18 votes

Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

Every time a climber finds a way to place more fingers on a hold, he/she will. If he/she is not using all fingers, it's because: They're training their fingers to get stronger, It's impossible to ...
QuantumBrick's user avatar
  • 3,379
15 votes
Accepted

Does "Sport Climbing" refer to bolted climbing outdoors only or both indoors and outdoors

You (arguably) are right. I would even approach it the other way around: Should there be another description for outdoor lead climbing on bolted routes. "Proof": Climbing on artificial holds has ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
12 votes

Bouldering, improving and getting up grades

Fall More. If you're not falling a lot, then you're not pushing yourself enough, ergo you won't see much improvement. Grasping a basic understanding of proper climbing technique is what enables most ...
ShemSeger's user avatar
  • 53.6k
12 votes
Accepted

How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope

I am sure there is no simple formula to add everything up as the load of a high factor fall is not increasing linearly. There have been experiments conducted by Pit Schubert in which he tested a rope ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,225
11 votes
Accepted

How do I know when to retire a climbing harness?

When it's beyond the lifetime recommended by the manufacturer. When you see abrasion or damage that is more than superficial on any of the load-bearing components. This means you have to inspect your ...
Michael Borgwardt's user avatar
11 votes

Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

I think it is easiest to understand if you think about a small pocket where you can fit a single finger in deeply and securely or jam two fingers in poorly. While it is always nice to distribute the ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
11 votes
Accepted

Jelly Knees while climbing

Most likely this is not a problem of physical power or endurance. A moderately active person should have sufficiently trained legs for climbing. This is especially true for the beginner end of the ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,225
10 votes
Accepted

What kind of ropes are used for very long sport routes (like Chilam Balam)?

I don't know what makes you think climbing ropes are limited at 80m. They are produced in one very long strand and then cut to the sizes you find in the store. I agree 80m is the max for what is ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
10 votes

How is an attempt defined in sport climbing?

If you start a route, fall, lower down a bit, and then climb to the top, most people would not say that you have sent the route. See What is the term for completing a climbing route uncleanly?. Most ...
StrongBad's user avatar
  • 10.7k
10 votes

What counts as on- or off-route while outdoor climbing?

This is a well-known problem, escpecially on sport routes that have been bolted on rappel and have a bolt placed every like 2m in a straight line. The only real solution is to ask someone involved in ...
Manziel's user avatar
  • 7,225
9 votes
Accepted

What is the minimum grade of the routes set in the IFSC world cups?

Regarding Grading That's a very common question for people new to competition climbing. Route setting for competition is in general quite different than for "regular" gym routes. Route setters at ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
9 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

As other people already have mentioned here. In general, it is a disadvantage to be tall. If you look at height-performance profiles in rock climbing, they are generally downward-sloping (meaning the ...
Arne's user avatar
  • 401
9 votes

Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?

I've been thinking if it is possible to achieve anything (worthy of mention) for someone who started at [36] Lee Sheftel started climbing at 33, climbed 5.14a at 59 and 5.13b at 68 Margarita Martinez ...
endolith's user avatar
  • 928
8 votes
Accepted

Lead climb weight ratios

A 2/3 weight ratio is definitely at the absolut top of what is routinely manageable for lead climbing, and I would not recommend that for novices. Additional weights are an option, but 10 pounds will ...
Michael Borgwardt's user avatar
8 votes
Accepted

Rock climbing grading theory

The theory is that (sport) grades should reflect the technical skill, strength and stamina required to redpoint the route. Therefore the definition of, say a 8a route is that "a climber that ...
Guran's user avatar
  • 1,972
8 votes
Accepted

What safety concerns are there about automatic belay machines?

Regarding your own safety: Attachment: Do actually use and clip into the auto-belay system. It sounds ridiculous, but according to @Guran did happen, and it's not that hard to imagine. In many gyms ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
8 votes
Accepted

Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?

Retire that sling. Use it for some handicraft work at home or similar. Firstly: If in doubt about a piece of gear, don't entrust your live to it. Doing a more detailed analysis without seeing it in ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.8k
7 votes

Rock climbing grading theory

There are many aspects to a climbing route's difficulty, so it is fundamentally questionable to lump it all into one number, and is really only accepted because most climbers don't have a huge ...
Michael Borgwardt's user avatar
7 votes

Does "Sport Climbing" refer to bolted climbing outdoors only or both indoors and outdoors

It is more about style than routes. The term "Sport climbing" generally (traditionally) refers to climbing (routes longer than boulder problems) in such a way that the climber only have to focus on ...
Guran's user avatar
  • 1,972
7 votes

What's the easiest way of improving my strength without a large investment of time?

What you really want to do is "repeatedly" train in Bodyweight / Calisthenics/ Gymnastics/ Acrobatic oriented muscle chain & neural pathways, across varied planes & directions of motion; ...
Alex S's user avatar
  • 368
7 votes

What's the easiest way of improving my strength without a large investment of time?

This depends on the person of course, but yes, any type of extra exercise which is sufficiently long would be beneficial. And 20min of fingerboard might just do the trick. Especially with climbing ...
stijn's user avatar
  • 871
7 votes

Avoiding a "ding-dong" when lead belaying in the gym?

There are devices exactly for this scenario. For example Edeldrid has the "Ohm Assisted Braking Device" in their product range: https://www.rei.com/product/117728/edelrid-ohm-assisted-braking-device ...
Kendra's user avatar
  • 71
7 votes
Accepted

Best uses for a twist-lock carabiner

Nobody ever complained of having too many carabiners; you did not waste your money no matter what you do with it right now. Clip it to a stopper knot on the end of your reserve/back-up rope, or use it ...
Jimmy Fix-it's user avatar
7 votes
Accepted

How do I know the local ettiquete on lowering vs. rappeling?

As you should have seen in the answer there, you can first check the guidebook(s) to see if they mention anything. Another resource is The Mountain Project where you may get an answer, either by ...
fyrepenguin's user avatar
  • 2,530
6 votes

Lead climb weight ratios

While having a belayer that is much lighter than the climber is clearly not ideal, especially on lead, it isn't insurmountable. A famous climbing couple from days of yore was comprised of Lynn Hill ...
Erik's user avatar
  • 9,668
6 votes
Accepted

When, how and by whom was sport climbing invented?

As far as I know, the "change of paradigm" that led to the birth of sport climbing happened between the 70s and the 80s, and it happened separately in Europe and in the United States. From ...
valerio's user avatar
  • 907
6 votes

Influence of little finger length on climbing performance

I did not look whether such a study exist, but I want to reason why it's futile to conduct such a study. Rock climbing performance depends way less on finger strength than most people assume (...
Toto's user avatar
  • 61
6 votes
Accepted

Why is it considered good practice to not remain attached to just a Personal Anchor System?

In general, redundancy is key. Second, it is critical to retain the rope at the top of the climb. If the rope falls with the climber anchored to the top, you're going to be in for one heck of a time....
fyrepenguin's user avatar
  • 2,530
5 votes

What kind of ropes are used for very long sport routes (like Chilam Balam)?

As discussed in other answers, the easiest option would be to just have a custom rope and then everything works as you would expect. In a similar pro-climber vein, don't discount using rigging from ...
erfink's user avatar
  • 4,198

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