- P for Pull
P for Pull
One hand holds the rope above belay device and the other below. During this step the hand above pulls down while at the same time the lower hand pulls the rope through the belay device.
One hand holds the rope above belay device and the other below. During this step the hand above pulls down while at the same time the lower hand pulls the rope through the belay device.
- B for Brake
B for Brake
During the above step, it is not always possible to keep the lower hand behind the braking plane, especially on lower angle climbs. During this step, you want to make certain that the lower hand is behind the braking plane.
During the above step, it is not always possible to keep the lower hand behind the braking plane, especially on lower angle climbs. During this step, you want to make certain that the lower hand is behind the braking plane.
- U for Under
U for Under
During this step, the upper hand reaches down, underneath of the lower hand to hold the rope in preparation of the next step, slide.
During this step, the upper hand reaches down, underneath of the lower hand to hold the rope in preparation of the next step, slide.
- S is for Slide
S is for Slide
During this step the upper hand holds the brake strand while the lower slides back up the rope in preparation to start the process over again.
During this step the upper hand holds the brake strand while the lower slides back up the rope in preparation to start the process over again.
After this the upper hand goes back to the top to restart.
Two things to note, people will say that this is safer than the slip-slap-slide method, and they are usually right, but you have to watch the braking plane.
Doing the PBUS style and yet having the lower/brake hand in front of the braking plane is dangerous as you have no friction.
DON'T DO THIS
The other thing is that while the PBUS method works really well for sport or indoor climbing when the climber is above at a steep angle, it gets harder and hard to keep the brake hand behind the braking plane when the angle is less steep or if you are belaying someone from below you.
That is why it is worth it to know both PBUS and the slip-slap-slide technique, especially if you are ever doing a body belay which basically mandates the slip-slap-slide technique.