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15 votes

Belaying with a figure 8 plate and weird mode

The small hole clips into your carabiner and the rope goes through the big hole and around the shaft, not through the small hole. Like this (from Canyoneering USA (CUSA)):
bob1's user avatar
  • 10.6k
13 votes
Accepted

Is there a utility / method to organize trad gear so that each piece is immediately accessible?

When racking up, you have a spectrum of possibilities between two extremes: At one end, you could put every single piece of gear on the same carabiner. While the weight savings would be incredible, ...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,207
12 votes
Accepted

How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope

I am sure there is no simple formula to add everything up as the load of a high factor fall is not increasing linearly. There have been experiments conducted by Pit Schubert in which he tested a rope ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,285
12 votes
Accepted

How to second a "french free" / A0 move?

Assuming a vertical, as opposed to traversing, route that is not overhanging, you unclip the rope from the piece and then pull yourself up just like the leader did. Once you are high enough above the ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
11 votes
Accepted

What is the best way to place a sling on a rock spike so that it's prevented from lifting off?

Here are some ideas, with the usefulness depending on the terrain and rock quality and the terrain: Hold it down with an upside-down nut: Place a nut below the spike and clip it to the sling. The nut ...
anderas's user avatar
  • 4,447
10 votes

Belaying with a figure 8 plate and weird mode

Please use safety devices as described in the manual and do not just invent your own modes of belaying. (And ensure your carabiners are screwed close) The first variant basically is a single ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,285
9 votes

Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?

I've been thinking if it is possible to achieve anything (worthy of mention) for someone who started at [36] Lee Sheftel started climbing at 33, climbed 5.14a at 59 and 5.13b at 68 Margarita Martinez ...
endolith's user avatar
  • 927
8 votes
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Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner

Nobody ever complained of having too many carabiners; you did not waste your money no matter what you do with it right now. Clip it to a stopper knot on the end of your reserve/back-up rope, or use it ...
Jimmy Fix-it's user avatar
7 votes
Accepted

Question about climbing in "A Line Across the Sky"

In his book "The Push" he describes this a bit. Most of the time they were using a running belay which means they were climbing at the same time with some pieces of protection in between them to avoid ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,285
7 votes

Are nuts and cams less safe if the rock is wet?

The short answer to that is yes - but the real answer is it depends. If you are climbing on sandstone, this could actually be very dangerous & unethical. The issue with sandstone is that it tends ...
Francky_V's user avatar
  • 510
7 votes

What is wrong with this belay setup?

I see what is essentially an direct belay but rigged off the harness serving as a pseudo indirect/body belay, you also have a direct clip-in to a third piece as a personal backup. The good. You are ...
crasic's user avatar
  • 1,333
7 votes

What to do when one point in a climbing anchor breaks?

I disagree with the other answer. If you are anchored to 2 "solid" pieces and one fails, you are now in a non-redundant state and your goal should be to resolve that situation as quickly and safely as ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
7 votes

What would be the disadvantage of racking trad gear around the shoulders rather than the harness, if any?

Developing a flexible system for racking your gear I guess that racking using a particular pack would work in certain specific circumstances, but to me it looks inflexible: Everything is in a fixed ...
Tullochgorum's user avatar
  • 11.7k
7 votes

Belaying with a figure 8 plate and weird mode

please do not use the figure 8 in the manner proposed if you want a much longer life. there is a fundamental problem with your proposal in that the figure 8 descender is not attached to your body via ...
mystic knight's user avatar
6 votes
Accepted

What would be the disadvantage of racking trad gear around the shoulders rather than the harness, if any?

First of all, racking on your shoulders isn't meant to substitute racking on your belt. Supplementary shoulder racks are meant to provide you with additional racking points for climbs where you are ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
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6 votes
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Guide mode ATC with locker to belay loop

I would definitely discourage this. Accidentially releasing the device is dangerous and can lead to fatal incidents. Moreover, releasing the device is rarely needed to my experience. Therefore this ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,285
6 votes

What is wrong with this belay setup?

Your belay is freaking complex. I spent some minutes looking at it and I have a hard time to grasp it in its entirety. A complex belay in itself violates 2 important rules: A belay needs to be fast ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,285
5 votes

Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner

I've used a twist lock carabiner to secure a water bottle holder or glasses case to a bag. When travelling in a city, this prevents opportunist thieves from easily unhooking the item from my bag.
Matthew Martin's user avatar
5 votes

Will aid climbing make you a better trad climber?

In aid climbing the frequency of difficult placements and the length of potential falls essentially determines the grade. Basically anything A2/C2 and up is going to require you to use some ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
3 votes

Guide mode ATC with locker to belay loop

This is very dangerous, the plastic retaining loop is not load bearing and it can be absent or broken, even if it holds your weight you can cause an uncontrollable fall in your second by simply ...
crasic's user avatar
  • 1,333
3 votes

How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope

Manziel's answer is very good. A detail that was left out, however, is that ropes are just very big elastic bands. Instead of relying on polymer chains expanding, they work by deforming twisted nylon ...
QuantumBrick's user avatar
  • 3,379
3 votes

Placing protection efficiently when leading trad?

I think a big part of speeding up is scouting the route from the ground (or knowing the area) and modifying your gear to the area in question. If you are climbing at Indian Creek, you need a lot of ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
3 votes

What to do when one point in a climbing anchor breaks?

While I technically agree with Liam's answer, I think there is two reasons why I would act differently: Purely for psychological reasons (personal peace of mind) and to keep redundancy consistent. ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
3 votes

Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?

If you're looking for goals then look to the best purpose for climbing "To continually climb better than yourself", obviously while having fun along the way. While others here have mentioned ...
The Coder's user avatar
  • 131
2 votes

What is wrong with this belay setup?

There is a lot going on there and I am not really sure what the system is, but at a minimum The figure eight on the pink rope is not properly dressed. The locking carabiners are not opposite and ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
2 votes

What would be the disadvantage of racking trad gear around the shoulders rather than the harness, if any?

One obvious disadvantage would be climbing chimneys and shoulder cracks will be trickier, since you don't have most of your back to press against some wall, this should even be true (but less so) if ...
knitti's user avatar
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