5

The Pinch is a recently released brake-assisted belay device. What differentiates it from other Grigri-style devices, is the ability to directly clip this into the harness. Edelrid is marketing this as a gain of safety by removing one element of the safety chain. However, for those devices the carabiner also prevents accidental opening of the device (it also would, when using the Pinch with a carabiner). To open the device, a button on the side has to be pushed. For me, this introduces the new risk of the device accidentally opening, which would disconnect the climber and belayer and would likely be fatal.

Does anyone have first-hand experience or a test on this risk?

enter image description here

Improve this question
7
  • 1
    Watching the videos again, it looks like because of the way the two halves meet, if it was under load it doesn't look like you'd be able to release it anyway as the belay loop itself would stop it opening.
    – Darren
    Commented Feb 26 at 9:22
  • 1
    The rope work video shows this better than the climbing video. However, I can still imagine someone touching this in a strange way and unlocking it. The big question is whether this will also allow accidental opening.
    – Manziel
    Commented Feb 26 at 16:30
  • 1
    Load sharing visualized: youtube.com/watch?v=hpBRguSAJM4&t=1158s
    – noah
    Commented Feb 29 at 20:05
  • 1
    @noah Is that really a 40 minute video just talking about this one device? 🤨
    – Darren
    Commented Feb 29 at 22:55
  • 1
    @noah Thanks a lot. It is interesting that they considered the 3-way-movement but did not implement it in the final version. Still, I am a bit skeptical, as we have seen Murphy's law so oft in climbing accidents. The whole mechanism of load sharing seems to rely on the assumption that the device never comes slack.
    – Manziel
    Commented Mar 1 at 19:16

1 Answer 1

Reset to default
4

Can this device open while you're belaying? Yes. There is nothing that locks the system shut (unless you choose to use a carabiner in which case it works like any other mechanical brake assist belay device).

As has been mentioned above, the 'load sharing' tab on the faceplate of the pinch helps ensure the device stays closed, such that if the faceplate were unlocked, it would require a significant amount of force for the plate to then swing open, while it's loaded by the belay loop. enter image description here

Additionally, taking a look at the design of the button, it's not simply something depressed inwards, but a pivot, it's the top of the button just under the lip of the sideplate which needs to be pressed (with some force), but at the same time, there can't be anything pushing against the bottom of that button, as this will prevent operation.

enter image description here

Lastly, of course, the faceplate opens upwards, against the direction of gravity, and if the scratches on my various belay devices are to be believed, against the direction that the faceplate of such devices generally experience outside forces.

This belay device certainly can be opened while belaying. I do not believe there's a realistic scenario in which this will happen accidentally.

Improve this answer

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.