Timeline for Why are climbing hangers/anchors that thin?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
22 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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| Jan 21, 2023 at 19:26 | comment | added | Andrestand | I know the safety margin makes this discussion pointless, but I guess these tests youtu.be/F1Fx9oR2_nU will have a different result if the diameter of the rods in those shackles were what you find in a hanger. Could such bending radius make shear stress dominant and brake the carabiner at that point instead in its strongest part? Is that expensive to manufacture duplas/pingos or similar? | |
| Jan 20, 2023 at 1:36 | comment | added | noah | Genuinely, why? Ropes and carabiners are totally different. Nobody is recommending you rap directly off the hangers. That's what rap rings and other specialized anchor gear is for. | |
| Jan 19, 2023 at 19:56 | comment | added | Andrestand | This adds to my concerns :D youtu.be/fcyrvyn6880 | |
| Oct 29, 2022 at 3:00 | history | tweeted | twitter.com/StackOutdoors/status/1586191276856287232 | ||
| Oct 27, 2022 at 18:37 | vote | accept | Andrestand | ||
| Oct 27, 2022 at 13:58 | comment | added | Jon Custer | Understanding and correctly evaluating mechanical stresses and failure modes is a well-honed art at this point in time. Those meet the UIAA standards. Should you wish to exceed those standards, fine, but likely you won't find many hangers that greatly exceed UIAA standards because, well, they don't have to. | |
| Oct 27, 2022 at 8:52 | comment | added | Manziel | Do we really have industry inertia here? I have some bolts mounted in the ceiling of my living room and the hangers are like 3-4mm thick. I have definitely seen thinner ones outdoors. So I think the market already provides thicker hangers if you prefer those for routes you want to develop | |
| Oct 26, 2022 at 20:04 | comment | added | DRF | @Andrestand I think you strongly underestimate how much the cost would go up if you made changes that would make the contact point wider while keeping appropriate safety properties and weight. If you look at the anchor now it is very low cost to make. You drill a couple of holes in a sheet of metal and bend it. You might than (or before) apply some extra steps to ensure strength but the creation is low cost. Any way to make the contact point thicker would mean either extra weight (thicker plate) or extra steps (thickening the contact point only. | |
| Oct 26, 2022 at 16:24 | comment | added | Andrestand | @Manziel thanks, I wonder about a possibly better balance of the trade-off provided my previous comments. I see a first problem is industry inertia, and other: that plates are usually abandonned, so who pays for them are not the only ones to benefit from/ wear and tear them. | |
| Oct 26, 2022 at 16:19 | comment | added | Andrestand | Considering my previous comment, @darren, the point is not better gear, is extending their lifetime/condition, independently of their quality and time on duty. I would say a cheap improvement in plates (larger contact area) would worth in terms of wear in connected gear. | |
| Oct 26, 2022 at 16:18 | comment | added | Andrestand | @blacksmith37 thanks. The question is more related to the effect on biners connected there. The plate applies an upwards force in a small surface area of the biner (high shear stress) and relatively far from the ends of its upper shaft, where the downwards force is exerted (high bending stress). | |
| Oct 26, 2022 at 8:09 | comment | added | Manziel | As always in climbing it is a trade-off. We use alu carabiners even though steel is much stronger. But alu is strong enough (about twice the expected load) and much lighter. Also the system is set up in a redundant way with anchors containing two bolts | |
| Oct 26, 2022 at 1:20 | history | became hot network question | |||
| Oct 25, 2022 at 21:29 | comment | added | blacksmith37 | Looks like a KN 26 mark on photo . The strength would be higher than that . However , i am old and got lost trying to convert fignewtons to psi. | |
| Oct 25, 2022 at 21:02 | comment | added | Darren | @Andrestand if you’re worried about carabiners bending or breaking you need to buy better carabiners! | |
| Oct 25, 2022 at 20:55 | comment | added | blacksmith37 | They are steel which is quite strong. The one shown is 316 L stainless which is no doubt cold worked ( aka strain hardened ). My first guess at strength would be yield of about 60.000 psi ( one square inch of metal would hold 60,000 pounds or 30 tons). The manufacture may tell you the strength or hardness tests would be close. A crude estimate of the strength would be the level of ferromagnetism. Annealed it would be very slightly or not magnetic, as it is hardened it becomes more magnetic ( but not near as magnetic as carbon steel. ). | |
| Oct 25, 2022 at 19:05 | answer | added | noah | timeline score: 27 | |
| Oct 25, 2022 at 17:56 | comment | added | Andrestand | I'm more concerned about the effect on carabiners hanging from them. The bending and cutting stress would be reduced, potentially extending these gear lifetime. | |
| Oct 25, 2022 at 17:54 | history | edited | Andrestand | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
added 68 characters in body
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| Oct 25, 2022 at 17:54 | comment | added | njzk2 | can you elaborate? what part of the anchor are you talking about? surely those parts are designed with specifications and are built to meet both strength and durability requirements, no? | |
| S Oct 25, 2022 at 17:18 | review | First questions | |||
| Oct 25, 2022 at 20:22 | |||||
| S Oct 25, 2022 at 17:18 | history | asked | Andrestand | CC BY-SA 4.0 |