17 votes

Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

Every time a climber finds a way to place more fingers on a hold, he/she will. If he/she is not using all fingers, it's because: They're training their fingers to get stronger, It's impossible to ...
  • 3,313
16 votes
Accepted

What to do when you run out of rope on a sports climb?

Whether you run out of rope or just can't complete the route, you have to bail as safely as possible. As soon as your belayer reaches the rope's middle mark, he should double check that there's a ...
  • 7,160
15 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

I am not a very good climber as such, and I am 5'7" only. I think I am dwarf enough to put in my experiences here: As you rightly said, being short can be very frustrating when you don't get to access ...
  • 31.5k
15 votes
Accepted

Does "Sport Climbing" refer to bolted climbing outdoors only or both indoors and outdoors

You (arguably) are right. I would even approach it the other way around: Should there be another description for outdoor lead climbing on bolted routes. "Proof": Climbing on artificial holds has ...
  • 21.6k
13 votes
Accepted

Avoiding a "ding-dong" when lead belaying in the gym?

The simplest and most straightforward solution would be to connect yourself to a ground anchor. If you decide to do this while belaying a lead climber, you might want to let the rope slide a little ...
  • 2,702
13 votes

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?

The best single tip I got when I started bouldering (especially overhangs) is If you are reaching for the next hold with your right hand, keep most of the weight on your right foot. If you are ...
  • 231
12 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

As a girl 167cm tall (5'7") I'm on a shorter side of climbers spectra. I believe that while sometimes not being able to reach a hold can mean a no-go on a route, there is plenty of situations where ...
  • 890
12 votes

Bouldering, improving and getting up grades

Fall More. If you're not falling a lot, then you're not pushing yourself enough, ergo you won't see much improvement. Grasping a basic understanding of proper climbing technique is what enables most ...
  • 53.2k
12 votes
Accepted

How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope

I am sure there is no simple formula to add everything up as the load of a high factor fall is not increasing linearly. There have been experiments conducted by Pit Schubert in which he tested a rope ...
  • 6,465
11 votes
Accepted

How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?

Here are some features to keep in mind when buying climbing shoes once you're past the beginner phase: Downturned: Most beginner shoes are pretty flat, which are fine for mainly vertical walls. ...
  • 3,603
11 votes
Accepted

How do I know when to retire a climbing harness?

When it's beyond the lifetime recommended by the manufacturer. When you see abrasion or damage that is more than superficial on any of the load-bearing components. This means you have to inspect your ...
11 votes

Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

I think it is easiest to understand if you think about a small pocket where you can fit a single finger in deeply and securely or jam two fingers in poorly. While it is always nice to distribute the ...
  • 10.6k
11 votes
Accepted

Jelly Knees while climbing

Most likely this is not a problem of physical power or endurance. A moderately active person should have sufficiently trained legs for climbing. This is especially true for the beginner end of the ...
  • 6,465
10 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

Not much advantage being a short climber to be honest.I'm probably the shortest around, I'm 5'1" male @ 120lbs and getting stronger in my mid 30's. I can solve most problems, but not all reachy ...
  • 101
10 votes
Accepted

What kind of ropes are used for very long sport routes (like Chilam Balam)?

I don't know what makes you think climbing ropes are limited at 80m. They are produced in one very long strand and then cut to the sizes you find in the store. I agree 80m is the max for what is ...
  • 21.6k
10 votes

How is an attempt defined in sport climbing?

If you start a route, fall, lower down a bit, and then climb to the top, most people would not say that you have sent the route. See What is the term for completing a climbing route uncleanly?. Most ...
  • 10.6k
10 votes

What counts as on- or off-route while outdoor climbing?

This is a well-known problem, escpecially on sport routes that have been bolted on rappel and have a bolt placed every like 2m in a straight line. The only real solution is to ask someone involved in ...
  • 6,465
9 votes
Accepted

What is the minimum grade of the routes set in the IFSC world cups?

Regarding Grading That's a very common question for people new to competition climbing. Route setting for competition is in general quite different than for "regular" gym routes. Route setters at ...
  • 21.6k
9 votes
Accepted

Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?

Retire that sling. Use it for some handicraft work at home or similar. Firstly: If in doubt about a piece of gear, don't entrust your live to it. Doing a more detailed analysis without seeing it in ...
  • 21.6k
9 votes

Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?

I've been thinking if it is possible to achieve anything (worthy of mention) for someone who started at [36] Lee Sheftel started climbing at 33, climbed 5.14a at 59 and 5.13b at 68 Margarita Martinez ...
  • 762
8 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

As other people already have mentioned here. In general, it is a disadvantage to be tall. If you look at height-performance profiles in rock climbing, they are generally downward-sloping (meaning the ...
  • 391
8 votes

What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

Okay, I'm 5'4" and female. I have small hands and feet, and am very flexible. For my fellow short people, the best advice I got is from this very helpful website from Tiffany: Tiffany's Climbing Tips ...
  • 81
8 votes

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?

Firstly, warm up neatly, and Try to move through the overhang. Visualize the moves and flow through them. If you stop it's hard to get moving again. Use your whole body. It's easy to get good hands ...
  • 31.5k
8 votes

How to go about replacing sport climbing bolts?

I'm guessing from how you phrased your question that you are really interested in how rebolting, specifically bolt removal, is performed. I have never rebolted anything, but the ASCA (American Safe ...
  • 3,603
8 votes

Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?

This, probably more than any issue in climbing, has generated more discussion, heated debates, and vitriol (especially on the internet) than any other issue in climbing. Both sides (lower vs. rappel) ...
  • 6,769
8 votes
Accepted

Lead climb weight ratios

A 2/3 weight ratio is definitely at the absolut top of what is routinely manageable for lead climbing, and I would not recommend that for novices. Additional weights are an option, but 10 pounds will ...

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