Raz Peel
  • Member for 7 years, 8 months
  • Last seen more than 1 year ago
Rappelling using the Munter hitch - stopper knot at the end of the rope?
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5 votes

TLDR; Join yourself to the ends of the rope. My preference if the rope isn't on the ground is towards tieing an overhand on a bight on each side and clipping them both my belay loop. This strategy ...

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Origin of the "bell curve" for rock climbing route setting
6 votes

The bell curve in the post you have referenced is simply just a visual representation of some statistics; Namely, the number of climbers the gym serves, that are able to climb at any specific climbing ...

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What to do if the second seems stuck and absolutely no communication is possible?
12 votes

All of Ben's comments are great, but they mostly deal with what you could do once you are in this situation. Avoiding the situation all together might be easier than you think though and likely the ...

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Would tied strips of webbing have similar strength to a climbing rope?
11 votes

If your intending to top-rope with it, or unimaginably lead climb on it, then absolutely not... ever. Polypropylene not only has a super low melting point, but the fibres are a really large diameter, ...

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Avoiding a "ding-dong" when lead belaying in the gym?
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13 votes

The simplest and most straightforward solution would be to connect yourself to a ground anchor. If you decide to do this while belaying a lead climber, you might want to let the rope slide a little ...

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Why do big wall harnesses have two belay loops?
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10 votes

It's simply for organization sake. Aid climbing on big-walls involves lots of gear, and you'll very quickly realize how much of a mess your perfectly racked gear will become. With two belay loops ...

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How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?
5 votes

It's possible, even feasible, and I'll explain how to do so further down. I'd like first suggest that in the absence of a guide mode loop on your belay tube, your likely going to be better of using ...

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Belay with a broken arm
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8 votes

This is simply a Clove Hitch on the belay loop. It could be quite effective to use instead of a belay plate if you can only use one hand because it doesn't require you to hold either side of the rope -...

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Which is better, a single fisherman's knot or a double?
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11 votes

This is a great, and well thought out question! I'll try best as I can to answer as somebody that both climbs, guides, and teaches, but I worry that a correct answer doesn't exist, and at best it'll ...

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Should I be using Dyneema slings for lead climbing anchors?
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10 votes

See: Slings for anchoring and lanyard in rock climbing Different question, but but it contains a lot of the same releveant information for an answer to this one also; basically either one will work ...

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Slings for anchoring and lanyard in rock climbing
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12 votes

While both materials do have slightly different properties, either one will work in the scenario mentioned. In-fact, any sling with the UIAA stamp of approval will likely have a working strength of ...

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How much should my toes hurt in climbing shoes?
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14 votes

Your climbing shoes shouldn't hurt at all. Andrew Bisharat has a great article to read on the subject: http://eveningsends.com/climbing/climbing-shoes-tight/ In summary, here's what the article says:...

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Belay checklist?
10 votes

There are definitely some "checklist" mnemonics for new climbers, but no standard set. Even among the ACMG & AMGA, every guide and instructor might use something slightly different, or not use any ...

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How should I choose between setting up a Cordelette or an Equalette climbing anchor?
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12 votes

I've had to deal with this question a lot teaching anchor building. When people have asked in the past I normally suggest they use the anchor you are most comfortable setting up, as they will both ...

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Places to Find Rock Climbing Ball Holds
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4 votes

Rather than give you shopping advice, you can visit DPM's climbing hold review page, where they list and review more hold manufacturers than you probably knew existed. You could start there if you ...

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Climbing Kilimanjaro for a newbie
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15 votes

According to regulations in Tanzania, you can't climb Kilimanjaro without a guide. That means you will 100% be with somebody that understands the nature of acclimatization and has likely been up many ...

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What do the climbing terms "Redpoint", "Pinkpoint", "Flash" and "Onsight" mean?
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24 votes

The two terms specifically refer to the finer aesthetics of Lead Climbing, in which a climber will either create intermediate anchors using gear (referred to as traditional climbing), or will use the ...

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