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Charlie Brumbaugh
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I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climberredpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. 

Indoors, I flash V4 range climbsflash V4 range climbs but then work and work V5V5 and get one every few goes. I am focusing more on bouldering at the moment, so any tips or training schemes would be beneficial!

Additional Info: By V4, I mean the V difficulty grade of the climb. The V scale, and Font scale, explained here.

The 5.X scale is for rock climbing. It is also used as a difficulty grade, and is explained better here.

The terminology I used, including flash and redpoint, can be found online but there are many, many terms that have been used and become common. I found this is a good, simple explanation of the most common few without throwing 50+ at you in one read. Link here.

I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. Indoors, I flash V4 range climbs but then work and work V5 and get one every few goes. I am focusing more on bouldering at the moment, so any tips or training schemes would be beneficial!

Additional Info: By V4, I mean the V difficulty grade of the climb. The V scale, and Font scale, explained here.

The 5.X scale is for rock climbing. It is also used as a difficulty grade, and is explained better here.

The terminology I used, including flash and redpoint, can be found online but there are many, many terms that have been used and become common. I found this is a good, simple explanation of the most common few without throwing 50+ at you in one read. Link here.

I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. 

Indoors, I flash V4 range climbs but then work and work V5 and get one every few goes. I am focusing more on bouldering at the moment, so any tips or training schemes would be beneficial!

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Charlie Brumbaugh
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  • 433

I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. Indoors, I flash V4 range climbs but then work and work V5 and get one every few goes. I am focusing more on bouldering at the moment, so any tips or training schemes would be beneficial!

Additional Info: By V4, I mean the V difficulty grade of the climb. The V scale, and Font scale, explained here.

The 5.X scale is for rock climbing. It is also used as a difficulty grade, and is explained better here.

The terminology I used, including flash and redpoint, can be found online but there are many, many terms that have been used and become common. I found this is a good, simple explanation of the most common few without throwing 50+ at you in one read. Link here.

I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. Indoors, I flash V4 range climbs but then work and work V5 and get one every few goes. I am focusing more on bouldering at the moment, so any tips or training schemes would be beneficial!

Additional Info: By V4, I mean the V difficulty grade of the climb. The V scale, and Font scale, explained here.

The 5.X scale is for rock climbing. It is also used as a difficulty grade, and is explained better here.

The terminology I used, including flash and redpoint, can be found online but there are many, many terms that have been used and become common. I found this is a good, simple explanation of the most common few without throwing 50+ at you in one read. Link here.

I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. Indoors, I flash V4 range climbs but then work and work V5 and get one every few goes. I am focusing more on bouldering at the moment, so any tips or training schemes would be beneficial!

Additional Info: By V4, I mean the V difficulty grade of the climb. The V scale, and Font scale, explained here.

The 5.X scale is for rock climbing. It is also used as a difficulty grade, and is explained better here.

The terminology I used, including flash and redpoint, can be found online but there are many, many terms that have been used and become common. I found this is a good, simple explanation of the most common few without throwing 50+ at you in one read. Link here.

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Fixed title to include context for specific terms like "V4". That's all that would have been required.
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Olin Lathrop
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How to progress in rock climbing after grades v4 / 5.11+?

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Ice76
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Ice76
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