptable for climbing anchors?

A single strand of 1" tube webbing has a breaking strength of almost 18kN. which is 50% more than the total amount of force any climber will ever be able to generate (12kN), but the safety standard is ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
3 votes

How to belay top-rope climbers who are ascending quickly?

Ask them to slow down since their speed is affecting your ability to provide a belay. Don't deviate from your standard belay method
Rob Jarvis's user avatar
3 votes

How to use a static rope as a tether at the anchor of a top rope climb?

This seems like a dangerous setup for using a static rope. If the top right anchor fails as you are weighting the instructor tether, the instructor could fall a meter or so. On a dynamic rope, this is ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k

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